rcdash v3.0 (by Dynosty)
05-09-2013, 05:20 PM
#61
I have SPL midlinks in the rear with SPL toe arms (eccentric bolt delete). I have SPL A-arms v3 in the front, which allows adjustment of caster and camber.
Last edited by rcdash; 05-09-2013 at 06:35 PM.
05-09-2013, 05:26 PM
#62
The RE-11s are not bad and in a 305 width, 30 profile is not that skinny... Does anyone have a better recommendation. It's the best all around tire I've ever used (yes I've tried R888s).
I was thinking that taking out one side and throwing on a GTX3071 might've been a nice complement to the 2867. They are similar enough that a single boost control solenoid could still manage both wastegates (I think)... I started this whole process with the GTX2867s and everything else followed. It ended up nice, but I still feel I have too much low end torque than is usable for a RWD car. I like the spool though.
I was thinking that taking out one side and throwing on a GTX3071 might've been a nice complement to the 2867. They are similar enough that a single boost control solenoid could still manage both wastegates (I think)... I started this whole process with the GTX2867s and everything else followed. It ended up nice, but I still feel I have too much low end torque than is usable for a RWD car. I like the spool though.
Last edited by rcdash; 05-09-2013 at 06:49 PM.
05-09-2013, 07:09 PM
#63
I will share the alignment specs, once I get them. I asked for 0 camber in the rear and -1 in the front with toe to provide best straight line safety (I believe this is slight toe in rear, no toe in front but I deferred to their suspension expert).
I have SPL midlinks in the rear with SPL toe arms (eccentric bolt delete). I have SPL A-arms v3 in the front, which allows adjustment of caster and camber.
I have SPL midlinks in the rear with SPL toe arms (eccentric bolt delete). I have SPL A-arms v3 in the front, which allows adjustment of caster and camber.
Thank you for sharing.
As for tires, I really like my AD08's. It was between them and the RE11's, but the RE11's didn't come in 295, so the AD08's were the "only" choice (in my head at lest).
Last edited by Boosted Performance; 05-09-2013 at 07:11 PM.
05-10-2013, 08:30 AM
#64
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widest street tire
WRT
"The RE-11s are not bad and in a 305 width, 30 profile is not that skinny... Does anyone have a better recommendation. It's the best all around tire I've ever used (yes I've tried R888s)"
I run 315R30x18s on the rear of my G , 0 rear camber (via SPLs).
Yes the 0 camber makes most of the difference.
On a G this is pretty much the absolutely wide as you can run without a adding a wide body kit. Spacing is really tight to about +/-5mm. But no rubbing whatsoever with a 1.5" drop and all cornering conditions.
I use PS2s for DD and R888 for track. The R888 grip like glue but wear quick an loud on the street as everyone knows.
So seems your limiting "width" factor seems to be the more limited selection for 19s.
"The RE-11s are not bad and in a 305 width, 30 profile is not that skinny... Does anyone have a better recommendation. It's the best all around tire I've ever used (yes I've tried R888s)"
I run 315R30x18s on the rear of my G , 0 rear camber (via SPLs).
Yes the 0 camber makes most of the difference.
On a G this is pretty much the absolutely wide as you can run without a adding a wide body kit. Spacing is really tight to about +/-5mm. But no rubbing whatsoever with a 1.5" drop and all cornering conditions.
I use PS2s for DD and R888 for track. The R888 grip like glue but wear quick an loud on the street as everyone knows.
So seems your limiting "width" factor seems to be the more limited selection for 19s.
05-10-2013, 11:04 AM
#65
I was thinking that taking out one side and throwing on a GTX3071 might've been a nice complement to the 2867. They are similar enough that a single boost control solenoid could still manage both wastegates (I think)... I started this whole process with the GTX2867s and everything else followed. It ended up nice, but I still feel I have too much low end torque than is usable for a RWD car. I like the spool though.
05-10-2013, 04:37 PM
#66
The SPL midlinks explain it all. Nice piece of hardware, and I think the main reason you are able to get 0 or close to 0 camber in the rear, with a eccentric bolt delete. I am trying to get the same specs with camber arms and the SPL eccentric bolts/washers.
Thank you for sharing.
As for tires, I really like my AD08's. It was between them and the RE11's, but the RE11's didn't come in 295, so the AD08's were the "only" choice (in my head at lest).
Thank you for sharing.
As for tires, I really like my AD08's. It was between them and the RE11's, but the RE11's didn't come in 295, so the AD08's were the "only" choice (in my head at lest).
