my SC Setup
hmmm.. i didn't realize it suppose to be this way. but anyways, i have an appointment with my tuner to do dyno tuning on Sunday.
i'll keep you guys posted.
i'll keep you guys posted.
Last edited by maXmood; Jun 3, 2010 at 02:18 PM.
Update...
HPX MAF arrived today.. i'm taking the car to the tuner tomorrow and install the MAF @ spot.
this is suppose to be the last step to get this up and running.
next update in 24hrs..
HPX MAF arrived today.. i'm taking the car to the tuner tomorrow and install the MAF @ spot.
this is suppose to be the last step to get this up and running.
next update in 24hrs..
Last edited by maXmood; Jun 5, 2010 at 12:16 PM.
Update....
wasn't even able to pass the causeway...
i was suppose to take the car to my tuner, which is in a nearby country (around 50 miles drive) to have the car dyno tuned.
just after paying the insurance fees at our end of the boarder, the car went into limp mode (just like it did when tuning @ WOT), not accelerating (hardly drives). i plugged in my cipher to read error code, and again got the U1000, U1001. so the trip got cancelled because i don't want to risk it and drive it all the way there without knowing anyone to help me out if anything goes wrong. "i'm about to give up on the car".
my friend did couple of calls so we can try to find out what's causing this problem and what does the code refer to. we took it to his friend who got an OBD reader, but wasn't able to pull the codes because i cleared them when it died on me.
couple of chit chats with the guys in the garage, and everyone is suggesting something.. someone is saying, because the car is going boost, the ECU doesn't know what to do with boost, so it puts your car into safe mode. (am i running microsoft windows $hit on my car or what?).. well, what he's saying makes sense, only if i go into boost. and i never did.
someone else suggested i speak with a local tuner that can tune Haltech.. i said fine, since he's on his way to the garage, i'll wait for him.
the guy comes in, we sat and talked about the code and he suggested that the it's because of my tune.(i say it could be). and he suggested the easy way of trying to figure out the issue, get rid of the map on the ECU (return it to stock), and get SAFC or SAFC2 and he'll tune the car on the dyno/street.
if all goes well with that, then we can move to a different level of tuning.
that's where it ends..
sooo... on to the issue i'm facing with this:
-MAF is maxing out @ 5000rpm, but i never reached that range to cause a max out. but if i did, it could make the car go crazy.
-for the last 2 weeks, i was driving the car to work and back, and never got this error code. only yesterday when i did a little bit longer trip, it threw the code. which makes me wonder if it's heat problem (even tho every other indicator says my heat is in range/good).
-now, DTC U1000 and U1001 (CAN Communication Line) is described below (for Murano cars), but exactly to the letter on what's happening with me.
----------------------------------------
Usually this ends up being a loose grounding bolt holding the ECM to the dash bar, causing the ECM to lose ground temporarily. Many with this DTC complained of hesitation, stalling or the engine holding a lower than normal RPM. For me, I was cruising at about 45 MPH, the engine dropped to about 500 RPMs, began shuddering, and the SES light came on. The engine did not respond to the gas pedal and at about 15 MPH it stalled. I got over to the shoulder and tried to restart but it did nothing. It was like when you try to start with a completely dead battery; no sound. But I had full electrical power since the lights/radio/air was on. 5 minutes later, it started back up as if nothing had happened. Check Engine light remained on, and until it was looked at by a mechanic was a bit hesitant during acceleration.
Had my mechanic retighten the various connections. He left SES light on (didn't clear code). That way if he didn't fix the issue, a dealer would have the code to go by (dealers won't take your word, they need the code). About a week later the SES light turned off and the issue has not returned.
TSB EC06-001A
Relates to DTC U1000/U1001
Description
"CAN (Controller Area Network) is a serial communication line for real time application. It is an on-vehicle multiplex communication line with high data communication speed and excellent error detection ability. Many electronic control units are equipped onto a vehicle, and each control unit shares information and links with other control units during operation (not independent). In CAN communication, control units are conected with 2 communication lines (CAN H line, CAN L line) allowing a high rate of information transmission with less wiring. Each control unit transmits/receives data but selectively reads required data only."
DTC Detecting Condition
-ECM cannot communicate to other control units.
