jining

iTrader: (7)

Well my friends... I think its about time to take the plunge and build my bottom end, because sitting 9psi or so on this stock block feels like a ticking time bomb Its not even about getting more power, (although thats a bonus) my current 400rwhp is probably more then enough until I learn to drive better, but every time I boost I hate anticipating that something will break :P

I didnt plan on dropping this kind of money so soon, so im trying to keep this as somewhat of a budget build. Probably dont need cams, will do that later. What kind of power can the stock heads handle? Anyways, here it is:

Please feel free to comment on my build:

Pauter rods (purchased used) - $437
Pistons(maybe cp but undecided)
ARP L19 Head Studs - $449
ARP Main Studs - $195
350Z Engine Rebuild Gasket Kit - $229
HKS Head Gasket - $329
Cosworth Main/Thrust/Rod Bearings -$248
Rev-up Oil Pump - $250
Water Pump- $80
Timing Chain - $108
Cam Chain - $36
Rear main oil seal - $30 <---- Do I need to replace?

Total: ~$3500 bucks, about the most I want to spend for parts. Looks like I will be buying from Sharif since it seems almost all of this stuff is on the website.

What do you estimate labor should cost? About 2k or so?

Thanks again guys as always, dont know what I would do with the FI forum

Aaron

Julian@MRC

iTrader: (28)

We sell most of the parts also FYI, just not all listed on our site.
Your going a bit overkill on the pistons and underkil on the rods IMHO...
We use alot of CP or Weisco on most of our builds,and Pauter or Crower rods.

jining

iTrader: (7)

Edit: Purchased some used Pauters for a great price.

Now for pistons...

Quite honestly I want to do this right the first time, but at the same time I want the most cost effective route, if possible, without sacrificing too much. I need to take this baby to the track and learn to drive it properly, so power is not too big of a deal as of now. Reliability is though.

Thanks for your help.

Zivman

iTrader: (19)

The eagles are plenty strong and would not doubt them for a second. They have a very strong reputation and I have yet to see a person break one. I think the money is better spent on the pistons. Definitely get the ED pistons. having done two builds now, I really regret not putting cams in my first setup. Spend the extra money and get a set of cams and shims/springs.

Aaron, if you already bought the pauters and they are used, make sure you get them mag'd to ensure they are good before doing the build. You do need to replace the rear seal on your build. Find better pricing on your rev-up oil pump... I just did my build with one and I payed at least 100 bucks less than you listed.

Pay particular attention to your crank and sizing your bearings. If your crank sizing is not very uniform, considering buying a brand new crank. My fear on these motor builds is incorrect bearing sizing which leads to thrown bearings

edit:
in terms of labor, I think if you got the motor pull, motor tear down, machine work, assembly, and install of the motor for 2K, you are doing VERY well. I would figure at least another grand for labor, if not more, to get you up and running

XKR

iTrader: (1)

Julian..What you trying to say about Eagle Rods

rcdash

iTrader: (18)

Everyone has their preference for parts - discussed many times before. Honestly, I've not heard of many aftermarket engine build parts failing... esp at 400 whp.

Julian@MRC

iTrader: (28)

I am saying i generally dont use them,unless requested by a customer.Not trying to start a flame war here, just my opinion,so nock it off with the flamey faces.
We have our preference of parts as do other shops/builders..

thawk408

iTrader: (16)

Your using water injection and 9psi on a stock block and your worried? I wouldnt even bat an eye.

Your list seems good, but overkill IMHO.

The rear main is included with the engine rebuild kit. I would let your machine shops polish your crank and then spec you some bearings. The arias ED are very good pistons, but CP or Wiseco are still a very good piston and will hold up to any powerlevel your going to throw at them and will be about half as much. The eagle rods are very good rods and you shouldnt worry about them.

rr_z33

iTrader: (2)

just buy a preassembled bottom end from a vendor here. youll honestly end up saving a lot of money going that way. trust me from experience

Zivman

iTrader: (19)

That might be the case, but then he will need to find/do labor to assemble the long block. If you have that figured out, then yes, buying a shortblock is a good option

jining

iTrader: (7)

I think I will look into the cp pistons instead of the arias... I think I will slowly piece together this build, as opposed to buying a shortblock preassembled. Just out of curiosity, how much labor is required(dollar wise) to swap in a prebuilt shortblock?

rr_z33

iTrader: (2)

my friends shop charges 2g just for dropping a motor. although labor prices in hawaii are a lot more than the mainland. that still should give you a good idea of labor prices. i currently am running cp pistons as well. heres a link to my build https://my350z.com/forum/pacific/323521-the-build.html

DanielW

iTrader: (27)

so it looks like this guy is probably looking at $6500-$7000 to have a motor removed, built, and reinstalled. I've seen prices on built shortblocks but how much are people usually paying "turn key" for a built shortblock with install?

GTM

iTrader: (12)

Usually a built short block, with installation, will run about 9200.00, http://gtmotorsports.test.gatesix.co...cat=459&page=1
this is from start to finish. "Turn-key" setup as DanielW would describe it.

Hope this helps,

-George
GT Motorsports

failsafe306

iTrader: (38)

Whatever you do, don't try to put it together yourself

athenG

iTrader: (2)

What if you already have a Revup Engine?

athenG

iTrader: (2)

Why not just go buy a built short block from IPP? Price will be cheaper even upgrading some of the parts. https://my350z.com/forum/engine/289359-ipp-engine-packages-at-great-prices-1-yr-warranty-and-new-lower-core-charges.html His Stage I is enough to handle your 400whp.

GTM

iTrader: (12)

Same price

-George
GT Motorsports

Zivman

iTrader: (19)

Your prices are high.... For about the same money I could do a complete long block with cams and springs/shims; which would also include HKS gaskets, L19 studs, and new oil and water pumps for reference. I know prices are relative to location, but I put my complete long block together and installed in the car for about 1300 less than your 9200 quote

QuadCam

iTrader: (8)

let's not make this about who has better pricing on built blocks!