Longevity of full builds, the good the bad
As for the 1/2" head stud comment on our builds. 1/2" head studs were commonly used on high hp builds early in this platform since ARP did not make the L19's for us. The standard ARP 1/2" studs would be used. The block can be machined to fit the 1/2" and some actually have the heads machined out a little to fit them but Charles from CJM actually installed stock heads on his 1/2" studs with no issues. I think he said he had to put the heads on first then drop the studs down through the heads before screwing them into the block.
the h11 unibolts i was talking about is a headstud and main stud in one. for the ecotecs they drill all the way through the block because the head bolt holes line up perfect with the main stud holes.
from there is a big *** h11 stud that goes all the way down and squeezes the whole engine togeather.
from there is a big *** h11 stud that goes all the way down and squeezes the whole engine togeather.
I know this is an old thread but looking at this head stud info made me want to comment. Most companies that make head studs will make custom sets if you ask them. yes a little more costly but in truth a custom set really isn't all THAT much more expensive.
As for the 1/2" head stud comment on our builds. 1/2" head studs were commonly used on high hp builds early in this platform since ARP did not make the L19's for us. The standard ARP 1/2" studs would be used. The block can be machined to fit the 1/2" and some actually have the heads machined out a little to fit them but Charles from CJM actually installed stock heads on his 1/2" studs with no issues. I think he said he had to put the heads on first then drop the studs down through the heads before screwing them into the block.
As for the 1/2" head stud comment on our builds. 1/2" head studs were commonly used on high hp builds early in this platform since ARP did not make the L19's for us. The standard ARP 1/2" studs would be used. The block can be machined to fit the 1/2" and some actually have the heads machined out a little to fit them but Charles from CJM actually installed stock heads on his 1/2" studs with no issues. I think he said he had to put the heads on first then drop the studs down through the heads before screwing them into the block.
dang, that's nuts.
I'm sure if you call the company they can custom machine what is needed. I think most of the 1000hp builds on the vq engine for track cars are using the L19's though. At most they might have 1/2" L19's. I don't remember hearing anyone with any special made head studs.
I'm sure if you call the company they can custom machine what is needed. I think most of the 1000hp builds on the vq engine for track cars are using the L19's though. At most they might have 1/2" L19's. I don't remember hearing anyone with any special made head studs.
yah a1 wanted like 2500 for a set of there h11 headstuds which is why i just went with the L19's im gona check and retorque em whenever i end up putting cams in the engine if i do.
edit: here we go a cutaway so you can see how well GM designed the ecotec(and why you have to add 200 lbs to your car in classes that can run a ecotec nhra and ihra feel the ecotec has a unfair advantage lol.)
edit: here we go a cutaway so you can see how well GM designed the ecotec(and why you have to add 200 lbs to your car in classes that can run a ecotec nhra and ihra feel the ecotec has a unfair advantage lol.)
Last edited by jerryd87; Sep 30, 2012 at 03:43 PM.
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 82
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From: saltlakecity
Engine #1 stock block with sts rear mount turbo
Lasted about 1500 miles.
My tuned didn't retighten bolts on compressor housing after clocking the turbo.
Lost seal, lost oil, lost engine.
Engine#2 ipp stage 2 long block . Just did an upgrade to the sts system with a precision 6265 turbo and a exa scavenge pump.
Lasted not even a day, probably about 75 miles. Engine failer due to oil starvation. Cause for this is unclear to me. He said/ she said....%@$!*
.
Engine #3 ipp stage 2 same engine rebuilt . Ditched the sts kit and bought a momentum top mount kit plus headers exhaust plenum spacer fuel return ct3794r turbo blah lbah the whole nine yards.
Engine lasted like 4 or 5 hundred miles . Engine had two miss matched spark plugs installed causing detonation on one piston and a lean condition on the other.
Engine #4 currently being rebuilt by ipp.
Lasted about 1500 miles.
My tuned didn't retighten bolts on compressor housing after clocking the turbo.
Lost seal, lost oil, lost engine.
Engine#2 ipp stage 2 long block . Just did an upgrade to the sts system with a precision 6265 turbo and a exa scavenge pump.
Lasted not even a day, probably about 75 miles. Engine failer due to oil starvation. Cause for this is unclear to me. He said/ she said....%@$!*
.
Engine #3 ipp stage 2 same engine rebuilt . Ditched the sts kit and bought a momentum top mount kit plus headers exhaust plenum spacer fuel return ct3794r turbo blah lbah the whole nine yards.
Engine lasted like 4 or 5 hundred miles . Engine had two miss matched spark plugs installed causing detonation on one piston and a lean condition on the other.
Engine #4 currently being rebuilt by ipp.
I'm surprised people keep going back to the same engine builders after so many issues. Even if my 5 yr old tuned it a fully built motor shouldn't be failing multiple times during break in.
