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Saw this on copart and have been spying it last few weeks. I made a healthy amount of cash off the black parts car and I think have the parts remaining to swap in a new subframe and new suspension on the red one (off the black car). Details say it starts, runs, drives and the only damage is undercarriage and it's a salvaged title so lets see how this plays out if the frame is bent I’ll part everything out … might start a new thread.
The z sounds nasty!! I love it
are you selling the aluminum y pipe back?
Thanks! Nah … I might need it if I put a traditional exhaust back on the car. It wouldn't be hard to fabricate, $100 in 4" aluminum, $120 vibrant aluminum muffler, some cuts & some welds!
If you want me to fabricate you one I will but it may be sorta expensive...
$100 to $150 in 4" aluminum
$20 Aluminum V-band flange
$120 aluminum muffler
+/-$30 each weld (would probably need 8 to 10welds)
$100 to $150 in shipping
Thanks! Nah … I might need it if I put a traditional exhaust back on the car. It wouldn't be hard to fabricate, $100 in 4" aluminum, $120 vibrant aluminum muffler, some cuts & some welds!
Not hard for you to reproduce.....Most of us will never have your skills..
we have a saying at work that the first step to welding contaminated aluminum is to put a loaded gun in your mouth and pull the trigger lol
I'll be working on something and it wont be going well...
I stop, I grind the tungsten and hit it with acetone. I usually clean my filler with acetone as soon as I pull it from the tube but I'll usually hit it again with a clean rag and acetone. I then wire-brush the aluminum(I'm welding on), hit it with acetone, re-wire brush, re-clean with acetone. Take the welder, dial down my amps, crank up the balance (it's positive on my everlast machine, but I think it's negative on millers/Lincoln/thermals) and balance clean. hit it with the wire brush and hit it with acetone...usually that does the trick ...
Ahhhh hell...
two **** things...
My bottom radiator hose connection has basically cut loose ... the AN fitting is no longer sealing and coolant leaks pretty bad ... I noticed my reservoir was empty ... pain in the nuts.
I lost my 'layout' file for the Link ... didnt lose any tuning data but how my pages look are set back to Link's default ... frustrating...
Bealjk, you’re the reason I bought a AC/DC welder. And the reason why I’m a better person. 😆
nice to see you back rustychopshop. 👍
so why do you want to buy mine!?!?!?! lol! Go and fab one up! Let me know if I can help in any way!
Rusty has been back for a long time! Where have you been?
I fixed the coolant hose but I dont have much confidence in the repair and I may need to purchase a different fitting. I rebuilt the hose and added RTV to the mating surfaces. So we'll see, it only sees 18psi so it might hold just fine. Regardless, I'll continue to keep an eye on it. I did the work yesterday and the instructions call for 24hrs cure. I got a heat-light on it and I'll look to fill it tomorrow afternoon.
I started fabricating a in-cab laptop holder. I can't remember what I did with my previous one but I'm happy to re-fabricate it.
Why did I want ur exhaust? My welds look like smeared silver toothpaste and your aluminum exhaust looks pro fabbed. Lol
I haven’t been on cause I had the exhaust cam phaser problem and was too broke to buy the needed gasket kits when I tore into it. By the way, I still haven’t found the problem yet. ..
if I recall you have an hose going from the rear water neck into an bung into the radiator. It’s a really nice setup. I wonder what caused the failure.? Did you weld a an bung to the rear before the turn? I have a rev up and got the pathfinder rear pipe. So I have to remove the rear pipe just to replace the ex cam sensor. How did you weld the cast aluminum hard pipe? I really want to copy ur set up while I’m at it. Currently have the heads open to replace retainers.
Oh please! on occasion, when the planets line-up I can put down a good bead...other than that, I'm a newb.
Originally Posted by tran251
haven’t been on cause i had the exhaust cam phaser problem and was too broke to buy the needed gasket kits when i tore into it. By the way, i still haven’t found the problem yet
You'll get there! Sometime a cam or crank position sensor problem can be the best teaching tool known to man-kind.
