congrats on troubleshooting.

that's

 

 

you also have bank to bank injector trims on the Haltech. Use them.....

 

i heard there are these new Plasma coils out in japan


i think if found a pict

 

Noted, I'll mention that to the tuner if necessary.

 

So after 3 hours yesterday working with the tuner and GearHeinz they still could not get the car to function properly. The car seems to start on all 6 cylinders properly now so I guess this is a 2 part issue.

At idle the AFR is very similar however in throttle one bank goes very rich and progressively gets worse as more throttle is applied to the point that the car misfires. The other bank is going slightly lean but that may just be due to needing calibration. They tried increasing the fuel pressure, swapped spark plugs, replaced 2 coil packs, swapped which fuel rail gets fed first and everything looks like it should be working.

We pretty much ditched the Haltech and are trying to work with just Osiris from this point on. Car is being towed back to GearHeinz and he is going to start troubleshooting it.

 

. they think it could be something in the ecu?

 

how are you measuring your AFR?

Haltech solution and Uprev solution are not the same. Can you post pics of your bank to bank spark plugs?

One set shoulda been black the other set white.

 

When you switched which rail was being fed first, did the problem switch sides, or is it too hard to say?

Can you isolate the problem to specific RPMs or is it constant? I ask because I would like to determine if your car could possibly be one of the unfortunate cars that dislikes having the fuel dampers removed. When that occurs, it seems to be more or less severe from one car to another. But commonly there are specific RPMs where you will get some lean missfiring and bucking. It is most noticable when cruising or low load accelerating thru these unhappy RPMs... it doesnt seem to show up in full throttle runs as you fly past the "bad" RPMS quickly. No tuning seems to remedy.

 

Not likely because the issues occur even with the haltech in control

I believe the tuner was using the dual widebands from haltech as well as the OEM sensor as well as a sensor he places at the end of the exhaust.

When switched which rail was feeding first the issue did not swap banks and stayed with the same bank.

As far as specific rpms, all I know is that it started under light load and got worst as more throttle was applied. I'm not sure what rpm it begins at but I assume it is at a low rpm.

Phunk just fyi I am using the Cosworth Fuel Rail Kit coupled with a CJ Motorsports stage 0.

 

Idea 1: See if zeroing out the cam tables in osiris changes anything.

Idea 2: Put a rough tune on it (stock cam tables) and drive around for 20-30 miles light throttle see what codes pop up. You're probably not going to show useful codes on the dyno.

Idea 3: Swap ECU

 

if it did it with the haltech, its not the ecu.

 

try swapping the wideband sensors and wiring from side to side and see what happens.

 

Its not just the haltech widebands that are reporting the issue.

 

he didn't say JUST the haltech. Swap them both.

 

Just spoke with Shawn from Church and he said that the issue may be related to the oem sensors. Its possible that the sensor for bank 1 and bank 2 are crossed so that would be why when bank 1 goes lean bank 2 is going rich.

 

seriously? and these are professionals you are paying??...

I'd be more than disappointed and slightly less than enraged if that was really the issue.

Unless you did the wiring of course.

 

assuming that was true it would of been the fault of the original shop who did the install which I went to on a recommendation since they did some cool stuff with fabrication etc... and were considered the go to guys for the 300zx. GearHeinz's mechanic who does the tear downs labels everything is extremely **** so its possible when re-installed it was put back in the way it came out.

 

str8dum1 ive thrown so much money at this thing trying to get it to run properly that i would be happy just knowing it was something simple and easy to fix as that.

 

For your sake I hope it's something that simple but in reality reversed sensors would only affect closed loop which is idle and part throttle. Anything above -5psi vacuum or so would switch to open loop and your bank trims should come back together. Since you're seeing the opposite I think it's wishful thinking that o2's are related.

Pretty sad that you dump all this money at shops and they can't figure out something like this. Wish you were local here there's a couple shops that would have this nailed down without any of the runaround.