Last edited by djamps; Oct 13, 2012 at 07:09 AM.
stock block HR with gtm stage 2 kit. made 550 whp 490 tq lasted 3400 miles until i filled up with "premium" which turned out to be disel because the fueling station had filled up the wrong tanks. and fried my piston rings and valves.
built block round 1, darton sleeves BC 4.07 stroker ported heads. machinist didnt deck and headgasket ended up blowing out after 1800 miles.
built block round 2, same bottom end, and same heads with a deck and jwt cams and valve springs this time. going on 3k miles and 8 months with no issues (knock on wood)
652 582 whp/tq on 1 bar and pump gas.
built block round 1, darton sleeves BC 4.07 stroker ported heads. machinist didnt deck and headgasket ended up blowing out after 1800 miles.
built block round 2, same bottom end, and same heads with a deck and jwt cams and valve springs this time. going on 3k miles and 8 months with no issues (knock on wood)
652 582 whp/tq on 1 bar and pump gas.
stock block HR with gtm stage 2 kit. made 550 whp 490 tq lasted 3400 miles until i filled up with "premium" which turned out to be disel because the fueling station had filled up the wrong tanks. and fried my piston rings and valves.
built block round 1, darton sleeves BC 4.07 stroker ported heads. machinist didnt deck and headgasket ended up blowing out after 1800 miles.
built block round 2, same bottom end, and same heads with a deck and jwt cams and valve springs this time. going on 3k miles and 8 months with no issues (knock on wood)
652 582 whp/tq on 1 bar and pump gas.
built block round 1, darton sleeves BC 4.07 stroker ported heads. machinist didnt deck and headgasket ended up blowing out after 1800 miles.
built block round 2, same bottom end, and same heads with a deck and jwt cams and valve springs this time. going on 3k miles and 8 months with no issues (knock on wood)
652 582 whp/tq on 1 bar and pump gas.
NO.
Seriously NO.
Go to someone else who hasn't taken thousands of dollars and given you nothing worth while in return.
Call up dynosty (or any other reputable shop that WORKS WITH Zs and has BUILT FAST vqs, ie SP, Mazworx etc). Tell them you got shat on, and fork over the money you're about to burn with IPP. Get your money back from IPP. If they ask why you're bailing, tell them because their last two motors took a very expensive crap in your car. And if they don't want to give you your money back, tell them the Better Business Bureau, your lawyer and the internet say otherwise.
IPP has been bullishing around for too long giving people bad engines and transmissions. Bunk ish is bunk ish. Don't give em another dime.
Seriously NO.
Go to someone else who hasn't taken thousands of dollars and given you nothing worth while in return.
Call up dynosty (or any other reputable shop that WORKS WITH Zs and has BUILT FAST vqs, ie SP, Mazworx etc). Tell them you got shat on, and fork over the money you're about to burn with IPP. Get your money back from IPP. If they ask why you're bailing, tell them because their last two motors took a very expensive crap in your car. And if they don't want to give you your money back, tell them the Better Business Bureau, your lawyer and the internet say otherwise.
IPP has been bullishing around for too long giving people bad engines and transmissions. Bunk ish is bunk ish. Don't give em another dime.
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 82
Likes: 0
From: saltlakecity
NO.
Seriously NO.
Go to someone else who hasn't taken thousands of dollars and given you nothing worth while in return.
Call up dynosty (or any other reputable shop that WORKS WITH Zs and has BUILT FAST vqs, ie SP, Mazworx etc). Tell them you got shat on, and fork over the money you're about to burn with IPP. Get your money back from IPP. If they ask why you're bailing, tell them because their last two motors took a very expensive crap in your car. And if they don't want to give you your money back, tell them the Better Business Bureau, your lawyer and the internet say otherwise.
IPP has been bullishing around for too long giving people bad engines and transmissions. Bunk ish is bunk ish. Don't give em another dime.
Seriously NO.
Go to someone else who hasn't taken thousands of dollars and given you nothing worth while in return.
Call up dynosty (or any other reputable shop that WORKS WITH Zs and has BUILT FAST vqs, ie SP, Mazworx etc). Tell them you got shat on, and fork over the money you're about to burn with IPP. Get your money back from IPP. If they ask why you're bailing, tell them because their last two motors took a very expensive crap in your car. And if they don't want to give you your money back, tell them the Better Business Bureau, your lawyer and the internet say otherwise.
IPP has been bullishing around for too long giving people bad engines and transmissions. Bunk ish is bunk ish. Don't give em another dime.
I never said ipp was at fault. If they were I would have Ditched them after the first motor.
I'm now at my 3rd try with different shop. I hope I made the right choice this time.
^ regarding your first engine. I know it's old history now, but something doesn't sound right. A loosely "clocked" compressor cover won't cause you to lose oil. The back plate of the compressor is bolted to the CHRA. Rotating the compressor only rotates the cover.
I'm sorry to hear about your engine woes. This is primarily the reason I let no one touch my motors but me or close friends.
I'm sorry to hear about your engine woes. This is primarily the reason I let no one touch my motors but me or close friends.
You know it's your money spend it the way you want, but I wouldn't go near an IPP block after what happened.
IMHO it's much more likely you had some serious machining errors in your engine than a tuner not bolting down a compressor housing down hard enough.
But hey, just because what I think you're doing is a mistake doesn't mean it actually is.
IMHO it's much more likely you had some serious machining errors in your engine than a tuner not bolting down a compressor housing down hard enough.
But hey, just because what I think you're doing is a mistake doesn't mean it actually is.
Last edited by Resmarted; Oct 14, 2012 at 03:01 AM.
IPP builds some of the best blocks. Re-read his post. The engine builder has ZERO to do with engine failure. He mentions; oil starvation and miss matched spark plugs installed causing detonation. That sounds more like the installer/tuner not the engine builder.
This is to the guy with failing motor, not you Robert_K. Just quoted because of your last sentence.
Last edited by graffkid732; Oct 14, 2012 at 05:51 AM.
