i will do it for far less than 15k. i bought a used block that came with everything from the maf to stock manifolds and everything in between. buying a built block is not taking part in half the fun and is a huge waste of money, my two cents

 

NO its not, i was going to build an NA before i decide to boost, to the point where i already bought parts. NA doesnt require a high flow fuel system ($2k), High end EMS($2k+ vs ~$400), as many gauges, or the turbo kit itself ($3k-10k depending kit and new/used), or the cost of the install of the kit on top of the engine build/swap (if not DIY), and Tuning is typically twice as much to tune a boosted car.

 

n/a is way too expensive to go and get no real good gains...if u have a z that is not a HR you will struglle for 300whp staying na for the same price you could have a safe 400whp on stock block and be boosted...i ran a vortech kit at 420whp on 9.5 psi for over 30k miles and it ran strong the whole time..tracked it and all..many people here are running stock blocks for a very long time..a good tune really has alot to do with reliability..400whp on a stock block with a conservative tune and a/f in the mid 11 range will be prefectly fine for many many miles and much more of a car than a n/a built car

 

lol, i wish, i grew up on chevys, just wouldnt feel right in this car though

 

well im interested to see this now.. keep us posted and good luck man

 

now i just need to decide whether to order the 8.5:1 or 11:1 pistons.....

 

This is your ONLY viable option if you want a N/A Z beast. Any other attempts to build the VQ for N/A power will prove futile in the HP to dollar range. The LS motor responds a hell of a lot better than the VQ with respect to N/A mods. So you have two choices.

1. FI on the VQ (Built or Stock block)
2. Engine Swap (LS1 or LS2 or LS6) (Check to see if legal in your state/county)


Also you need to know what you're going to be doing with the car. If it's going to sit in the garage 6 days a week then I would go FI. If you actually drive your car everyday and race it then I would go with an engine swap.

Or unless you have semi-deep pockets and can afford to replace an ENTIRE stock block setup (multiple times) and I mean ENTIRE setup for daily driving. Or an ENTIRE built block setup (multiple times) if you want to drive it everyday as well. Those are your choices.

 

Maybe with a quick spool valve. I think Sound Performance Racing makes it. That said, I have not seen a single turbo for our platform spin up as quickly as twin GT25Rs or GT28Rs. Check with Sound Performance Racing and see what their quick spool valve will do on a GT35R turbo, maybe that combination would do so.

Forged Performance just did a Momentum single turbo build with a GT35R (no quick spool valve). Although the spoolup is not too bad, it certainly is not as fast as a pair of small twin turbos provide. Here is the thread:

https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...ew-pics-5.html

Twin JWT 530 BB turbos spoolup at at about 3300 rpm. I think these are GT25R tubos. Here is a link to a thread with the dyno chart. This tune was a little conservative, this turbo kit will easily exceed 400 whp, and may even get you close to 500 whp. In fact, the user presently lists 480 hp.

https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-...lly-dynod.html

The JWT 700 BB turbos (GT28Rs?) spoolup around 3500 rpm.

https://my350z.com/forum/attachments...cted-speed.jpg

The 700BB turbos will allow the engine to breath better, and thus provide better top end.

 

LMAO @ boosted, built AND lasting 100K miles!!!

A 350whp built VQ wouldnt last 100K miles, I doubt any of the turbos would either.

You want reliable, go NA.

 

At 15 pounds of boost, you should get A LOT more than just 400 hp.

 

I have a single turbo boosted Z on stock internals. I think I put the turbo on when I had about 40,000 miles and I now have 98,000 miles and the car is still in great condition.

Now, mind you, I don't abuse it nor do I drive it everyday. Even if I did drive it everyday, asfar as the block is concerned, as long as you aren't in boost, you're not going over factory specs for usage. When I do push it, it's typically when a Camaro SS, Corvette, Porsche wants to play which means I might be in boost for a few seconds to a few minutes but that's it. I haven't taken the car to a HPDE while boosted.

My point is that even on a stock block, if you are sensible, the block should last for years. It appears you wish to do a build and lower compression so again, if you don't abuse it, the car will ast even longer.

P.S. Screw N/A. Boost is the ONLY way to go at least for the VQ35. I wasted so much money on N/A mods and I laugh at all the people who try to be purist and start trying to build an N/A Z.

 

just do the ls swap and call it a dang day. You get everything you want and more.

 

So basically you drive like my grandmother, of course it will last for you.

Anybody that actually drives the car in boost. even if only a gear or two pull every other time you drive it would have issues. Id put money on it.

 

i have to agree, how you drive it has a great deal with how long a stock block boosted lasts. but whats the point of babying it? i dont drive mine often but when i do i thrash it as much as possible.

 

LS2-3 or VK56

/thread

 

The stock block is not built to handle 600 hp. The rods won't hold up. Also, I'm not sure how well the stock bearings will do.

As others have said, even at 400 whp it may not last long if you drive hard. Some people who are gentle on the motor do get reasonable life out of their boosted stock blocks, but what's the point of going through all of this if you are going to be gentle with it.

 

One more note, since the motor is already out, you might want to consider using aftermarket headers or exhaust manifods. The build with the Momentum kit to which I posted the link in my earlier post is using headers, and the power is holding better in the upper RPM band in comparison to the build with the Boosted Performance kit that is using stock headers.

https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...uild-pics.html

Anyway, it's your car and your money. I'm just trying to save you from frustration later on down the road.

 

I believe he was trying to say when he built the block he wanted to build it with internals strong enough to hold 600rwhp. But only run 400rwhp for reliability

 

That's how I interpreted his initial post. The second post I referenced made it sound like he was going to use the stock block. Perhaps I misunderstood what he meant.

Since the motor is already out of the car and sitting there, I would at least build the short block with aftermarket rods, pistons and bearings, and use aftermarket exhaust headers or manifolds. Just my 2 cents.

 

No. I don't drive like your grandmother. I just don't beat the crap out of my car. That will come when I do a full build.