konrad

iTrader: (15)

driver side uses oval passenger side uses circle
driver side is left bank, passenger side is right bank

Looking back at what you wrote , you said that the crank marker didnt align in the middle. If it skipped by a tooth then that would be the problem

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

yah i did those correctly then gona test the sensors probably tomarrow tired today and have some homework to do. then ill pull valve covers and take a look.

this is how it looked when i put the chain on it was impossible to align it in the middle because then the chain wouldnt be able to seat it could only seat on of these ways i went with the left picture


i wouldnt think that would be such a issue to cause problems but who knows. im wondering if the sensors being in the plastic with the lifter buckets, top portion of the cam caps and bolts. or if the crank sensor might have gotten damaged moving the trans and engine around since i just unbolted it and used plastic wire tie to hold it out of the way especially since there is a tsb for all three on the 03's which i have no idea if they have ever been replaced.

for both pics though the crank pulley dosnt move i just suck at drawing. the dot on the crank pulley just isnt stamped on there so it settles in the middle of the painted link like the cam pulleys.

konrad

iTrader: (15)

could just be the sensor, I know when I did my timing 3 times, and than swapped heads for someone the damn chain was tight as **** on the water pump side ,and didnt want to align. So I gently turned the cam to make sure it aligned, It worked every time, but then again I always had the whole front end taken out of the way including the radiator and condenser

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

also just went down and checked and found the root cause of the problem. the sensors are not getting power OR ground. gona go stare at the wiring diagram now, cant be power or ground to the ecu because i have no issues connecting when the key is powered on.

trying to track down joint connector 4 at the moment ground and power both run through there
JC4 looks ok ill have to do more tomarrow, try and figure this out, the engine grounds both are showing ground as well as the ground for jc4, thinking mayby broken wires somewhere

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

well it apparently is still the ipdm or ipdm harness. after moving it around a bit the car fired right up, idled filled it with coolant, had a neighbor ***** it was too loud and woke his son up idling (?????? the srt10 truck we have pull in every night is louder then my **** idling), oil pressure was kinda high at 90 but no biggie the squirters are deleted and settled down to about 35 at idle when it warmed up. running straight 30 weight with comp cams break in additive, got it to operating temp sounded good but having clutch issues the rjm braket is all the way to the top and i dont think i can adjust the clutch adjustment arm out anymore and dosnt seem to be disengaging all the way so that will have to be looked at. it was backed up just coasting back in neutral and when i pulled forward there was a big clang for just a second because i just blipped the throttle to pull forward. scared the **** out of me and im praying to god thats not rod knock. i cant imagine it is at under 2k with no power and it didnt continue when i let off, alot louder then any rod knock ive ever heard, and i dont think there are metal shavings in the oil. i pulled it ou and looked theres nothing truely visable theres some small something that might be metal or it it might be the oil catching the light, oil is clear though but i need to wait till its light out to do anything. there was one bigger piece that could be bearing but it also could be anything it was the only viable piece and there should be more if its a spun bearing

definitly scared shitless right now especially since the rotating assemble only took about 4 ft lbs of force to turn with everything torqued down in the short block and rings on the pistons well under most engines ive done, hoping it was mayby the clutch fork or header or something like that.

oh yah and by loud im talking like drop a 22oz or heavier hammer on a sheet of steel sheet metal, engine still sounds fine though at idle..............

KingBaby

iTrader: (3)

Scary stuff hopefully nothing that would set you back too far...

How did it idle afterwards?

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

idled fine and sounded like nothing happened, considering the issues im having with the clutch i could see it being in there, like the fork or something came loose(no idea how >.<) and possibly hit the trans shaft im not sure.

if its something simple like that then i just need to find the wiring issue and fix that and the car should be good.

im thinking it could mayby even just be clutch chatter? never had a clutch that would hold this much power before let alone from a full face, so mayby thats the noise i heard again wont know more till tomarrow.

RJM Performance

iTrader: (2)

Jerry,

Sorry to hear your having issues with your new build.
I'll see if I can't help you out with the clutch issue... When you say you set the RJM pedal all the way to the top are your referring to the AFP setting on the slider?
If so then you need to lower that setting towards the bottom. With the slider bottomed out (towards the floor) the stroke of the master cylinder is exactly the same as the factory pedal assembly. I refer to this as 0% AFP setting.
If you are all the way to the top then your currently at 100% (slider moved up all the way closest to the pivot point) which is far too high. By Raising the AFP setting to you are effectively reducing the stroke of the master cylinder which is the opposite of what you want if your having disengagement issues.

If not and you are actually at or near 0% (Same stroke as the stock pedal) and you still can't get disengagement then there is likely a lot of air left in the clutch lines and will need to be bled again with a pressure bleeder or the reverse bleed method forcing fluid up from the slave cylinder to the master cylinder reservoir. The final possibility if not air or the above is the clutch fork pivot ball. If this wasn't replaced/upgraded during the clutch install with a new one then it could be going bad and eventually fail with a heavy pressure plate clutch. One customer I know of complained that his engagement point kept dropping lower on him and he needed to keep adjusting it further and further to maintain disengagement. Finally one day he pushed the pedal and heard a loud POP and the pedal went limp which turned out to be a failed clutch pivot ball. The theory being it was slowly bending over or yielding under the force causing the engagement to change until it finally snapped off.

