Custom oil return line for APS TT.
#1
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My motor is going in to be built soon and i have been thinking over the idea of custom oil return lines as both the return lines on my second hand kit are looking shabby.
APS kits have a smoking issue when the engine oil level is run higher than the low level on the stock dip stick. I assume this is due to the extra head pressure acting on the oil return's?
Im looking at re-routing the oil returns into the upper oil pan using AN weld on nipples and SS braided hose.
Does this sound like a good idea because i cant see a down side to it? I think it will work better than the stock APS returns into the oil pan??
Ideas???
APS kits have a smoking issue when the engine oil level is run higher than the low level on the stock dip stick. I assume this is due to the extra head pressure acting on the oil return's?
Im looking at re-routing the oil returns into the upper oil pan using AN weld on nipples and SS braided hose.
Does this sound like a good idea because i cant see a down side to it? I think it will work better than the stock APS returns into the oil pan??
Ideas???
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Yeah thanks for the reply. I know APS put out a smoking "fix" that meant trimming the rubber return lines to keep a constant downwards flow.
I don't think keeping the returns flowing down wards will be a problem.
I don't think keeping the returns flowing down wards will be a problem.
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You should contact the someone at GTM. They have be tapping/machinge a hole into the crank girdle brace on their built engines, If you do it there way you can fill the oil to the full mark on the dipstick instead of the low mark.
Last edited by BrazenZ; 12-29-2009 at 12:08 PM.
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Your idea is sound, keep gravity working for you and there shouldn't be a problem. I considered doing this with my car if I had issues with the APS hoses.
One suggestion though, use the pushlock hose and fittings over the braided stainless, it's much easier to work with. I use the pushlock stuff anywhere that there isn't a chance of something abraiding through a hose. In the area of belts or other moving parts I like to use the braided stainless.
-10AN would be very similar in size to the APS hoses.
One suggestion though, use the pushlock hose and fittings over the braided stainless, it's much easier to work with. I use the pushlock stuff anywhere that there isn't a chance of something abraiding through a hose. In the area of belts or other moving parts I like to use the braided stainless.
-10AN would be very similar in size to the APS hoses.
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As others have stated, your idea will work assuming the downward flow of oil isn't interrupted. Both oil returns on my TT kit return to the upper pan, and the turbos are mounted in a very similar fashion to the APS turbos.
Instead of a weld-on nipple, why not just tap the upper pan for one of these? (5/8" barb to 1/2NPT)
Instead of a weld-on nipple, why not just tap the upper pan for one of these? (5/8" barb to 1/2NPT)
![](http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/fra-484006_w.jpg)
#7
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I always thought that having the drain enter above the oil level is a much better idea. This is how I did my: http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...bobuild002.jpg
The bottom of the entry point is about 1/2" above the max oil line level. It was a P.I.T.A to drill/tap there but I was set on it. Had to cut a drill bit in half, resharpen it and use a 90deg drill.
The bottom of the entry point is about 1/2" above the max oil line level. It was a P.I.T.A to drill/tap there but I was set on it. Had to cut a drill bit in half, resharpen it and use a 90deg drill.
Last edited by BoostedProbe; 12-29-2009 at 04:06 PM.
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Thanks guys. The shop i have asked to fab up the return's have weld on AN fittings in stock and a weld has no chance of leaking as well. Thier charging £90 for the parts inc. fitting/welding which sounds a fair quote to me ??
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I would much rather have the oil pan taped. The pan itself is plenty thick enough, and there is no way you can damage anything unless you really tried.
The reason I say that is that aluminum is a porous metal. With that said, it is more than likely contaminated by oil. This makes it hard to weld, and the integrity of the weld is greatly compromised. Surface cleaning doesn't help much because it is contaminated all the way through. Just my experience with aluminum.
The reason I say that is that aluminum is a porous metal. With that said, it is more than likely contaminated by oil. This makes it hard to weld, and the integrity of the weld is greatly compromised. Surface cleaning doesn't help much because it is contaminated all the way through. Just my experience with aluminum.
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This job is being done the weeks guys does any one else have any veiws on this?
This should allow me to run the motor oil to the full mark on the dip stick as the returns will be above the oil level?
Thanks.
This should allow me to run the motor oil to the full mark on the dip stick as the returns will be above the oil level?
Thanks.
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The JWT kits return oil via the spacer, presumably below the oil level surface, with no untoward issues or replumbing required. The install instructions are very explicit about the hose orientation and continual downward approach of course. It's odd that APS calls for reducing the oil level as a means to fix the issue. I wouldn't think that would have any impact on the oil return. All the oil, whether in the pan or in the hoses draining to it should sit at exactly the same level. Plumbing the return point higher would serve to reduce the angle of declination from the turbos. I'm not sure which is better.
Last edited by rcdash; 03-10-2010 at 08:46 AM.
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