Another built motor Vortech dreamer thread.
There have been people with a similar setup, 6 rib with a TimRod Radius Rod hold to 26psi.
That said, if I were to do a Ysi I'd go to a 10 rib serp and a much wider Cog.
It's not a simple as just changing out the pullies. Also the crank, PS, tensioner and Alt pullies would need to be custom made. And this is leaving the SC'er in about the same place. I put some work into this a few years back. It's about $2500+ for the custom pullies and you would also need 10 rib idlers, but those are available if you look hard enough.
I'd also think about a tandem Bracket setup much like a mustang YSi kit, but I must say with solid motor mounts and a TimRod Radius Rod the stock bracket becomes pretty stout!
That said, if I were to do a Ysi I'd go to a 10 rib serp and a much wider Cog.
It's not a simple as just changing out the pullies. Also the crank, PS, tensioner and Alt pullies would need to be custom made. And this is leaving the SC'er in about the same place. I put some work into this a few years back. It's about $2500+ for the custom pullies and you would also need 10 rib idlers, but those are available if you look hard enough.
I'd also think about a tandem Bracket setup much like a mustang YSi kit, but I must say with solid motor mounts and a TimRod Radius Rod the stock bracket becomes pretty stout!
I don't understand why, but nobody on here has tried the pulley coating, and that has made all the difference in the domestic 6 rib cars.
The radius rod is scary to me, because you're solid mounting a plate connected to the engine to the chassis. The amount of flex I saw on Josh's voretech bracket scared me, and I think that we need to look at that seriously. Solid mounts or not, you're fixing a dynamic piece to the chassis, and that generally isn't good. Fortunately it helps with the flex that is already happening, but in general that much tension against the crank is not healthy either.
I think that getting more grip at the pulley is totally do able with larger pullies+coating, and higher rpm to compensate. Will it make boost as quickly? No. Will it have as aggressive of a torque curve? No. But the reduced load against the bearings will be worth it in my book. I'm going to be attempting this on my car, and I think that just going around preaching "TIM ROD RADIUS KIT" is silly, and not the only way to skin the cat.
Larger pullies make the actual grip needed on the pulley surface lower, as you have a larger pulley to turn the s/c etc (greater force multiplier), and increased friction will always always help. Increased belt tension is always a help too, but when you've got so much tension in the belt that you're causing this fat piece of aluminum to flex back and fourth, causing more belt slip, that's not good for the crank. It's not good for the bearings. It's not a proper solution.
I hate to be that "d!ck" on the internet, but it needs to be said.
Hay Josh, read this thread. Funny, after the post today on you thread.
https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...00whp-z33.html
https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...00whp-z33.html
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New Member
iTrader: (23)
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From: greenville, sc
Did some Things today..
Mocked this up today. Everything fits pretty good. Has good clearance. The black piping is because I ran out of the shiny stuff. But is all 3". Just need to go by and get it welded up to get rid of the couplers.
Mocked this up today. Everything fits pretty good. Has good clearance. The black piping is because I ran out of the shiny stuff. But is all 3". Just need to go by and get it welded up to get rid of the couplers.
Look we've heard the fckn tim rod radius plug a million times. FFS Josh has one. I know you've done a lot for the vortech z community, and I commend you on it, but the radius rod is not the perfect solution.
I don't understand why, but nobody on here has tried the pulley coating, and that has made all the difference in the domestic 6 rib cars.
The radius rod is scary to me, because you're solid mounting a plate connected to the engine to the chassis. The amount of flex I saw on Josh's voretech bracket scared me, and I think that we need to look at that seriously. Solid mounts or not, you're fixing a dynamic piece to the chassis, and that generally isn't good. Fortunately it helps with the flex that is already happening, but in general that much tension against the crank is not healthy either.
I think that getting more grip at the pulley is totally do able with larger pullies+coating, and higher rpm to compensate. Will it make boost as quickly? No. Will it have as aggressive of a torque curve? No. But the reduced load against the bearings will be worth it in my book. I'm going to be attempting this on my car, and I think that just going around preaching "TIM ROD RADIUS KIT" is silly, and not the only way to skin the cat.
Larger pullies make the actual grip needed on the pulley surface lower, as you have a larger pulley to turn the s/c etc (greater force multiplier), and increased friction will always always help. Increased belt tension is always a help too, but when you've got so much tension in the belt that you're causing this fat piece of aluminum to flex back and fourth, causing more belt slip, that's not good for the crank. It's not good for the bearings. It's not a proper solution.
I hate to be that "d!ck" on the internet, but it needs to be said.
I don't understand why, but nobody on here has tried the pulley coating, and that has made all the difference in the domestic 6 rib cars.
The radius rod is scary to me, because you're solid mounting a plate connected to the engine to the chassis. The amount of flex I saw on Josh's voretech bracket scared me, and I think that we need to look at that seriously. Solid mounts or not, you're fixing a dynamic piece to the chassis, and that generally isn't good. Fortunately it helps with the flex that is already happening, but in general that much tension against the crank is not healthy either.
I think that getting more grip at the pulley is totally do able with larger pullies+coating, and higher rpm to compensate. Will it make boost as quickly? No. Will it have as aggressive of a torque curve? No. But the reduced load against the bearings will be worth it in my book. I'm going to be attempting this on my car, and I think that just going around preaching "TIM ROD RADIUS KIT" is silly, and not the only way to skin the cat.
Larger pullies make the actual grip needed on the pulley surface lower, as you have a larger pulley to turn the s/c etc (greater force multiplier), and increased friction will always always help. Increased belt tension is always a help too, but when you've got so much tension in the belt that you're causing this fat piece of aluminum to flex back and fourth, causing more belt slip, that's not good for the crank. It's not good for the bearings. It's not a proper solution.
I hate to be that "d!ck" on the internet, but it needs to be said.
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New Member
iTrader: (23)
Joined: Jan 2010
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From: greenville, sc
With the different pulley setup I'm doing now, blower should be spinning around 67k if I rev up to 7500 with this 3.12 pulley. Have a ati crank pulley on the way thanks to Cux. Only thing left to buy is the 27t blower cog. Have my piping at my friends getting ready to be welded up.
Edit, blower will actually be spinning around 71k at 7500rpms. I forgot I have a different jack shaft cog, just redid the vortech calculator.
Edit, blower will actually be spinning around 71k at 7500rpms. I forgot I have a different jack shaft cog, just redid the vortech calculator.
Last edited by meanz; Oct 8, 2015 at 08:12 AM.
With the different pulley setup I'm doing now, blower should be spinning around 67k if I rev up to 7500 with this 3.12 pulley. Have a ati crank pulley on the way thanks to Cux. Only thing left to buy is the 27t blower cog. Have my piping at my friends getting ready to be welded up.
Edit, blower will actually be spinning around 71k at 7500rpms. I forgot I have a different jack shaft cog, just redid the vortech calculator.
Edit, blower will actually be spinning around 71k at 7500rpms. I forgot I have a different jack shaft cog, just redid the vortech calculator.
With a new belt, I can get a bigger belt on, but the tensioner does not provide enough tension. With a belt that "should" fit well, it's feels impossible to get the belt on with the tensioner all the way down.
And OMG, that piping is just sex.