Just a few thoughts for you.

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

Ahhh ok i had it backwards when adjusting it, to try and get better clutch engagement ill work on it more later. It very well might need bled or it could just be the clutch fork not perfectly aligned no idea. But i dont think its your bracket haha

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

clutch issue fixed, brakes are hard now though like they dont have vacuum, i unplugged the pump and sealed the port see if mayby it was leaking there and wasnt. so not too sure there gona try mayby see if theres a pinhole somewhere or whats going on. the noise at the front wasnt there except when i tryed to move the car and sounds like its coming from the front of the engine, a definite clicking that increases with rpm but dosnt get much louder if at all. cant tell if its cylinder 1 rod bearing, power steering pump or alternator so going to pull the belt off and see. there dosnt appear to be any shavings in the oil checking the dipstick though

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

def not rod knock, pulled belt off and noise is gone, think it might be tensioner i pulled it apart to spray it down with wd40 when i had a hard time loosening it before, noticed it sits about 1/4 inch behind the other pulleys so i might have bent it loosening it before or who knows ill replace it and see where that goes. for the brakes ill order a new line for behind the false firewall see if that fixs it since the pump dosnt seem to be doing much and actually making the brakes worse not sure what else it could be since i didnt change anything else.

also think the initial loud clank i heard was the vacuum pump kicking on and pulling the bottom two mounting bolts through the firewall.

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

FINALLY she is running, brakes where because the pressure sensor for the pump was too small creating a restriction. clanking was the idler puller/tensioner pulled it back apart cleaned it and lubed it with grease instead of wd40 and went right away. gotta get a new t bolt clamp for the intake charge pipe where it connects to the throttle body i uhhhh snapped it while looking for a small oil leak dripping on the driver side. think it was the dipstick not all the way in since it was on the headers and block above the oil pan but front cover and oil pan except for under the dipstick was dry(although it seemed like alot for that, another thing im going to check tomarrow. also before i did that ive a exhuast leak somewhere because the most boost i saw was 4th gear at 5 psi. im guessing probably the headers at the three bolt flange but ill check tomarrow at the hobby shop when i get it on a lift.

djamps

iTrader: (1)

Whew glad it's not rod knock and you got your clutch figured out.

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

yah when i first heard it i was like omfg how the hell when i just barely pulled it forward. then had the wife idle it and sounded like a rattling up front lol i can tell you this though once it started the weird knocking sound from the tensioner it sounded JUST like rod knock i almost cryed till i pulled the belt off.

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

ok well belt issue was somehow the crank bolt loosened a little so added red thread locker and torqed it to about 40 lbs instead of 30. got a small oil leak ive gotta find somewhere its due for first oil change(25 miles) so when i take it to hobby shop and get it up hopefully i can find it. going down the highway i managed to blow the plug out of the y pipe right before the turbo i had another though lol.

tail lights when out, no signal from ipdm but my dash lights and head lights had no issues so its not the switch i think the used ipdm i got is bad also so i just cut the ignition wire i had going to the brake vacuum pump since im not using that now and wired it to the output on the ipdm so i know have auto tail lights and parking lights. since ive had so many issues im gona save up and pick up a painless harness and legitimately slowly rewire the car and use toggle switchs. this will let me ditch abs, bcm, ipdm, and pretty much everything i dont like.

street tuning it now so hopefully in the next month or so ill be able to dyno it.

KingBaby

iTrader: (3)

you gotta bring it by my place!

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

ok will do just not today, wife is at school and i have the boy

binder

iTrader: (8)

The torque setting for the crank bolt is 30ftlbs then you turn the bolt a few of those hash marks which ends up being about 2/3 more of a bolt turn. So it actually ends up being near 90ft lbs. it's quite a bit of force and a nightmare to break loose.

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

missed that part, its not coming loose now though i just had the horrid miss problem that i think might be fixed now. cleaned out the little plug of rtv out of the variable timing solenoid, leaned my idle and cruise afr's and added 6 degrees timing to my entire map and cleaned it up pretty good. the engine is definitly craving more timing with the 8.0:1 compression, im actually producing a little boost in 4th gear under part throttle now, around 2-3 psi, with 0 knock(well i get a couple counts here and there but i think its resonance from the exhuast since it does get kinda bad around 3000, plus it was there with less timing same number of counts right about 5-10 when it happens.)


map was pretty low though idle and cruising had like 12 degrees and my boost and upper rpms went as low as -2 degrees base timing, copy through was a no go as well setting my own spark helped way more then using copy through i just dont think it was generating enough pressure with the low compression. the bucking i had this morning is completely gone and only get a slight pop her and there for miss fire. pretty sure the only reason i even hear it is because im listening for it, def dont feel it.

it definitly picked way up with the extra spark, gona keep tuning it and hopefully i dont have any more issues ive got to tune out how it wants to die at when cruising and then suddenly pushing in the clutch or taking it out of gear. or find someone with cipher/get my own to bump up the idle a bit.

binder

iTrader: (8)

copy through on the vac map is only pushing 12* timing? something isn't right there.

My entire vac map is set to copy through and it runs in the 30's for timing when cruising. when i made a mistake and accidentally filled in those copy through cells and made them static timing my car ran like complete garbage and would stall every time i pushed the clutch in.