-ECM cannot communicate for more than the specified time.
Possible Cause
-Harness or connectors (CAN communication line is open or shorted).
When an issue with the CAN arises (at least twice in one trip), it triggers the Service Engine Soon (SES) light on the dash.
TSB EC06-001A Actions
When this code is brought on by a grounding issue, these are the steps the mechanic will follow to remedy.
-Clean/re-tighten ECM ground connections.
-Clean/retighten negative battery cable body connection and battery post connection.
-If needed, clean and ensure good contact between the steering member assembly and the left side instrument stay assembly.
Quote:
<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=6 width="100%" border=0 itxtvisited="1"><TBODY itxtvisited="1"><TR itxtvisited="1"><TD class=alt2 style="BORDER-RIGHT: 1px inset; BORDER-TOP: 1px inset; BORDER-LEFT: 1px inset; BORDER-BOTTOM: 1px inset" itxtvisited="1">Originally posted by vistokid
"Found U1000 Can Com code. This code is caused by ECM not getting proper ground. This is due to ECM is grounded through dash bar to vehicle body and bolts connecting dash bar to body become loose and ground is temporarily lost. Retorqued bolts and erased code light."
Charge:
Labor $89.95
Misc Charges $11.24
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
Quote:
<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=6 width="100%" border=0 itxtvisited="1"><TBODY itxtvisited="1"><TR itxtvisited="1"><TD class=alt2 style="BORDER-RIGHT: 1px inset; BORDER-TOP: 1px inset; BORDER-LEFT: 1px inset; BORDER-BOTTOM: 1px inset" itxtvisited="1">Originally posted by njjoe
I had the C1000 (same as U1000) grounding problem three years ago. The fix was simple (tightened a grounding bolt under the dash) and took less than an hour. My records show they implemented Service Bulletin #EC06-001a... I was a bit skeptical when they claimed all they did was tighten a ground connection, so they printed out the SB as proof. The problem never returned. It was repaired under the bumper-to-bumper warranty.
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
Quote:
<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=6 width="100%" border=0 itxtvisited="1"><TBODY itxtvisited="1"><TR itxtvisited="1"><TD class=alt2 style="BORDER-RIGHT: 1px inset; BORDER-TOP: 1px inset; BORDER-LEFT: 1px inset; BORDER-BOTTOM: 1px inset" itxtvisited="1">Originally posted by PearlMurano
I went to Nissan today and they checked the SES code. Turns out it was code U1000 communication failure, ECM ground failure. They removed the dash and cleaned contacts at ECM and harness and secured connections. All is going well so far. Seems to have fixed my problem. Tech said that the murano was well known to have electrical problems of this type.
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
--------------------------------------------
Sooooooo.. in that context, i'm hoping this is the cause of it (even tho this is on a Murano). but the problem is, how can i explain it to the mechanic????????
if this gets fixed, then i'm going stick to Osiris and go back to my tuner to get it dyno tuned. or even get him here to do it.
<!-- edit note -->
wasn't even able to pass the causeway...
i was suppose to take the car to my tuner, which is in a nearby country (around 50 miles drive) to have the car dyno tuned.
just after paying the insurance fees at our end of the boarder, the car went into limp mode (just like it did when tuning @ WOT), not accelerating (hardly drives). i plugged in my cipher to read error code, and again got the U1000, U1001. so the trip got cancelled because i don't want to risk it and drive it all the way there without knowing anyone to help me out if anything goes wrong. "i'm about to give up on the car".
my friend did couple of calls so we can try to find out what's causing this problem and what does the code refer to. we took it to his friend who got an OBD reader, but wasn't able to pull the codes because i cleared them when it died on me.
couple of chit chats with the guys in the garage, and everyone is suggesting something.. someone is saying, because the car is going boost, the ECU doesn't know what to do with boost, so it puts your car into safe mode. (am i running microsoft windows $hit on my car or what?).. well, what he's saying makes sense, only if i go into boost. and i never did.
someone else suggested i speak with a local tuner that can tune Haltech.. i said fine, since he's on his way to the garage, i'll wait for him.
the guy comes in, we sat and talked about the code and he suggested that the it's because of my tune.(i say it could be). and he suggested the easy way of trying to figure out the issue, get rid of the map on the ECU (return it to stock), and get SAFC or SAFC2 and he'll tune the car on the dyno/street.
if all goes well with that, then we can move to a different level of tuning.
that's where it ends..
sooo... on to the issue i'm facing with this:
-MAF is maxing out @ 5000rpm, but i never reached that range to cause a max out. but if i did, it could make the car go crazy.