Originally Posted by tran251
If i recall you have an hose going from the rear water neck into an bung into the radiator.
Yea, the other hose also came out of that fitting a few months back. So I cut off the bung and extended it to about 15" from the radiator.
The hose is coming loose from the fitting - the angle on it is rough and I think it heat cycled and cut loose. I may have to replace the hose. I'm gonna see how this goes. The hose is locked via the threaded fitting, RTV'd to the fitting, and is pushed into the fitting - So I hope this does the trick. If it doesnt I may go rubber hose and hose clamps or buy new hose (this 1.5" steel braided hose isnt cheap! Luckily I'd only need 2 to 3 feet)
Originally Posted by tran251
Did you weld a an bung to the rear before the turn? I have a rev up and got the pathfinder rear pipe. So i have to remove the rear pipe just to replace the ex cam sensor. How did you weld the cast aluminum hard pipe? I really want to copy ur set up while i’m at it. Currently have the heads open to replace retainers.
Yeah, I had an AN-20 bung on the OEM hard pipe before.
OEM cast welds ok as long as you clean with acetone (inside and out) and then balance clean and wire-brush it well .. it doesnt come out the best but it does hold.
See post #989 on page 20 (of this thread for the revised coolant pipe layout) - copy away! Nothing I did is proprietary! If you make any improvements to it let me know so I can incorporate them into mine!
I also ditched the OEM gaskets and used RTV to seal the coolant hardpipe to the heads. I also put 6mm studs in the heads and tighten a nut against them so that there's minimal to no chance of stripping out the threads in the heads.
Gonna get my boost control setup. The solenoid is out of the car but everything is wired. Just need to install, hook up hoses and wire in.
Also came across this little gem in the link software ... it's called 'vehicle plan' I assume all the fields will be updated in live-time as you drive the car. Other than a pretty picture I dont know if it serves anything other than an overview - not much is programable (other than off or on).
I wish I had your tuning knowledge, its the area I'm most lacking in and mistakes in the tune can be expensive
I appreciate the kind words. In the realm of tuning and engine performance I'm really not that advanced ... call me a sophomore. But I do my best to be a little bit smarter every day/every week/every month/every year.
(I've probably said it before, but) You're only as successful as your five closest friends ... and if you take it figuratively the underlying meaning is that you should surround yourself with people whose shoes you want to be in, in 1yr, 2yrs, 5yrs, 10yrs ... with that being said, if you want to learn how to tune, surround yourself with respected tuners. If you want to learn how to fabricate, surround yourself with fabricators. If you want to race a car, surround yourself with race car drivers.
Tuning mistakes are only expensive when you are running the engine fast (high RPMs) and/or high boost. The best thing that I did was explore (at the time) my piggyback haltech. It was guidance from a very smart member here (if I remember correctly - Aaron Silenced Eyes) who said just get the car up and going and make small changes to fuel, ignition, compensation maps and just see how the car reacts. No engine is going to explode if you add or subtract 1% of fuel or a degree of timing (especially at low load / low speed).
In low load and low engine speed you can do very mean things to the engine and it doesnt care. With the Link G4+ you have to calibrate the knock detection and the only way to do this is purposely make the engine detonate/knock ... albeit, it's at 2k rpm and 1psi of boost ...
Also - there is a healthy amount of good (free) information from a few trusted resources. I really like HPA and thats where I do most my learning.
check these free basic lessons out ... a few hours of free content. With that being said, do use caution on who you trust on the internet for tuning advice.
and obviously keep up-to-date on the forum and other reliable sources of info.
