I literally laughed out loud!

*On a side note, all will turn out well and unfortunately I know how you feel.

 

at least they are nice lol...do they have that steam function? that ***** badass for dress shirts...

 

OMG...It scares me that someone else knows that, but yes, the dryer has the steam function.

 

tv man...tv..lol. ive heard that it kills wrinkles in dress shirts so im interested...i hate ironing lol.

 

moms got those, there nice, dont know if id drop that type of money for the steam feature since a damp towel will achieve the same results BUT it does kill bacteria and stuff. used it to blast a comforter my cat pissed on once

 

OK, back OT. When I met Karl to get the clutch he brought along a few other goodies that caught my eye. He must be some kind of salesman at his job, cause next thing I know, I'm grabbing more cash and setting up another meet. Karl hooked me up like a champ!!

• Quaife ATB Limited Slip Differential w/ Lifetime Warranty Selling Price = $1695
• 3.357 Gears Conversion (2003 G35 AT Differential) $0 - Pumpkin included w/ LSD



• Aquamist HFS-5 Methanol Injection System Selling Price = $750
• Snow 7Qt Reservoir + Boost Juice (49% Meth & 51% Water) $0 Included w/ Meth Kit



Fequent Buyer Cash Pricing - $2000

I did a lot of research on both of these products including checking with forum members. The Quaife is rock solid and should help with both straight line acceleration and cornering, plus the 3.3 taller gears will let me make the most out of my top end power with a higher redline and the cams (whatever they are).
The HFS-5 is IMO simply the best meth system on the market. Considering I was able to grab it for a price comparable to many of the other systems on the market, I just could not pass it up.

Again I must say how great a guy Karl is and that he must have had one of the fastest sleeper G's on the forum. His build was top notch from start to finish with no details overlooked. Please check out his sale threads, you will not be disappointed. If F:T tuned f-con, it would waiting for install with everything else.

 

looks like a budget be damned build! sweet, you'll surely hit your hp target! the headwork is 1/3 the price of built longblock with cams from IPP!

 

Nice laundry machines I have to throw the odd bribe the bosses way to keep me in car parts. I hate to see things like this happen I hope that buddy gets his one day. for staying cool and positive I hope all is well for you in the end.

 

[QUOTE=Cass007;6609895]Just remember....this is all your fault.

LOL You'll thank me when its done haha. And I'll be sad cuz im not as fast then lol. Good luck on all this though man. Hit me up sometime when your free also. Gotta catch up.

 

So while the wife was cooking this morning I decided to attempt my very first DIY project, removal of the front bumper and headlights. Armed with my wireless internet connection and laptop it was off to the garage to cause some mayhem.

The front bumper needs to be removed since a soccer mom backed into me trying to parallel park when I was picking my son up at school.



Its hard to see here, bet there are some scratches and a slight dimple from her bumper. Gotta love the fact that she got out of her Cherokee after she hit me and said "was that your car I bumped into?" The guy State Farm sent out for an estimate was a car guy and said the whole bumper should just be replaced...BONUS!! I decided to trade up for this:



Its a Stillen Series2 front bumper w/o the splitter. I'm not sure on the splitter yet, but liked this design and the two side inlets for better air flow for my air intakes. Once its on I will make a decision on the splitter. Total check from State Farm - $442.50. Total cost from Stillen (they are having a great sale now + an addition 5% off for the next few days) - $441.10. Cost to me $0. Granted I will have paint expense down the road.

The headlights were removed and being packaged for shipment to Nic@CiNcity designs this week. I will have a full post on these when they get back - 3-4 weeks. https://my350z.com/forum/lighting/37...-sti-more.html or www.cincitydesigns.com

 

I got the car up on jack stands, but I will need a taller jack in order to get the tops on the stands in the future. I used this thread to learn how:

https://my350z.com/forum/maintenance...ck-stands.html

https://my350z.com/forum/attachments...d_location.jpg

And this thread to learn how to remove the front bumper and front wheel wells. Tip for other noobs - the clips pull out by hand, if they don't, you have pulled the tops too far up - I broke two of them before I figured it out.

https://my350z.com/forum/body-interi...ss-06-ccs.html



My brother-in-law was supposed to help, but bailed on me so I had to go with my backup assistant. She's not very technical, but is always around when I need help.



And now for some holiday trivia. Who knows what these are????



Here is a hint:



Good luck guessing - sorry, no prizes for the winners.

 

too bad u didnt get the paint included from the insurance as it will most likely cost more than the bumper itself. Also, get your side skirt and rear bumper before you paint and do it all at once. saves lots of money.

 

I wanted to see if the Stillen front sits lower than the stock piece first.

 

I guess APS turbo kit??

 

New Seats

 

Only two guesses so far

 

BBK (in a very oversized box)?

 

Parts are coming in this week from the various shops that had them and assembly should begin hopefully next week. Most of the build is the same, but there are a few changes:

Engine is VQ35DE use for 100 miles. - 0 miles now

- Arias Low Compression Piston Overbore 0.020 over - 8.5:1 compression
- Ferrea Heavy Duty Valve Springs
- Ferrea Titanium Retainers
- Ferrea Valve Spring Locators
- Ferrea Valve Locks
- Tomei Connecting Rod
- Rev-Up Oil Pump
- Tomei Camshaft
- HKS Metal Head Gasket - Using the HR stock gaskets
- Solid Motor Mount - undecided and looking for input
- Unorthodox Pulley - swapped for a Fluidampr & stock pulleys
- JWT Oil Pan Spacer - not needed & FOR SALE
- ARP L19 Head and Main stud kit.
- Greddy L7 Spark Plugs - NGK 1 step colder
- Ingalls Engine Damper - Do I need this if I use the Solid Mounts

Other things include:
Block inspected and cleaned
Block redecked
Block Bored and Honed using a Torque Plate - Block Line Honed as well
Rotating assembly balanced
Crank magnafluxed and the journals micro-polished
Cosworth main bearings installed
Cosworth rod bearings installed
Heads inspected and cleaned
Heads redecked
Ported exhaust and intake runners
3 angle valve job - 5 angle job from Head Games
New OEM Valve stem seals installed
Valve Stem Heights set

Some things already installed or waiting for install:
650cc DW (Denso) injectors
Function:Tuned custom fuel return system
Quaife rear diff w/ 3.3 gears
Aquamist HSF-5 Meth Kit
Walbro 255 fuel pump

Special thanks to Joe Kenefic (jkenefic) for taking time to give me feedback and guidence on using the HR stock gaskets instead of HKS, even with the L19 head studs. I would be interested to know if anyone else is using this combination.

Looking for opinions/feedback from members that are using solid motor mounts. I have read different things in threads, both good and bad, but I am still undecided. Also, do I need the motor damper if I use the solid motor mounts?

 

Looks like its coming right along....

 

I needed a few more parts for the motor prior to assembly and of course they come from forum vendors. I tried to search as many vendors as possible to find the best prices, but these may not be the absolute best:

Nismo Low Temp Thermostat - Import Parts Pro - $127.52 shipped
http://www.importpartspro.com/nilowtethkit.html



Pathfinder Cooling Mod - Z1 Motorsports - $211.38 shipped
http://www.z1motorsports.com/350_g35...oducts_id=3011



Both Kyle and Bryan had great customer service and provided tracking #'s as soon as the products were shipped. Kyle sent a nice follow up letter as well asking for feedback and making sure everything was right.