-for the last 2 weeks, i was driving the car to work and back, and never got this error code. only yesterday when i did a little bit longer trip, it threw the code. which makes me wonder if it's heat problem (even tho every other indicator says my heat is in range/good).
-now, DTC U1000 and U1001 (CAN Communication Line) is described below (for Murano cars), but exactly to the letter on what's happening with me.
----------------------------------------
Usually this ends up being a loose grounding bolt holding the ECM to the dash bar, causing the ECM to lose ground temporarily. Many with this DTC complained of hesitation, stalling or the engine holding a lower than normal RPM. For me, I was cruising at about 45 MPH, the engine dropped to about 500 RPMs, began shuddering, and the SES light came on. The engine did not respond to the gas pedal and at about 15 MPH it stalled. I got over to the shoulder and tried to restart but it did nothing. It was like when you try to start with a completely dead battery; no sound. But I had full electrical power since the lights/radio/air was on. 5 minutes later, it started back up as if nothing had happened. Check Engine light remained on, and until it was looked at by a mechanic was a bit hesitant during acceleration.
Had my mechanic retighten the various connections. He left SES light on (didn't clear code). That way if he didn't fix the issue, a dealer would have the code to go by (dealers won't take your word, they need the code). About a week later the SES light turned off and the issue has not returned.
TSB EC06-001A
Relates to DTC U1000/U1001
Description
"CAN (Controller Area Network) is a serial communication line for real time application. It is an on-vehicle multiplex communication line with high data communication speed and excellent error detection ability. Many electronic control units are equipped onto a vehicle, and each control unit shares information and links with other control units during operation (not independent). In CAN communication, control units are conected with 2 communication lines (CAN H line, CAN L line) allowing a high rate of information transmission with less wiring. Each control unit transmits/receives data but selectively reads required data only."
DTC Detecting Condition
-ECM cannot communicate to other control units.
-ECM cannot communicate for more than the specified time.
Possible Cause
-Harness or connectors (CAN communication line is open or shorted).
When an issue with the CAN arises (at least twice in one trip), it triggers the Service Engine Soon (SES) light on the dash.
TSB EC06-001A Actions
When this code is brought on by a grounding issue, these are the steps the mechanic will follow to remedy.
-Clean/re-tighten ECM ground connections.
-Clean/retighten negative battery cable body connection and battery post connection.
-If needed, clean and ensure good contact between the steering member assembly and the left side instrument stay assembly.
Quote:
<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=6 width="100%" border=0 itxtvisited="1"><TBODY itxtvisited="1"><TR itxtvisited="1"><TD class=alt2 style="BORDER-RIGHT: 1px inset; BORDER-TOP: 1px inset; BORDER-LEFT: 1px inset; BORDER-BOTTOM: 1px inset" itxtvisited="1">Originally posted by vistokid
"Found U1000 Can Com code. This code is caused by ECM not getting proper ground. This is due to ECM is grounded through dash bar to vehicle body and bolts connecting dash bar to body become loose and ground is temporarily lost. Retorqued bolts and erased code light."
Charge:
Labor $89.95
Misc Charges $11.24
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
Quote:
<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=6 width="100%" border=0 itxtvisited="1"><TBODY itxtvisited="1"><TR itxtvisited="1"><TD class=alt2 style="BORDER-RIGHT: 1px inset; BORDER-TOP: 1px inset; BORDER-LEFT: 1px inset; BORDER-BOTTOM: 1px inset" itxtvisited="1">Originally posted by njjoe
I had the C1000 (same as U1000) grounding problem three years ago. The fix was simple (tightened a grounding bolt under the dash) and took less than an hour. My records show they implemented Service Bulletin #EC06-001a... I was a bit skeptical when they claimed all they did was tighten a ground connection, so they printed out the SB as proof. The problem never returned. It was repaired under the bumper-to-bumper warranty.