Today is Sunday ... and an overall productive day. Around 12noon the transport driver called to let me know the red nissan will be delivered later in the afternoon. It took some finagling but we got the car off the transport. I attempted to start the car and the battery was dead. Had to do small business stuff and had to leave but when I got back I re-attempted and jumped the battery with my pickup to no-avail. Went back to basics and maybe Copart drained the fuel? So I put 5gallons of fuel in the tank. Removed the glove box trays and I can hear the fuel pump prime so I can only assume I'm getting fuel pressure. I also sprayed the air filter and inside the plenum with starter fluid and nothing. I'll see about swapping crank-shaft and cam-shaft position sensors in to see if this is the issue. After that I will check spark but I can't imagine all the plugs are bad.
Spent early saturday evening enabling the Link's boost control and setting-up a few basic tables (will run open-loop control for simplicity) and because my waste gates are sorta backwards (compared to Tial's) I will be running the boost controller off the top chamber. Which makes more sense to me but is backwards from how most are setup. I also like this because I can remove the vacuum line off the bottom chamber.
Needed to reposition the boost control solenoid to the driver side and work off the boost reference fitting right before my TB. For what it's worth I dont have 1/8" NPT / AN -4 fittings and they arent readily available so I trimmed the AN -4 fittings down and straight epoxied them into the BCS. Sorta jenk but I dont really care.
Needed to turn-over and/or mini-start white nissan to circulate coolant (as I can refill the radiator/block now). Got about 1/2 gallon in and needed to crank the engine and surer-than-**** the starter would not turn over...checked the obvious things and still nothing. I started tracing things back logically and I wasnt getting 12volts to the signal wire...and got in to the IPDM and decided to reference the FSM and used their checklist to trouble shoot. Took a while but made it all the way to the end and the last check was 12volts on the signal wire and when I tested, it pushed 12volts ... reconnected and the car started.
For the red car- did you check to make sure you had spark at your spark plugs? For the life of me I can't remember what NATS disables, Fuel or Spark. Fuel seems like the most logical because you don't want fuel to just chill in the cylinders.
For the red car- did you check to make sure you had spark at your spark plugs? For the life of me I can't remember what NATS disables, Fuel or Spark. Fuel seems like the most logical because you don't want fuel to just chill in the cylinders.
You know how they say start simple...yea, I didnt... I added 10gallons of fuel, checked fuses, checked relays, charged the battery. My landlord (master diesel mechanic) brought his fancy snapon scanner (the one that can launch a space ship) and picked a few codes (one of which was P0340 - pass side cam position sensor). Nothing crazy...then he flipped it to take data while I cranked ... and for some reason the scanner powered off as I cranked. His infinite wisdom took him to the battery. And it was connected but was not tight...We tightened the battery connection and the car started. The engine sounds good and I'm pretty excited for the car. I love throwing it revs. I havent had an NA DE in 12years or so ... so the VQ's rubble is welcome!! The subframe doesnt look damaged - more the camber and toe arms.
I got the white car out wednesday and thursday this past week. Wednesday I had to make a trip into the office and a buddy and I met-up to do a quick informal cruise and a little picture opportunity ... He wanted to roll some video of my car too. But getting the car out I've had some very difficult drives where the car does not idle consistently and will die out. Once I'm up and going it does fine (more on this below)
Thursday afternoon I meet up with some VQ facebook buddies and we did a driveby for a special needs high-school senior's birthday - I have no idea who this guy is other than his dad said he loves the cars & coffees but bc of corona he has not been out. So a group of us rolled to his house and it was a complete shot-show - no joke, I bet there were 2,000cars in this guys neighborhood to do a happy birthday driveby. Cars were lined up to get into the collector streets around the neighborhood and overflowing onto the main 6lane arterial roadway. It was nuts! I didnt even blink and immediately bailed - I was still having my idle issues and my car doesnt do well in stop & go.
cut to saturday afternoon ... I've gather the idea to solve this idle issue ... its very strange (I probably brought it up before) but a few week ago I had the car out and idling and at ECT temp 149 the car died twice in a row ... at 149 degrees ECT. Posted it up on the Link forum and got good feedback and (at the time) thought the problem went away.
