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I had my boost reference hooked up to my to the top chamber of my waste gates plumbed through my boost control solenoid and the bottom chambers opened to atmosphere. Essentially - my waste gates use a pretty soft springs (like 4psi springs) and I was pushing 100% (or whatever duty cycle the solenoid dictates) of my boost reference to the top chamber to keep them closed at higher than spring pressure. Well, they want them plumbed in the traditional sense.
That harness looks so much better.
With your WG like that it seems that you are relying on the exhaust back pressure as the only method of opening them. That is an interesting setup. I definitely agree with the shop that you need reference to the bottom chambers of the WG. I look forward to seeing this thing put down some numbers.
I wonder if you have been running on 5 cylinders basically this entire time. That's almost 20% right there.
Yea - relying solely on back pressure … I was opening them around 4psi before … so I don't know. But they are fixed - it's a better plumbing. I also dropped in the bigger (8psi to 10psi) waste gate springs yesterday
Finalized the harness and did a few rounds of checking/double checking the harness to injector connections and then bolted everything back up.
Did you get this thing back together and to a dyno. I am super curious how it does with all 6 cylinders!
I've got a call into the tuner and I have had the car out two or three times … I've been crazy busy with work and the performance/fabrication shop stuff that I haven't done much of anything!
Update - They are crazy busy and are prep'ing for an event in St. Louis - so they asked if I could wait until Sept 7th (which I'm cool with) … between now and then continue to get the car cleaned up...
a few thoughts …
I'm probably gonna be looking at buying a house / property in the next 12months so I am gonna be funneling 'car money' into 'house money' … I guess I gotta grow-up?
Gonna put a traditional battery back in the car … might trunk mount it … we'll see...
A buddy has me just about 100% convinced to trunk-mount my radiator … once again, we'll see...
I'm probably gonna be looking at buying a house / property in the next 12months so I am gonna be funneling 'car money' into 'house money' … I guess I gotta grow-up?
When you buy your house, I HIGHLY recommend the following:
1. Walk around with the home inspector and ASK questions.
2. Get a HVAC person to inspect the HVAC system.
3. Check for open permits on the house.
If you got questions call me, I'll tell you how expensive a new A/C unit is for a house... :-(
Conway - it may not be for a while … in reality, I am not going to buy anything before the elections and if a certain party wins I'll probably continue to grow my down payment and wait for the economy to crash … the Denver market is ridiculous - we're essentially turning into California
On a brighter note - I did get the car out and put 20miles on it, filled up the tank, and let the car stretch her legs...I was able to hit 8psi which I believe is 100% waste-gate spring and no boost control solenoid. When I got home and after running the car some-what aggressively the last few miles I took the temp-gun to the exhaust runners and each runner checked-in between 280 and 300 degrees … I think this is a good indication that all 6 cylinders are firing but I'll probably pull plugs and do a double check.
I did the oil fill cap check the late last week and I had the freak-out moment and had a light but definitely present white milky'ness on the oil cap...I didnt want to immediately freak-out without reason (it could just be condensation) ... With my tune coming up next week I bit the emotional bullet and did a compression test and a spark plug inspection to ensure cylinder #4 was getting fuel ...
well all good news ... compression came in
#1 - 112psi
#3 - 115psi
#5 - 120psi
#2 - 120psi
#4 - 120psi
#6 - 120psi
and all the spark plugs came in a little bit on the hot / lean side but nothing I am freaking out about ...
I ran the engine for about 20minutes and got it up to 225degrees and checked the oil cap again and it didnt show any signs of milky'ness.
I ordered supplies to rebuild the ignition coil connectors and VTC connectors and harnesses (will likely do this over the winter). Wont be an easy task like the injector subharness is but I can't stand the look of the OEM harness wrapping around the front of the engine ... one step at a time.
I’m glad your engine is fine, I know the feeling of having your heart sink into your gut when you blow an engine. Went through the same thing last week with less than joyful results
I’m glad your engine is fine, I know the feeling of having your heart sink into your gut when you blow an engine. Went through the same thing last week with less than joyful results
for sure ... (my experience) I bought a Import Parts Pro stage 3 block back in the day and obviously expensive and definitely a process. From 2009 to the time I spun that bearing in 2018 I was very intimidated about blowing the block or hurting the engine and it would be dooms day when the engine let loose. The drive I spun the bearing on I was freaked out and practically shaking as I limped the car home as I was so nervous ...
I soon realized that the most frightening thing was that I have never disassembled / reassembled an engine before ... I have a little experience from HPA on engine rebuilding and I know my way around the factory service manual and as soon as I got into it, was able to be super organized, cleaned stuff as I took it off, took pictures, etc it wasnt that bad and if nothing more it was very fulfilling ... dare I say that fear of blowing another block isnt that big of a deal anymore ... the worst part of it would be the cost to buy new parts/machine parts and the time to rebuild it.
nope ... Im schedule for next week - gotta call on the 28th. If they push it off again I'm gonna ask for my money back.
since last we spoke ...