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
Quote:
<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=6 width="100%" border=0 itxtvisited="1"><TBODY itxtvisited="1"><TR itxtvisited="1"><TD class=alt2 style="BORDER-RIGHT: 1px inset; BORDER-TOP: 1px inset; BORDER-LEFT: 1px inset; BORDER-BOTTOM: 1px inset" itxtvisited="1">Originally posted by PearlMurano
I went to Nissan today and they checked the SES code. Turns out it was code U1000 communication failure, ECM ground failure. They removed the dash and cleaned contacts at ECM and harness and secured connections. All is going well so far. Seems to have fixed my problem. Tech said that the murano was well known to have electrical problems of this type.
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
--------------------------------------------
Sooooooo.. in that context, i'm hoping this is the cause of it (even tho this is on a Murano). but the problem is, how can i explain it to the mechanic????????
if this gets fixed, then i'm going stick to Osiris and go back to my tuner to get it dyno tuned. or even get him here to do it.
Last edited by maXmood; Jun 6, 2010 at 10:31 PM.
^car at the dealership to try and get the grounding issue (U1000, U1001) fixed..
ditching osiris for couple of reasons:
-the Haltech tuner is available locally
-osiris tuner is abroad
-the cost of tuning with osiris (+ two dyno runs) is around $330
-the cost of tuning with haltech (including N number of dyno runs "whatever it takes") is around $210
-osiris tuner tuned enough american cars, couple of stock japanese, and non-FI'ed 350z.
-haltech tuner tuned a handfull of FI'ed 350z
enough reasons for me to switch..
i'm gonna get an RFS stage 0 installed as well.
ditching osiris for couple of reasons:
-the Haltech tuner is available locally
-osiris tuner is abroad
-the cost of tuning with osiris (+ two dyno runs) is around $330
-the cost of tuning with haltech (including N number of dyno runs "whatever it takes") is around $210
-osiris tuner tuned enough american cars, couple of stock japanese, and non-FI'ed 350z.
-haltech tuner tuned a handfull of FI'ed 350z
enough reasons for me to switch..
i'm gonna get an RFS stage 0 installed as well.
Yeah having a tuner locally available is a big deal...I run Osiris no problem on my Vortech (with the help of a good local Osiris tuner, of course,...), but in the end if you don't have a capable tuner it dosen't matter how good your EMS is...
^car at the dealership to try and get the grounding issue (U1000, U1001) fixed..
ditching osiris for couple of reasons:
-the Haltech tuner is available locally
-osiris tuner is abroad
-the cost of tuning with osiris (+ two dyno runs) is around $330
-the cost of tuning with haltech (including N number of dyno runs "whatever it takes") is around $210
-osiris tuner tuned enough american cars, couple of stock japanese, and non-FI'ed 350z.
-haltech tuner tuned a handfull of FI'ed 350z
enough reasons for me to switch..
i'm gonna get an RFS stage 0 installed as well.
ditching osiris for couple of reasons:
-the Haltech tuner is available locally
-osiris tuner is abroad
-the cost of tuning with osiris (+ two dyno runs) is around $330
-the cost of tuning with haltech (including N number of dyno runs "whatever it takes") is around $210
-osiris tuner tuned enough american cars, couple of stock japanese, and non-FI'ed 350z.
-haltech tuner tuned a handfull of FI'ed 350z
enough reasons for me to switch..
i'm gonna get an RFS stage 0 installed as well.
Last edited by 350z006; Jun 8, 2010 at 07:45 AM.
Vince is a great guy.. i can't thank him enough for what he's doing for me. and i'm very interested in learning how to tune, but it's almost impossible to learn from overseas. the timezone is a huge factor in not making this as easy as it sounds.
once the car is up and running, i can study and learn more about tuning, at the same time i can practice on the car.
once the car is up and running, i can study and learn more about tuning, at the same time i can practice on the car.
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 5,311
Likes: 0
From: Dallas/NewYork/Michigan/Korea
Sorry to hear issue that you are going thru. Why not your tuner try learn osiris? That wouldn't be that hard if he already knew how to contral haltech and tuned many FI Zs. It maybe more business for him in future 
Well haltech is the one ems that i always wanted to try. One of forum member showed me how it works on laptop etc etc...awesome unit for sure. But my budget didn't let me at that time. Btw it's good choice for down the road.
