Almost there... hope the firing issue is something that is simple and easily fixed.

 

me too XD fingers are crossed lmao

 

Here we go man. Final showdown time. Hope the boys get it sorted. Actually- I know they'll nail it- but I hope the problem is easily rectified and not something ridiculous. I'm excited to see a victory here!

 

Side note, how much are those stock hr cams going to flow? I'm interested to see, because I'm considering hr cams in my build. They have 1mm more lift and a respectable amount more duration.

 

We will see lol. Port and polished the heads and such so hopefully a decent amount

 

havent seen any port'n polish jobs translate to more power on the dyno. but if you have alot of spare money,it doesnt hurt. Same with oversizing the valves.

 

probably because very few people actually have the power to max out the amazing flow of our stock heads

 

wasnt that much actually, found a domestic shop that did an amazing port and polish jobs on some of my ls6 vette's locally. I brought mine down and he quoted me $600 for port and polish on the heads and the lower plenum. and he reassembled all my springs and cams and such on top of that

 

car is home in the garage got it wrapped up tonight



break in tune is on it right now. Small issue though with the cjm twin pump. to keep the fuel temperature code from going off you have to put in a 2.4 ohm resistor. did that when wiring it up and it works fine but still getting that code. thinking maybe for the HR it needs a different resistor to solve this issue? going to call Charles tommorow and see what we need to change.

 

Hey Ace I saw that you had to do all that stuff with the CJM twin pump and decided to go a different route just using the stock fuel pump. I decided to have a 4 liter fuel surge tank made from TTG35fort's design. I'm mounting it on the under side of where the spare tire sits. There's a quick connect fitting that you can attach to the stock fuel pump housing but has a -8 output that you can send to the surge tank. I'm going to use a big Fuelab pump to push the E85 up to the motor. We can use our stock HR fuel rails and just weld in AN fittings to accommodate the bigger fuel and return lines. Fuelab also just debuted at SEMA their new fuel pressure regulator that controls their fuel pump electronically by monitoring return pressure, it looks pretty sweet and eliminates the need for a fuel pump speed controller. Let me know if you want the design for that surge tank.

 

Didn't you just buy that other 350z? and it is already torn apart???

 

ace, make sure you have the correct wires used and the correct resistance. I used 2.2k ohm because it was the closest available. I would check your resistors because there is an error rate on the one you used that could put it in an area to still throw the code.

also, if you haven't already reset the code and restart the car to try it again. The code might not have been reset and it will stay until it's reset after it's been tripped. if that's still the issue try a 2.2k ohm like i did.

 

ryan, is a speed controller needed? i've never heard of other members with a big external and surge tank needing one. I thought fuel pumps are designed to run full speed all the time then the fuel not used is just returned. Seems like a complex expensive system that isn't needed. Do they use this to adjust fuel pressure? I would rather just use teh tried and true boost referenced system so there is less to go wrong (electronics).

 

i dont think i will for now but ill keep it in mind, not really looking to tear into the car again haha XD.

 

when he was tuning it he reset it a few times and tried turning the car off and such. its not throwing the CEL now but its still popping up in the ecu, were just worried it might kick it into limp mode. I see maybe that is what it is, ill look around and see if i have a 2.2k ohm and try that out and see if it gets rid of it, sadly i dont have a cable to check the ecu myself ill have to run it back up to my shop

 

yes lol, has a bad headgasget i believe so pulling the motor checking everything out. they did a sh!tty job on the install too so theres a few things that need fixing with location of the wiring and the zip tied brackets they had on it.

 

its a 2.4K resistor. so 2400 ohms


edit** see thats been covered. carry on.

 

lmao

 

hmm, so the cel isn't on? i wouldn't worry about it. I don't think the temp is something that causes limp mode. I thought someone who used this pump had that cel for quite a while with no issues before he used the resistor to make it go away.

 

it was originally. but he turned it off and it hasnt come back on yet, code is still coming up in the ecu though is what he was concerned about. shouldnt be an issue going to drive it till Saturday and bring it back up and try a 2.2k resistor like you suggested