When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Got the car out today - I fixed my cold-start tables and maybe it helped maybe it didnt?
The car fired up pretty quick and still needed a little pedaling to hold idle. After 30 seconds the idle caught and it did fine...I'll get into the maps and play with cold-start maps.
got the car to pavement and put about 10miles on it was a little more aggressive with the throttle and boost. Pushed the car up towards 70% throttle (I know I know - nothing to write home about) and got up into a whopping 4psi of boost. Did about 8 pulls of this and (with no boost control solenoid active) it dawned-on me that I (likely) have the low-boost springs ... rated at 6psi and I'm likely suffering some elevation loss and only seeing 4psi on the gauge. JGS included mid-boost 8 to 10psi but I may order the high boost springs.
Ambient air temps were around 50 degrees and I had a hard time keeping the ECTs above 140degrees but ran the car up to 210degrees at the garage...fans cycled and brought temps down. All good.
On a separate note - been working on the flatfloor undertray ... I'll get some pictures uploaded soon
Due to exhaust pressure across the turbine you'll always see a little less boost than the springs are set to by around 1-2 psi. The pressure pushes on the waste gate port pulling on the actuator while the boost pushes the actuator.
Glad you're making progress, but stop sending the Arctic Express to ATL. Headed to C & O at 31F! Gl!
white-out snow storm last night at 8pm, left 3" of snow … right now, day after 100% melted, 60degrees, sun-shinning
Originally Posted by aarrgghh
Due to exhaust pressure across the turbine you'll always see a little less boost than the springs are set to by around 1-2 psi. The pressure pushes on the waste gate port pulling on the actuator while the boost pushes the actuator.
doesn't elevation play some factor in this? I'm not too too worried about this other than knowing it's there. Id like to put a few hundred miles on the car at 3psi of boost before I bump up to 10psi spring. I may be limited to a 10psi spring (without boost control …hmmmmmm??) I'd like to get into the 20 to 22psi range...
Finally cracked-open the datalog and according to the Link I hit 5.2psi of boost pressure!! Now I dont feel too too bad about the 6-8psi spring in the waste gate.
I had a few instances of knock in areas of the datalog you wouldnt expect (a few around 1400rpm and 2500rpm and all at single digit TP % and all in vacuum) not gonna freak out over them but I dont know how to explain it. Then in areas of boost I had some recognized knock but nothing that would suggest detonation.
Other than that, working on the undertray and a 30lb package is coming in very soon. Might take the car into work on Thursday or Friday.
Forgive my silly q, doesn't your stand alone recognize knock and retard timing?...
It does - (I'll upload a screenshot)...The link has a threshold table that ignores any knock under a given value for a given RPM … sorta a lock-out if you will.
From there once knock is recognized you can trim each cylinder's timing based off a 3d table of RPM and boost/load.
and this table is 100% blank...I have pretty safe ignition timing values where I shouldn't be anywhere near detonating. Hence my surprise when I had a spike for no reason.
It does - (I'll upload a screenshot)...The link has a threshold table that ignores any knock under a given value for a given RPM … sorta a lock-out if you will.
From there once knock is recognized you can trim each cylinder's timing based off a 3d table of RPM and boost/load.
and this table is 100% blank...I have pretty safe ignition timing values where I shouldn't be anywhere near detonating. Hence my surprise when I had a spike for no reason.
I have to admit I admire your cajones flying by the seat-of -your-pants! Are you running an AEM wideband FailSafe? (asking for a friend )
Originally Posted by Conway_160
Knock down that low in vacuum sounds like false knock. I wouldn't worry about it.
lol ... nah ...no AEM fail safes ...I should dial back timing in the knock table … sorta foolish to leave them blank. To my defense, my ignition timing is stupid safe
top circle boost and when I was getting into the throttle / lower circle shows some minimal knock values … then you see other spikes of knock … especially when the car was cooling down (far right)
Knock retard setup … Any knock below the 'Knock Target Table' is ignored but once the knock climbs above that user-defined value, each cylinder has a trim table that will be activated based on load and RPM.
Welcome to the weekend ... got notification that the hatch came in...so I went and picked it up...all sorts of stoked for this one. It's been one of those pieces that I've had my eye on for years and couldnt find it used or didnt have the cash. Picked up a bunch of side-welding, did the turbo kit on the blue z, sold a bunch of stuff out of the garage, and parting out the black Z and saved up enough...
My initial impressions is that it's pretty kickass. I was worried that seibon was gonna use high-end dry carbon fiber for the shell and mild-grade fiberglass for the underlying structure but it's 100% (or at least 100% from what I can tell) dry carbon fiber. Without glass/lexan is between 14lbs and 15lbs. I speculate that lexan will be in the 6lb to 8lb range. I have a piece I was gonna use for the previous 'rescue' hatch and it's 13lbs for 1/4" and I may drop down to 1/8" or 3/32". I thought the carbon fiber weave would have come through the resin a little more but it's 100% smooth.
