clean the throttle body (if it wasn't cleaned well before assembly) then do a full throttle body reset. It requires a bunch of parameters to be met before it will "stick" and actually change anything. Engine has to be a certain temp, car in neutral, no cel's, etc etc. Look in the manual and make sure it's exactly how they have it before you perform the reset. I kept resetting mine and it never did anything until i saw all the stuff that has to be perfect with the car then i tried it again and it worked perfectly.

 

yah like i said in the email and ill put it here for future reference, oddly enough turning back on wideband control fixed the die on decel issue oddly enough.

 

witch craft

 

i think it is because i had my idle and decel cells at a nice 13.5, outside of turning on wideband control nothing else was changed and its fine. took it to the vq inc meet tonight and ran great except i missed second and looked like a fool haha. dint do too much cuz i had my son with me though so no speeding.

 

granny shifting, not double clutchin like you should.....

 

I was wondering, you mentioned you will be going with direct port meth injection. How do you calculate injectors size for each port vs HP goal?

 

i calculated it as 10% of total fuel consumption with pure meth

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rJcXDpehJkQ

shitty video since px only has helmet mount gopro's atm and i swear its on a closed track lol also was a pain in the *** to find a place to mount camera where i could actually hit the record button and see anything really need to get a go pro.

still breaking up up top some that should be tuned out tonight so i was shifting at 6k to avoid the misfires. turned meth down so it turns on about 12 psi, have a tiny bit of knock so i dropped timing in those areas a degree, but im also only running -20 windshield washer fluid since thats all the shopette had which i believe is only 25% meth gona go get a gallon today to mix in that should give me about a 50/50 mix with whats in there already.(1.5 gallons)

i need to make a heat shield for the air filter though and i can net some more power out of that, im seeing anywhere from 110-130 degree temps at idle and driving around even with the exhuast ceramic painted and heat wrapped, granted the meth will drop that 20 degrees once it kicks in(plus what the air is heated by the turbo on top of that.) see temps jump just a couple degrees before meth kicks in and drops it way down, plus the intercooler helps once im moving also but i just think i can see lower then that.

also im getting some slight wheel spin here and there but for the most part im gripping pretty good.

 

ah, traction.

about the intake temps. Even in the 90* here i'm not seeing too terribly high intake temps. as you know any idling will rocket temps way up even if that air filter is mounted in front of the front bumper. That's why i like to get cruising around to cool off the intercooler before i do any pulls for tuning. I never sit and let the car idle while i'm tuning because i don't want the engine bay getting super hot or the intercooler becoming heat soaked. I have a closed g35 front end so my intercooler doesn't get half the air the 350z's get.

 

yah it cools off quick when moving but the way i see it with a quick heat shield i can make up out of aluminum or carbon fiber it cant hurt the 130 temps is def from heat soak in the engine bay though, i normally dont get that high and my exhuast was getting hot enough it was burning the heat paint off the exhuast wrap(i have it painted then wrapped then painted again.) i imagine the paint on the exhuast is gone lol.

im gona go pick up some alchol today i think the best im going to be able to do is really expensive heet or denatured alchol.

 

ya, adding that shield wont hurt. Since i had to modify mine for the CJM hard lines my filter is really close to the cross over pipe so i'm sure i could benefit as well......i'm just lazy though.

 

haha same here ive been working on carbon fiber hood vents for a couple weeks. the molds still not done.

 

well if you feel the need to make a shield i can use by all means

i'm really not THAT lazy, i'm just in clinic until 7pm m-f then work weekends, have to set up lectures to teach and in my small free time I have to finish up the loose ends on my research. By that time I don't want to work on the car anymore!

 

its all good, im doing the army thing full time + school full time. so when i get free time i like to be lazy 4 days off this week though so i might work on something.

 

just finished a pretty damn close tune, finally pulled enough fuel for the widebands to move off max rich last night, which actually caused me to see higher boost(23.5 psi now) so i definitly need to drop the wastegate spring when i find time.) its making alot more power now that the fuel is actually close to where it needs to be. getting on the highway in third was fine until i hit about 4500 rpms then it was useless just burned the tires right off the thing lol but hey its fun.

dyno will be happening next friday at 4pm see what its actually making, just redid the map so it should be pretty close now, was about 11-11.2:1 afr in boost so took just a tiny bit of fuel out so that should put me close to my 11.8:1 target.

adjusted knock map a little more too because my engine is retarded loud(mainly cams)+solid mounts+ straight pipe exhuast i imagine is causing some noise too. pretty sure its just the sensitivity because at 21 psi boost i showed 300 count of knock but 23 psi i only showed 22 counts. they use the same spark, fuel, and knock cells so i imagine theres just something about that rpm point.

oh yah also added 2 quarts of denatured alcohol to my 1.5 gallons of -20 washer fluid, seeing max intake temps of 107 at 23 psi boost vs 97 cruising off boost so i dont think that its bad at all, i think once i get the direct port setup(god damn so much to do still) i might actually see lower temps in boost then off boost.

of course im not 100% sure the meth is actually kicking in, my temp increase's are pretty liner so i might have someone ride along and feel the pump to see if its actually doing anything.