WRT
"The RE-11s are not bad and in a 305 width, 30 profile is not that skinny... Does anyone have a better recommendation. It's the best all around tire I've ever used (yes I've tried R888s)"
I run 315R30x18s on the rear of my G , 0 rear camber (via SPLs).
Yes the 0 camber makes most of the difference.
On a G this is pretty much the absolutely wide as you can run without a adding a wide body kit. Spacing is really tight to about +/-5mm. But no rubbing whatsoever with a 1.5" drop and all cornering conditions.
I use PS2s for DD and R888 for track. The R888 grip like glue but wear quick an loud on the street as everyone knows.
So seems your limiting "width" factor seems to be the more limited selection for 19s.
"The RE-11s are not bad and in a 305 width, 30 profile is not that skinny... Does anyone have a better recommendation. It's the best all around tire I've ever used (yes I've tried R888s)"
I run 315R30x18s on the rear of my G , 0 rear camber (via SPLs).
Yes the 0 camber makes most of the difference.
On a G this is pretty much the absolutely wide as you can run without a adding a wide body kit. Spacing is really tight to about +/-5mm. But no rubbing whatsoever with a 1.5" drop and all cornering conditions.
I use PS2s for DD and R888 for track. The R888 grip like glue but wear quick an loud on the street as everyone knows.
So seems your limiting "width" factor seems to be the more limited selection for 19s.
I don't see why you can't tune around it with a separate street map. Not just wastegate PID but with timing and throttle mapping to lessen the blow. It's not like you would be missing out on the power, save the current map for track and dyno days ect. I would have full confidence in a pair of bias ply's on a nice track.
It's always good to have an upgrade path and I am seriously, not complaining!
Last edited by rcdash; 05-10-2013 at 05:40 PM.
05-10-2013, 06:25 PM
#67
Yes, it has multiple maps. I just think I jumped the gun with the gtx2867 as others have had very good success with the gtx3071 with minimal lag. I think I would've hit 800 whp at redline with one of those in there and maintained the same spool down low! Perhaps I'm being greedy though. It's always good to have an upgrade path and I am seriously, not complaining!
It's always good to have an upgrade path and I am seriously, not complaining!
05-10-2013, 06:32 PM
#68
Again, not complaining, but I went into this shooting for the flatest, widest torque curve Dynosty could manage. I think Hal did a great job with those turbos. The pump gas map is perfect. I just feel I needed a bit more mass air to optimize operation under e85. Hal indicated he would've been happy spinning this motor to 8500 rpms. No point though as the turbos are definitely at the end of their efficiency island.
Without sleeves, this is probably a good place to leave this. Car arrives tomorrow!
Videos coming soon 
Without sleeves, this is probably a good place to leave this. Car arrives tomorrow!
Videos coming soon
Last edited by rcdash; 05-10-2013 at 06:33 PM.
05-10-2013, 07:11 PM
#69
need to go to a smaller wheel and more sidewall, going to 305/35/18 will only add .2 inchs tire height but add 1.2 inchs total sidewall(.6 inch all the way around.). be similar to running a 355-375 width 19 tire with the tiny sidewall you have. personally i love my r888's they handle my 600 whp tune with just a tiny bit of wheelspin in first none in second and up if i heat em up first9305/35/18 size), if you can go to 17's def go down to that sidewall is infinitely more useful then width just look at the outlaw 10.5 guys, planting 2k whp with a 275 tire, 4 link helps but a huge part is the massive sidewalls.
The RE-11s are not bad and in a 305 width, 30 profile is not that skinny... Does anyone have a better recommendation. It's the best all around tire I've ever used (yes I've tried R888s).
I was thinking that taking out one side and throwing on a GTX3071 might've been a nice complement to the 2867. They are similar enough that a single boost control solenoid could still manage both wastegates (I think)... I started this whole process with the GTX2867s and everything else followed. It ended up nice, but I still feel I have too much low end torque than is usable for a RWD car. I like the spool though.
I was thinking that taking out one side and throwing on a GTX3071 might've been a nice complement to the 2867. They are similar enough that a single boost control solenoid could still manage both wastegates (I think)... I started this whole process with the GTX2867s and everything else followed. It ended up nice, but I still feel I have too much low end torque than is usable for a RWD car. I like the spool though.
05-10-2013, 07:57 PM
#72
Yep, 355 mm rotors. 4 piston, ST-41s I think. If you know of any decent wheels that will fit and clear, please let me know.