A productive Saturday - weather was pretty nice - mid 60s - ok...so all those shooty days - this 'starts' to make up for it ... put a round trip to the store (25miles total) on the car and it did fine. I wasnt as agressive on boost as before but hit that 5psi mark a few times. I did a quick once over on the data log for the 12mile trip to the store and did Link's Mixture map and all the cells were within 2% of my AFR targets. Nothing for the trip back. TBD.
I copy/pasted the warm-up tables from the base-map, and it's better, but it still wants to die after start-up...so I might have to tinker with the warmup/post start maps.
got my faux-pa headlights cleaned/taped/painted - painted them with a can of kylon matte white ... not too sure how I feel about them but we'll see - might repair to better match the OEM paint...we'll see. (I did weigh them and they are 2lbs - stoked!)
Happy Sunday everyone! I hope everyone is staying healthy.
plenty to be happy about over here...
I had a very productive morning and picked up some exterior parts (doors and fenders) that I am either going to tinker with or sell. Theres a guys down in colorado springs that has a set of wet cf doors ... the OEM doors all in are around 52lbs total. and I think the cf variants all in are around 20 to 25lbs. So we'll see ... he is awfully proud of them and wants an OEM hatch, OEM doors plus cash.
Got the car out for about 45minutes of driving ... put about 10-15minutes of easy cruising to get it warmed up and up and going and then did some harder pulls.
Two issues that I fixed this past weekend:
#1 - LSU 4.2 widebands have a factory tuned resistor in them. When I hard-wired them I bypassed this resistor and completely rendered the sensor useless. Luckily, the Link saved my bumm. The sensors were out of the normal reading range and the link allows a default value to be assigned (which I put at 1.0 lambda / 14:1). I knew something was wrong because my AFR gauges were stuck between 14.6 and 14.8. Luckily I saved the pig-tales of the AFR sensors and measured the resistance (was around 95ohms, in a spectrum of 30 ohms to 300 ohms) and I mimicked this resistance with some electronics components I have.
#2 - the JGS waste gates operate very similar to how a tial waste gate operates ... but the vac lines are opposite - I hooked my boost reference line to the bottom port ... so my waste gates wereacting properly at 5.2psi of boost (from my previous drives). So I hooked the boost reference to the top port and during my test drives today was able to hit 9psi around 4700 RPM at 57% throttle ...
My senses are dulled because I havent driven this car aggressively in 18months but damn it was fast. I looked down and saw my boost gauge near the 10psi mark and freaked out and lifted! I'm secretly excited to see how this does when it's tuned and when I can push more boost.
The 9psi run was the highlight - the other runs were well under / closer to the 5psi range and all under 5k rpms.
Got good data to further contour the fuel map.
One issue experienced, my water methanol lines are leaking. I switched my hoses and fittings over to the snow-performance lines/fittings and they are leaking at the fittings ... so I put an AEM fitting in place and I think it's sealed.
got into the Link to get my warm-up maps behaving better ... I have to pedal the car to keep it running the first 90 seconds or so. So added some fuel to the post-start enrichment, and warm-up tables and they are better but they are pretty rich ... I'll continue to dial them in. The car fires up with ~2seconds or so ... such a distant memory of the Haltech and the dreaded hot-starts!
The next big thing will be dialing the knock control on the Link. It has a pretty intuitive feature to assign and adjust knock control to where the link gives a visual readout of knock and used with audible knock detection it'll make tuning ignition much easier and less complicated. The Link will also dial back ignition when the knock threshold is exceeded and theres a handful of user-defined parameters to do this. HPA has two really good webinars on the subject so I re-watched each a few times.
Alot of 'self-tuning' software use this same concept but I've been warned (from the HPA guys) that it's no substitute for slopping ignition timing tuning. I'll post more on it as I get through the process.
Likely going to wrap the hatch ... I am gonna get about 15 samples of different shades of pearl / glacier / pikes peak white from Metro-Restyling ... if I can find something close I'll be wrapping the hatch. More on this later.
can't wait to see the progress pics and vids. Especially the dyno
yea! Im saving up for the dyno and a few other smaller things between then (new windsheild, hood, lexan, wrap).
But making progress non-the-less...
Been working on a a small front splitter, flat-floor, and rear diffuser - nothing crazy like time attack or le mans but something to block off the airflow from the undercarriage of the car ... I'll post pictures once I'm done.
Also chopped the rear bumper to accommodate a diffuser. I initially like the look and I think the diffuser will compliment the look.
The alumalite panel here is a rough-cut - it's been since wildly cut & trimmed down
Got the OEM hatch off the car and test fitted the carbon fiber hatch. It fit pretty damn-well and nothing that can be adjusted out by adjusting the OEM hinges.
I'm not 100% satisfied with the plasti-dip color match and my next best (non-permanent) option is to wrap it. I jumped on Metro Restyle and picked up 11 samples of glacier white squares. Gonna narrow down a shade/style and order a sheet for the hatch. If all goes well I may wrap the entire car ... saw some fun textures.
)