 

hmm i actually wonder if mayby im seeing some sort of issues with my wastegate referance. i have the boost control solenoid but according to the picture on
http://www.tialmedia.com/documents/MV-Spring-Guide.jpg

i should only be at 1.1 bar with the copper and maroon in there, i know my meth kit referances the wastegate boost line from the turbo as well so gona have to pull everything loose and see if theres a blockage somewhere.

 

off topic post is off topic

I read all this tuning stuff, and technical jiberish, can't comprehend. So a couple questions?

Is tuning the same across the board, meaning can you tune UpRev?

Will you tune for free?

 

software is all different, i havnt messed with the uprev stuff so i honestly dont know the haltech is super user friendly and very easy to tune. best case is i could take a look at it but i know it would be more of a pain since no wideband integrated into the uprev and i believe(correct me if im wrong) you can only view external logs with uprev which would make it harder to tune.

also i wont even try to claim my tune is close to as good as a pro who does it regularly.

a little more on topic though i just checked and both wastegate and meth are indeed working applying 12 psi pressure right at the lines where it comes off the turbo. but the meth kicks off quickly. my only guess is mayby its loosing pressure from the boost control solenoid not having power from being turned off while tuning, possibly escaping out the center port vent anyone able to comment on that? i can hear the wastegate opening or at least partially opening at 12 psi from a compressor so the springs are definitly not stronger then i thought im just loosing pressure somewhere.

 

jerry, the fact that the boost pressure is changing (and increasing) says that there is something else going on. You are either losing pressure in the reference line to the bottom of the wastegate (thus not opening it) or you are accidentally supplying pressure to the top port of the wastegate causing pressure to force the wastegate closed.

about your meth, you said the meth pump kicks on and then shuts off? You also said you have the power to the meth switch off of the boost solenoid power? that won't work at all. If the boost controller is turned off then the positive wire has no power supplied to it. Then if you are using the power and ground it won't work properly once the boost controller is working because the ground is a pulsed ground.

I had a problem with boosting higher than my spring rate. It was my exhaust causing too high of back pressure. Not sure that is the case though. I would go after the wastegate plumming first since you have open exhaust i think.

10* raise in temps is about normal for that huge intercooler. Not bad at all. It should start going down once meth kicks on though. You mentioned that it will reduce even further with direct port. Since your temp sensor is in the intake tube and the direct port will be right at each cylinder your actual viewed intake temps will be higher than the air that is going into the cylinders. So technically you will "see" higher temps with the direct port than you would spraying into the intake tube pre-maf. You'll just have to modify your fuel vs IAT table so it doesn't change stuff on you based on the false reading it will get in the intake tube.

about the knock map. Every engine will have it's own places that is more noisy than normal. Just the way that specific engine was built and the way the parts rattle together, lol. I am a little scared to see that the meth isn't on and you are 23psi on pumpgas though!! If that meth is pre-maf then once it kicks on those IATs should drop like crazy and end up below ambient temps.

about uprev...it's a nightmare compared to haltech. It's maf tuning and it's not straight numbers. You have to adjust different tables in different areas as well as the injector pulse and a K multiplier. The timing is in some weird nissan thing as well. They measure it by post burn time or peak burn time or something like that instead of BTDC like everyone else. So the numbers are in the 40-60 range and don't correlate directly to 1* timing for 1 osiris number. So it's tricky to get timing right. I just did tuning on a vortech 350z on uprev a month ago....forgot how much i hated that crap since i stopped tuning with it over 2 years ago.

 

nah the two are wired independently, however it is referenced on the same boost line. this would be a picture for the vacuum lines, the meth controller is just a pressure sensor with two wires one is its own ground the other goes to the ground on the relay to complete the circuit and turn it on.
vacuum lines.


im definitly loosing pressure somewhere, i turned the boost controller back on to see if mayby it was was the fact i had it plumbed but not enabled in the haltech. of course it also seemed weird to me to have a vent on the front as that would allow boost pressure to escape but thats how it says to have it set up. i imagine the reason the meth turns off then on is because it sees the pressure then it drops down from the leak.

def not back pressure because yah i have the open exhuast and dump lol

for the direct port im having the ports welded into the top of the runners on the kinetix and a ait sensor port in the bottom of one of the middle runners. picked up a gm style with a small element that some of the honda guys use supposedly reacts very quickly, not sure if i will be able to use copy through timing then though. but yah i imagine my 8:1 compression helps a bit with the boost level although then again mayby it is kicking on and im over reacting but i dont think so im gonna have a buddy ride along probably tomarrow or saturday.

but yah i cant wait to see what my temps are once meth kicks on, thats going to be a huge increase in power lol.

actually thinking about it i wonder if its the pressure switch leaking i believe the way it works is the boost pressure pushs the switch up to make contact.......... i wouldnt think so though because when i tryed hooking it directly to the hose leading to that(as in the pressure sensor was the only component being tested.) it kicked on and stayed on. when i tested it today it was all the way from the T by the compressor cover. i might referance by the map sensor just so i get meth for now and figure out where im possibly getting a leak from for the wastegate referance.