Again sorry for you going thru all that.
Well haltech is the one ems that i always wanted to try. One of forum member showed me how it works on laptop etc etc...awesome unit for sure. But my budget didn't let me at that time. Btw it's good choice for down the road.
Again sorry for you going thru all that.
Sorry to hear issue that you are going thru. Why not your tuner try learn osiris? That wouldn't be that hard if he already knew how to contral haltech and tuned many FI Zs. It maybe more business for him in future
Well haltech is the one ems that i always wanted to try. One of forum member showed me how it works on laptop etc etc...awesome unit for sure. But my budget didn't let me at that time. Btw it's good choice for down the road.
Again sorry for you going thru all that.
Well haltech is the one ems that i always wanted to try. One of forum member showed me how it works on laptop etc etc...awesome unit for sure. But my budget didn't let me at that time. Btw it's good choice for down the road.
Again sorry for you going thru all that.
not to be rude, but i'm not gonna let the tuner learn how to tune osiris on my expense. alot of tuners know how to tune only one type of EMS, and when you provide them with another, they F it up. so i'll skip that and i'll let him do the Haltech which he knows how to use. once i'm happy, he can have osiris to fiddle with.
i just hope the dealership fixes my grounding issue.. if they do, then i can move into the next issue (if any).
noob Question..., do i still need to replace my MAF after haltech installation??
i mean, can't the haltech trick it to read less? i'm not sure if that's too dumb to ask.
Last edited by maXmood; Jun 8, 2010 at 10:42 PM.
I believe Haltech is MAP based tuning (boost) vs MAF based on Osiris, but I could be wrong....verify with your tuner...
Thanks Chef...
not to be rude, but i'm not gonna let the tuner learn how to tune osiris on my expense. alot of tuners know how to tune only one type of EMS, and when you provide them with another, they F it up. so i'll skip that and i'll let him do the Haltech which he knows how to use. once i'm happy, he can have osiris to fiddle with.
i just hope the dealership fixes my grounding issue.. if they do, then i can move into the next issue (if any).
noob Question..., do i still need to replace my MAF after haltech installation??
i mean, can't the haltech trick it to read less? i'm not sure if that's too dumb to ask.
not to be rude, but i'm not gonna let the tuner learn how to tune osiris on my expense. alot of tuners know how to tune only one type of EMS, and when you provide them with another, they F it up. so i'll skip that and i'll let him do the Haltech which he knows how to use. once i'm happy, he can have osiris to fiddle with.
i just hope the dealership fixes my grounding issue.. if they do, then i can move into the next issue (if any).
noob Question..., do i still need to replace my MAF after haltech installation??
i mean, can't the haltech trick it to read less? i'm not sure if that's too dumb to ask.
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 5,311
Likes: 0
From: Dallas/NewYork/Michigan/Korea
^ he gave you an answer. No need HPX sensor if you tunning via standalone. I understand, i was just playing about let your tuner learn. Will keep my eyes on everytime i come on this forum.
Will keep my eyes on everytime i come on this forum.
^ok.. so i've wasted money on a MAF that i don't need... fine!
anyways, here is a status update:
dealership doesn't wanna work on the car because of 2 reasons, (1) because i cleared the code before taking it to them, even tho i've explained the issue along with the DTC i'm getting, and (2) because the car is "modified" and they won't be able to tell what could cause this (U1000).
i can't really do much with this now, i'll have to wait till it appears again and maybe (and i say maybe) they'll look at the problem.
i'm left with no options.
anyways, here is a status update:
dealership doesn't wanna work on the car because of 2 reasons, (1) because i cleared the code before taking it to them, even tho i've explained the issue along with the DTC i'm getting, and (2) because the car is "modified" and they won't be able to tell what could cause this (U1000).
i can't really do much with this now, i'll have to wait till it appears again and maybe (and i say maybe) they'll look at the problem.
i'm left with no options.
just read all 8 pages, man i feel bad for you, i hope you fix the car and don't let go. I think the best thing u should've went with haltec cost you less, plus the tuner has already tuned plenty of FI z's