Giving up on the 11lbs battery ... but I'm mixed feelings ... I ordered a 22lb braille and a day later I got a new ford SUV/Truck 650cca battery ... I am tempted to send the 22lb battery back and get another 11lb battery or even go ballsy'er and drop down to a 9lbs or maybe go up to a 15lb?? Not 100% sure but essentially something for track / event use and use a normal 40lb battery for daily use.
My battery dash light is on and a good good buddy said it's likely the alternator ... so I picked up another alternator and I'm hoping to get it installed before the tune.
And a little inherent issue with the Link ECU (heads up Old Man Z) is that the OEM ABS control module and the ECU dont get-along at start-up ... so the traction control module kicks-itself into error-mode and illuminates the SLIP and VDC lights ... well, the issue has been brought up to the Link community and they've developed a work-around by installing a 5pin relay on the power line of the ABS that cuts power for a second and gives the Link ECU a headstart to sync-up with the ABS control module. Parts are ordered and I'm waiting for them to come in.
Other than that just running the side hustle known as Unknown Performance ... building turbo kits, exhausts, tuning, welding, fabricating ... all the fun stuff!
for sure ... (my experience) I bought a Import Parts Pro stage 3 block back in the day and obviously expensive and definitely a process. From 2009 to the time I spun that bearing in 2018 I was very intimidated about blowing the block or hurting the engine and it would be dooms day when the engine let loose. The drive I spun the bearing on I was freaked out and practically shaking as I limped the car home as I was so nervous ...
I soon realized that the most frightening thing was that I have never disassembled / reassembled an engine before ... I have a little experience from HPA on engine rebuilding and I know my way around the factory service manual and as soon as I got into it, was able to be super organized, cleaned stuff as I took it off, took pictures, etc it wasnt that bad and if nothing more it was very fulfilling ... dare I say that fear of blowing another block isnt that big of a deal anymore ... the worst part of it would be the cost to buy new parts/machine parts and the time to rebuild it.
Yeah I kinda stopped caring after I blew up the last block and later on a blower. Damn rod bolts...
Got the car out the last few days and doing some basic fuel trim tuning and I pulled-up a table to monitor my VTC Duty Cycle, VTC Targets, and VTC position and around 11pm I conclude that my Drivers Side VTC isn't working … Could be a few things - bad wire connection, bad connector, bad solenoid, bad sensor, bad VTC gear, clogged filter, bad seal...
Check all the easy stuff - inspect the wire, connector is connected, it's getting voltage, I swap on a new solenoid, I check the sensor using Link's trigger-scope and everything is fine...
it's around midnight now (and knowing that I am set to tune next week) and I gotta get into this and figure it out. My secondary thought is that the mini-filter within the VTC gear is clogged and not allowing oil to pass through … and it's gonna be impossible to replace the gear without taking the timing chain case off … but maybe I can service the gear through the port hole?? take the cover off the gear and clean things up this way … so I remove the cover and **** - the rubber o-ring is essentially destroyed … put another one in, buttoned everything back up and it's good to go! Soooooo relieved!
still having VTC issues ... My VTC offset is off and the VTC is being goofy on the driver side and non-existent on the passenger side ...
Also, hat-tip to Conway, for remote-diagnosing a failing alternator. I swapped a new(OEM used) from another block that came through the garage and battery light is off. Voltage essentially reads the same 14.4 to 14.5volts while running...but the DTC light is gone!
still having VTC issues ... My VTC offset is off and the VTC is being goofy on the driver side and non-existent on the passenger side ...
Also, hat-tip to Conway, for remote-diagnosing a failing alternator. I swapped a new(OEM used) from another block that came through the garage and battery light is off. Voltage essentially reads the same 14.4 to 14.5volts while running...but the DTC light is gone!
have you measure the coil resistance of the cam solenoids to confirm they are still good? You might take the solenoids off and blow compressed air through the supply and return ports on the bracket, if the gasket tore there might be particulate matter stuck some where. Just my 2c hope you figure it out
have you measure the coil resistance of the cam solenoids to confirm they are still good? You might take the solenoids off and blow compressed air through the supply and return ports on the bracket, if the gasket tore there might be particulate matter stuck some where. Just my 2c hope you figure it out
Both banks are measuring right at 9ohms and I put 12volts on it and it's clicking. I may just put a second solenoid on to 100% confirm. It's really weird but my trigger offset may be causing this issue and I reset it within the Link but my passenger side bank isn't responding to any duty cycle I put in my VTC table where the drivers side is responding. I dropped an alternate set of VTC position sensors in and the problem persisted. I am going to chase the signal wire next. The Link has some neat run time features where you can monitor the triggers and my passenger side isnt getting a signal and maybe that's why it isn't reacting with changes in duty cycle.
Remember your numbers should go up with a warm engine. So, don't fret over these numbers, besides that they look very good only 6 psi difference between high and low is amazing.
I'm assuming have traced all the wires from the VVT solenoid back to the ecu? Have you swapped the solenoids them selves from left to right (I believe they are the same)to see if the problem follows,
removed the solenoid and cranked the car over to make sure you actually have oil flowing up to the solenoids.
