Best question to you would be. If the price is right and you want to take the gamble... If they fail do you have the money to replace the turbos, labor, other car..... etc. Is the gamble worth it? You need to weigh that out, but starting out with potencially damaged turbos seems like going into a gun fight **** drunk.

 

HAHA Nicely put! Well even if the turbos fail, I do have another vehicle to use. The car seems very well put together and with 15k on the clock being Turbo'd Id say that rules out a bad build. The car seems to have been built with the "no expense spared" attitude since all the components are of the higher quality. i hope to hear from him soon on what the shop said....Im gettin excited!

 

dug this up......

straight from Garrett:


Oil & Water Plumbing

The intake and exhaust plumbing often receives the focus leaving the oil and water plumbing neglected.

Garrett ball bearing turbochargers require less oil than journal bearing turbos. Therefore an oil inlet restrictor is recommended if you have oil pressure over about 60 psig. The oil outlet should be plumbed to the oil pan above the oil level (for wet sump systems). Since the oil drain is gravity fed, it is important that the oil outlet points downward, and that the drain tube does not become horizontal or go “uphill” at any point.

Following a hot shutdown of a turbocharger, heat soak begins. This means that the heat in the head, exhaust manifold, and turbine housing finds it way to the turbo’s center housing, raising its temperature. These extreme temperatures in the center housing can result in oil coking.

To minimize the effects of heat soak-back, water-cooled center housings were introduced. These use coolant from the engine to act as a heat sink after engine shutdown, preventing the oil from coking. The water lines utilize a thermal siphon effect to reduce the peak heat soak-back temperature after key-off. The layout of the pipes should minimize peaks and troughs with the (cool) water inlet on the low side. To help this along, it is advantageous to tilt the turbocharger about 25° about the axis of shaft rotation.

Many Garrett turbos are water-cooled for enhanced durability.

 

this thread is pointless. The OP is dead set on buying the car regardless of what rational advice we offer.

/thread

 

I have taken all the advice given and thought about this very much. And I appreciate everyones input. Im glad to see both sides of the argument here. I have called MANY shops and even spoke directly to a JWT engineer. I wieghed my options and for me it makes sense to buy the car even if the turbo cartridge needs replacing ($1600 from JWT for both)

I wouldnt call the thread worthless, theres alot of good info here for anyone needing the information I needed.

 

search is your friend,you just have to talk nice to it and assure it that you mean no harm.think barry white not mike tyson and you'll be fine.....

https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...-turbos-2.html

 

I had read that post and others like it. The problem was that they are discussing a kit (PE) that was designed NOT using the water jackets on the turbo chargers. They are discussing modifying that particular kit. I want a specific answer to the JWT kit that was designed to use the water jackets. Although what they discuss in that thread does have good info and overall water jacket information, it didnt deal directly with the JWT 700bb kit.

Electrons are free.......relax and listen to "cant get enough of your love baby"

 

The post that "go-fast" made answers the question. 700bb (I use to have that Kit) is a garrett turbo....so one again that post applies!

 

So why would one company design their system with the water lines and one with out? Seems if the turbos are identical then there shouldnt be any diff. in their functionality(Cooling wise) Both kits were designed by top engineers, So what does that tell us?

 

Both the garrett and ihi turbos for the 700bb kit and PE kit respectively are designed with water cooling in mind. The fact that the PE kit did not supply the hardware to hook up the water is a reflection on PE deciding to favor lower cost versus reliability. As the thread above indicates, there were some negative consequences from that decision. Several folks hooked up the water lines on their own.

 

Ill buy that for a dollar. So basically PE was just being cheap. Im not arguing with anyone saying its better to have them hooked up. I agree whole heartedly that they should be. Im just wondering if you let the turbos cool off prior to engine shut down, will it affect bearing longevity drastically compared to the ones with the water hooked up. I know common sense says yes, but there are alot of folks running the PE kit without water lines, and they have been going for 30k miles plus with no probs.

 

You have two options for reliability.

1) Not use water lines and allow a cool-down time before shutting the car off by either letting it idle for a minute or so or by using a turbo timer.

2) Using water lines and not worry about cool-down times at all.

Both ways work fine, but option 1 is not for everyone ( including myself ) and thus the reason why water lines are "needed".