If you want to track your car and partial to the Nissan community and the nice folks attracted to the platform it's simple - buy a GTR. Nissan engineered the car to get the crap beat out of it right out of the box. I've had mine for a year now, 15 track days, airstrip, etc. Etc. Not one issue. In stock form it makes 400 at the wheel and will do over 150 in the back straight at road Atlanta and over 160 at vir. You can't beat the value. Just a basic over conservative tune gets you another 100hp although I don't know what I would do with it at the track, my skill level is below what the car has today )))

Edit: compared to my built g35 it also notable that all the temps on the gtr run considerably lower vs the built VQ35 I asked sharif once and he said the 3.8L block in the gtr is designed from the factory to dissipate more heat. I can tell a significant difference when beating on the gtr vs the built g35.

 

The reason a rod bearing fails is because of excessive friction with the crankshaft. Friction causes a rapid rise in heat. Therefore your bearing started "dragging" as it spun around the crankshaft and heated up itself and the rod that it's attached to.

 

what oil was being used in these motors that spun bearings? Mobile1?

 

whats wrong with mobil 1?. I run mobil 1 syn. 5w30. almost at 100K . been running it since 25K miles... but then again im not built, yet... still on the stock block and its a crap load of fun lol

 

Nothing wrong with mobil1 (5w40 turbo diesel according to my blackstone reports. In fact it performs a little better than the Motul I was using originally.

 

Shell Rotella T6 5w-40 FTMFW

 

Im not built but have been using 0w40 mobil 1 for over 70,000 miles and still not a problem......yet.I still boost it hard now and again but dont drive it much since its winter time and finally bought a beater to drive.

 

well, I can tell you I was just up getting my evo tuned at a local shop. I look behind the counter and they have a huge sign that reads:
"ONLY USE IF YOU WANT A SPUN BEARING" with a picture of a jug of 5w30 mobil1.

I proceed to ask, and the tuner said don't use it, seen too many cars come in and have issues that are completely related to that specific oil. examples. Supra spun a bearing on his dyno, honda's having issues with Vtec, and I know Forced Performance doesn't recommend it for their journal bearing turbos. There is plenty of chat about how poor of an oil mobil1 has become on evom. That was just further confirmed upon my trip to my local tuner

Links:
Don't use mobile 1, it will ruin your journal turbo
"Do you guys know that MOBILE 1 stopped using phosphates, the oil that we once knew is no longer the same, IT DOESN'T HAVE THE SAME QUALITY AS BEFORE.
STOP USING MOBILE 1"

Forced Performance Recommendations
"Mobil 1 used to be considered such oil[offering high pressure film strength], but it has been many years since it was
reformulated and “watered down” to accommodate OEM emissions and fuel efficiency requirements."

I personally run amsoil in my Z -> 5w40 and 10w40
and 10w40 in my Evo

 

For street use the mobile1 0-40 is fine per the oil analysis over on nagtroc. For extreme track use it shears quite a bit and quickly. I use it for daily driving and during the track season in use motul and I get an oil analysis each change.

The consensus I have read is mobil is a great factory fill option for sports cars that never see any hard use. You need something more prepared to the task. There is a member over on nagtroc that is mixing oils and doing analysis each change with track use, etc. It's pretty interesting the data he post!

I would not run my car hard with mobil1 in it and if I did it would be fresh oil and changed after the event.

 

Aaron, thanks for the links. The forced performance link actually has a real analysis behind it !!! Look how far we have come in these many years. We would have paid extra for APS to provide that info back in the day (lol),,, during the first APS kit installs

 

On my last build I was using Mobil1 0w40, but when the motor finally gave way I was on Mobil1 15w50. I will be going a different route this time around.

 

I'm running 15-50 Mobil 1 synthetic and have ~13K miles on the build.

These right ups about "don't use Mobile 1" appear to be conventional oil not Synthetic. How does Mobile 1 Synthetic stand up?

You guys are making me nervous

 

^ the way I see it is.. if its mobil 1, royal purple, amsoil etc etc... as long as they all are 5w30 and synthetic ( for ex ).. there all the same... I have put different brands of oil through out the years and they all have been synthetic 5w30... NA or FI... I could NOT tell the difference between switching to a different oil brand.. As long as you have the right weight of oil for your build you should be fine,imo.. I dont think a particular oil could damage your motor... other factors will come to play, like some have mentioned .... oil temp, oil level etc etc, that will kill your motor...

Cant just jump to a conclusion and say that this " oil brand " killed my motor.. There needs to be some hardcore evidence/proof to say this.

Theres always that one company that will say this oil is better than that oil... thats all advertisements to me.

Have some good gauges that will monitor your oil press, oil temp and just check your oil level every week and add oil if it needs it.. you should be fine.

 

hopefully you dont really believe that. You might not be able to tell the difference, but Blackstone Labs sure can.

 

+1 on this. I pulled a sample and sent it when the motor showed lower than normal pressure, but hadn't popped yet. Blackstone report said it showed signs of bearing fatigue and that failure was most likely happening soon. The next day it was done.

 

you are right.. when looking at things under a microscope, they look different but Has blackstone reported that mobil1 5w30 synthetic is different than other oil brands of the same weight? or that it is the cause of " spun bearings" ? if it has been proven and tested and all .. I mean i dont see why I wouldnt believe it.. I sure will change to a different oil if thats the case..but

..My take on it is that all these motors that spun bearings and are toast.. isnt because of a brand of oil.. more like a problem when it was put together.. or the owner just doesnt look out for minor things.. like checking your oil level.

 

Different oils produce different levels of bearing metals in the oil analysis - that's for sure. I've found better results with Mobil1 0W40 vs Mobil1 15W50 and Motul 300V. I'm not too happy with Eneous 0W50 either in terms of oil consumption - the sample is going to Blackstone this week. Going to Rotella T6 next and hopefully by reports that will be a keeper.

 

sorry for the dumb question, but why is it that everyone is using such a wide range of oil weights? Why is it necessary to use the higher weights

 

Thanks for the info. I have a theory about the G35 and 350z in the next 5 - 7 years the V8 swaps will be more common such as in the 240sx.

 

what kind of oil is everybody here running. i use castrol syntec/ and soon to be trying out amsoil. ran mobil 1 in the evo for a bit with no problems yet