Cut to wednesday - the car is running like complete junk under 2k rpms and above 180degrees ECT ... under 180 degrees the car is fine. Car is pissing black smoke and I gotta pedal it pretty good to keep it idling.
I'm super frustrated and rebuild all my ignition, fuel, and compensation maps from my 568hp / 17psi greddy TT tune (circa 2018) and thursday comes around and the car is running better. I'm thinking the problem was in my fuel map or warm-up map. But the problem comes back and persists after the engine heats up and below 2k rpms.
Also, unrelated, my IAT sensor crapped out and was giving crazy readings - luckily it's just a GM temp sensor and I was able to get a replacement pretty easy.
Saturday comes and I pull the car out of the garage start it up and it idles just fine up to 180 degrees and the second it hits 180 it dies. I tinker with each of the post-start and warmup maps in the Link, along anything that is ECT related ... I had 6 data logs where the car started around 90 degrees ECT and died at 180 degrees ECT. I'm frustrated as hell and the only thing I can think of is upload my tune and these data logs to the Link forum and see if anyone can help.
I then pull up my idle tables (which includes my cooling fan) and surer than **** my cooling fan is set to come on at 180 degrees! and that's the f'n issue ... when the fan comes on I am not giving it enough compensation fuel to maintain the idle and it dies. And, I'm not sure if there is a bigger/underlying issue here. But I did two iterations of the cooling fan activation at 170 and 200 degrees and both instances the engine died at the fan-activation temp.
Moving forward - either I need to dial in the fuel compensation to maintain idle while the fan is on or I need to make a switch and activate the fan manually.
with that figured-out, I wrapped up fabricating a laptop holder for the cab of the car - came out alright.
Have you checked the alternator and fan wiring. Seems to me like it is a voltage drop causing the car to stall out. Don't see how the ecu would kill the engine with just a little fan draw load. If was a mechanical fan, could see needing more fuel/up idle. Alternators even though they have more resistance as more power is required shouldn't stall an engine unless not producing enough power.
Have you checked the alternator and fan wiring. Seems to me like it is a voltage drop causing the car to stall out. Don't see how the ecu would kill the engine with just a little fan draw load. If was a mechanical fan, could see needing more fuel/up idle. Alternators even though they have more resistance as more power is required shouldn't stall an engine unless not producing enough power.
I'm not 100% convinced this is the 'real' issue. there may be something else out there that is influencing this and the fan is just the 'scape-goat' of the issue. How can the turning on of an already under-sized single fan cause an issue all of the sudden...I just need to dig into it.
I agree with you, it's a voltage drop that is stalling-out the engine. The solution to this is to add fuel to the cooling fan step - which essentially adds a percentage of fuel to the fuel map while the fan is on. I'm gonna chase this issue and see if I can add fuel when the cooling fan kicks on. I had my fans turn on early bc I was worried about over-heating ... but I will bump them up to like 205degrees. I should go back and use Link's default post-start and warm-up map values seeing that they were not the issue.
Originally Posted by rustyschopshop
Alternators even though they have more resistance as more power is required shouldn't stall an engine unless not producing enough power.
are you suggesting the alternator might be going out?
How will adding fuel to the map when the fan switches on help? The engine is not dying from leaning out but rather it cannot make enough torque at idle to spin the alternator with the increased load. The alternative that sounds more likely is that there is a wiring issue, control issue in link, too high of current draw, or possibly a poor fuel injector mapping/latency tables that are no longer accurate when the voltage drops and causing a lean or rich condition.
Can you see the throttle body open when the fan kicks on to attempt to maintain the target idle rpm? Can you log the change in ms open time of the injectors and see the change as the voltage drop occurs with the fan? Are the fans pulling the right amperage on startup? Are your battery terminals tight? These are just some thoughts that come up.