Here's what the current wheels look like (would be nice to get something that wouldn't clash horribly with the fronts):
Here's what the current wheels look like (would be nice to get something that wouldn't clash horribly with the fronts):
Last edited by rcdash; 05-10-2013 at 08:03 PM.
05-10-2013, 09:38 PM
#73
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How much clearance do you have between caliper and wheel right now? If it's less than 1/2", probably out of luck. I'm sure you wouldn't want to shave down such pretty calipers, either.
05-11-2013, 06:16 AM
#75
05-11-2013, 08:01 AM
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Hey Raj. Your build turned out great! The power curve is amazing. Hal is a great tuner. Im glad the headers we built you, worked out so well. I like the vbands.We were considering setting up our kit with them but you will be surprised by how many people cant understand the concept of lining up vbands properly and how things wont fit corre tly downstream of those conne tions if things are not clocked right! Haha.
I see others are chiming in on your build but I wanted to ask a realistic question about your build and the time length. How many custom parts were built for this project as those things do add to the time especially if you wanted Hal or Greg to make them? And how many times did you change your mind on things you wanted done. Lol.
Tim
I see others are chiming in on your build but I wanted to ask a realistic question about your build and the time length. How many custom parts were built for this project as those things do add to the time especially if you wanted Hal or Greg to make them? And how many times did you change your mind on things you wanted done. Lol.
Tim
05-11-2013, 08:30 AM
#77
^ Thanks Tim. I'm glad you make these high quality turbo headers available to the community.
In regards to your question, I have learned to stay the course and not make changes. Any change, no matter how small can have unforeseen consequences and all bets are off for hitting whatever the original target date for completion was. The suspension (and then cup kit) I added at the 11th hour is a perfect example of me not following my own advice. The crew had to send parts for machining twice before it came out perfect. Nothing is ever easy! You know this but many customers don't see all the little glitches, issues, and workarounds required. From the customer perspective, of course, I hate waiting. Not driving a car you love to drive is painful. Trying to be patient is painful. Not knowing if your car is getting the love that day is painful. The best advice I have for the shop owner is to communicate (I know it's a balance between getting work done and talking on the phone but it's easier to wait if you know you'll get a call at the end of the day or end of the week). For the customer, I would say submit a list in advance and don't make any "elective" changes! Sure some things unexpected occur and you have to make decisions, but WAIT for the next season before adding that one last mod!
I am very happy Dynosty hit my ZdayZ target!!
Yep, yep, that is all still there. Was just seeing what wheel/tire options may represent feasible upgrades for the street...
In regards to your question, I have learned to stay the course and not make changes. Any change, no matter how small can have unforeseen consequences and all bets are off for hitting whatever the original target date for completion was. The suspension (and then cup kit) I added at the 11th hour is a perfect example of me not following my own advice. The crew had to send parts for machining twice before it came out perfect. Nothing is ever easy! You know this but many customers don't see all the little glitches, issues, and workarounds required. From the customer perspective, of course, I hate waiting. Not driving a car you love to drive is painful. Trying to be patient is painful. Not knowing if your car is getting the love that day is painful. The best advice I have for the shop owner is to communicate (I know it's a balance between getting work done and talking on the phone but it's easier to wait if you know you'll get a call at the end of the day or end of the week). For the customer, I would say submit a list in advance and don't make any "elective" changes! Sure some things unexpected occur and you have to make decisions, but WAIT for the next season before adding that one last mod!
I am very happy Dynosty hit my ZdayZ target!!
Yep, yep, that is all still there. Was just seeing what wheel/tire options may represent feasible upgrades for the street...
Last edited by rcdash; 05-11-2013 at 08:44 AM.
06-21-2013, 07:24 PM
#78
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06-22-2013, 12:26 AM
#80
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Very nice thread, and build. glad to see success when it comes through. Me I am on build two with a BP kit making 645/615 at 16 psi and have a **** bag turbo that has pooched a thrust bearing. not happy but this success puts a smile on my face as temporary as it is.
Precision is claiming the cause of the failure as either to much back pressure(only at 16psi boost so not sure how back pressure is an issue) or lack of oil( not the case but we are testing to be sure). either way I think I just got a bunk snail and this kind of a read makes me want to strap on a GTX.
Precision is claiming the cause of the failure as either to much back pressure(only at 16psi boost so not sure how back pressure is an issue) or lack of oil( not the case but we are testing to be sure). either way I think I just got a bunk snail and this kind of a read makes me want to strap on a GTX.