jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

went back out and cranking it kills all my guages and my power wire is getting hot, the main one for my battery when cranking. this is a different ipdm so it seems i might be having the issue i had before and i just thought i had fixed it, but dint really. injectors show nothing to one side and ground to the other but click a relay on the ipdm when i check the one side that shows ground. this crap is driving me up a wall.

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

at this point im not even sure what i can do without a consult-II i dont think this is anything ive done and im really thinking this is more of the issue i was having before, since when it died before i could occasionally get it to start but for the most part it was dead im tempted to just tow it and have it looked at by someone with more tools then myself since i dont think theres anymore i can do at this point.

konrad

iTrader: (15)

damn that sux, I hate electrical problem, I have a 2001 audi TT as my daily and the electrical problems I get are making me want to sell the damn car , and then 3 days later its all good

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

think im gona pull the valve covers off and doulble check everything vs the pictures on jwt site(since i have the jwt flywheel.) . attempting to take pics i believe it is correct but ill just double check. i followed the fsm though for installing the cams and it checked out alligned the marks on both cams with the painted sections of chain(brand new ones) then rotated several times and the marks lined up like they should on each side(exhaust and intake lining up) then set the cams with the marks on intake sprocket like the picture said and then aligned it with the crank on painted links. so everything should be good, the one thing that had me slightly worried though is the painted link for the crank sprocket did not line up perfectly. it lined up on the edge of the painted link(or it looked like from above) moving it slightly the next place it rested was the other side of the painted link, never in the center like the other ones(not possible setting it exactly in the center of the painted link wouldnt allow it to seat and it would just fall off), ended up putting it on the edge of the painted link closest to me. even if this was slightly off i would imagine i would still get some injector pulse.

i know for a fact that the flywheel isnt off, it had all the bolt holes and then on the back side it had a single hole not all the way drilled through which lined up with the locating pin on the crank, only goes on one way so i know that isnt the issue.

konrad

iTrader: (15)

I think that might be the problem. if the Cam signals and crank signals dont align perfectly it will not start. 1 tooth off on the crank will throw the crank position sensor off

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

i imagine i would still see fuel pulse of some sort though mayby not enough to start it but something, but im gona take a look tomarrow.

im not getting anything not even a sputter or backfire the injectors are simply not doing anything. mayby hal can take a look in here and see what he thinks tomarrow as well hahha.

konrad

iTrader: (15)

page 377 in EC section of the service manual

konrad

iTrader: (15)

when I first skipped timing, coz my oem pulley cracked in half and chipped the crank key. I was cranking and not getting anything. I dont remember if I had fuel or spark. I think I was getting spark but no fuel

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

yah thats how it looks when i was trying to look back there bank 1 is getting ready to come up on the sensor and bank 2 is pretty far behind really not thinking thats it. mayby ill try a small hand mirror before i tear it apart. code reader would be useful, i might order a cipher cable if z1 actually refunds my money like he said this morning.

all i can do is check, also gona try my multimeter, having the wife pick up 9V's while she is at the store, battery is kind of low though and with how long the ecu has been unplugged i would think the dtc's are cleared but i dont know, everything goes out while cranking so im not sure if that has something to do with it. i know normally the lights go out but never seen the guages turn off.

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

just took a look again and cams appear to be right on ill take pics tomarrow if i can. mayby faulty sensors? i know i had similar issues before(sometimes wouldnt start, die shortly after starting) in addition to the ground issues. i honestly am starting to think they are two seperate issues the hot power wire only seems to happen when i crank the car(so possibly something in the starter is shorted but it can still crank?) and then a seperate issue stopping it from starting.

i can leave the key on and everything is fine with the power wire, it dosnt experience heat issues till cranking, and considering the length and the time spent cranking mayby thats just my imagination and the previous issues i had with the poped fusible link was due to how i had the power wire(it was hooked up to the empty post on the fusible link holder instead of where the battery normally attachs when it poped) i need to figure out the fuel thing first right now.

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

actually finally found the diagnostic fsm for these so ill take a look tomarrow, so dumb they arnt in the fsm as fuel injector just injector so i looked forever before finally finding it. getting clicking from ipdm though so i would thing harness should be good, i dint mess with anything before that.

also not everything dies when cranking battery light and brake light stay on and occasionally the other lights flutter but everything else dies

konrad

iTrader: (15)

You said you aligned the cams right but the crank didn't , I'm thinking if there is timing issues it would be the at the crank, if you skipped 1 tooth at the crank then the cams will still read correctly but the crank will be off by a tiny bit. If you had access to a 3 Chanel scope you would check it really fast. I think jwt had some instructions to checking if things are aligned properly. I would check thay first.

Also you can check the sensors with a multimeter folowing the FSM

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

yah im gona just start going through everything one at a time and see if i can figure this thing out, i am just worried that something crazy is going on and everything checks out. its just really weird that the injectors are not firing at all, im going to check the others out as well but by how it dosnt even sputter or attempt to start im going to go with they arnt firing either.

the worst part is i have modified so much stuff it can be anything, or it could be something i havnt touched.


edit update: seems on other nissans the crank sensor does indeed control the injectors as well as the spark so im going to pull the number 1 plug and coil see if that is firing. since i knew the fuel injectors wernt working i dint bother with spark. i really need to get a code reader to see what pops up while cranking >.<

str8dum1

iTrader: (11)

you do have the injectors turned on in the haltech, right?

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

Yah but ill double check i didnt change anything outside the new external map sensor in the settings

konrad

iTrader: (15)

You might get spark but no gas if crank Is off on timing

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

well i went and checked on lunch, injectors are on but i thought i was getting a rpm signal which i apparently am not. later im going to check the crank and cam position sensor and wiring. if it checks out ill pull the valve covers and check the cam timing again where i can actually see it.

if i put the cams in out of whack(mayby 180 degrees out?) im going to go beat my head against a wall for making such a stupid mistake lol. admittedly thought the fsm isnt that great in instructions so there is a posibility they are 180 out ill have more details mayby tomarrow.

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

actually now that i think about it i think the cams are indeed out of whack. i was running through the fsm last night and dint think of it until now. the fsm lists the driver bank as bank 2, everything i have ever done the driver bank is bank 1, so its possible i used the wrong marks for the cam sprockets................ can anyone confirm which marks where used for the driver side, circles or ovals?

thinking a bit more clear now that im not so damn tired and not wanting to look at the car anymore.

konrad

iTrader: (15)

I'll tell you when I get home from work. But i would think you would hit the pistins with valves if it was that.much off

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

Dont think so if i used the wrong marks(more i think about it the more i think i did) then it should be the cams 180 out, and since i was looking at the banks listed in the wrong way then they would appear correct(since i would be thinking im looking at bank 1 but really looking at bank 2.) If they are 180 out then the valves will still open the same in relation to the piston just on the wrong stroke which is probably kicking a code in the ecu but i dont have a reader.

Edit: actually thinking about it i dont thing the intake came can be 180 out since theres only one dot to line up the intake cam sprocket im gona have to test the sensors