Stillen HR S/C
Thanks guys. I think the chargespeed side cowls and paint match door handles made the car. I really like how it's coming together.
Here's the Shine Diffuser:
Here's the Shine Diffuser:
Last edited by Jaxter; Jul 27, 2013 at 06:51 PM.
My cog-pulley experiment is giving me a little grief. My first cog belt only lasted about 150 miles (hard miles). I just installed my second belt, and I'll do my best to take it a little easier until the new idler is built and installed.


As long as I roll into the throttle and shift early, it holds up fine. But it did a lot of damage launching from a stop and shifting at 7000+ rpms. The template is at the machine shop now. I ordered 2 more belts just to be ready in case I shred another one.


As long as I roll into the throttle and shift early, it holds up fine. But it did a lot of damage launching from a stop and shifting at 7000+ rpms. The template is at the machine shop now. I ordered 2 more belts just to be ready in case I shred another one.
Gosh...that looks like your belt is too tight...the cog belt isn't supposed to be uber tight; when it heats up it get tighter naturally...I usually leave some slack on my cog belt...
My cog-pulley experiment is giving me a little grief. My first cog belt only lasted about 150 miles (hard miles). I just installed my second belt, and I'll do my best to take it a little easier until the new idler is built and installed.


As long as I roll into the throttle and shift early, it holds up fine. But it did a lot of damage launching from a stop and shifting at 7000+ rpms. The template is at the machine shop now. I ordered 2 more belts just to be ready in case I shred another one.


As long as I roll into the throttle and shift early, it holds up fine. But it did a lot of damage launching from a stop and shifting at 7000+ rpms. The template is at the machine shop now. I ordered 2 more belts just to be ready in case I shred another one.
I agree. I'd like to loosen it a little more, but that is as low as I can adjust the idler. Any lower and it hits the engine. The shiny edge that is visible on the pulley is where all my problems came from. The smaller idler pulley should give me more room to fine tune everything. This was all pieced together from the Vortech parts bin, so it a lot of trial and error.
Question: Do you have to adjust your idler pulley to replace your cog belt, or is it set up loose enough to just slip it on?
I got my new belt on without moving anything. Just got a full wrap on the S/C pulley. Then I could only get it about halfway on the J/S pulley. So I bumped the starter, and it pulled itself into place. Kinda like how you get your bike chain back on as a kid.
Well, I don't have a Stillen kit, I have a Vortech kit for a Vq35de, so its different, and the cog belt geometry is different...but I do have to adjust/take off my cog idler to install my cog belt...
If I'm thinking of you cog idler geometry properly (your idler is under the cog pulleys, whereas my setup has the idler on top of the cog pulleys) if you get a slighlty looser cog belt that may solve your problems...
If I'm thinking of you cog idler geometry properly (your idler is under the cog pulleys, whereas my setup has the idler on top of the cog pulleys) if you get a slighlty looser cog belt that may solve your problems...
I agree. I'd like to loosen it a little more, but that is as low as I can adjust the idler. Any lower and it hits the engine. The shiny edge that is visible on the pulley is where all my problems came from. The smaller idler pulley should give me more room to fine tune everything. This was all pieced together from the Vortech parts bin, so it a lot of trial and error.
Question: Do you have to adjust your idler pulley to replace your cog belt, or is it set up loose enough to just slip it on?
I got my new belt on without moving anything. Just got a full wrap on the S/C pulley. Then I could only get it about halfway on the J/S pulley. So I bumped the starter, and it pulled itself into place. Kinda like how you get your bike chain back on as a kid.
Question: Do you have to adjust your idler pulley to replace your cog belt, or is it set up loose enough to just slip it on?
I got my new belt on without moving anything. Just got a full wrap on the S/C pulley. Then I could only get it about halfway on the J/S pulley. So I bumped the starter, and it pulled itself into place. Kinda like how you get your bike chain back on as a kid.
Well, I don't have a Stillen kit, I have a Vortech kit for a Vq35de, so its different, and the cog belt geometry is different...but I do have to adjust/take off my cog idler to install my cog belt...
If I'm thinking of you cog idler geometry properly (your idler is under the cog pulleys, whereas my setup has the idler on top of the cog pulleys) if you get a slighlty looser cog belt that may solve your problems...
If I'm thinking of you cog idler geometry properly (your idler is under the cog pulleys, whereas my setup has the idler on top of the cog pulleys) if you get a slighlty looser cog belt that may solve your problems...
The new idler pulley is built. Test fit tomorrow. Then, it'll be anodized and installed for the final tune.

JTran Studios will have the program to cut these pulleys in case anyone needs to buy one later on.

JTran Studios will have the program to cut these pulleys in case anyone needs to buy one later on.
Last edited by Jaxter; Aug 1, 2013 at 06:16 PM.
I'm sure there are more reasons to run one, but I'm learning as I go.
Last edited by Jaxter; Aug 13, 2013 at 07:57 PM.
The new idler pulley is on and the cog setup is making 13 psi at redline. The JTran guys beat on the car for a couple of days and so far the belt is holding up. The final dyno tune pulled about 10 more peak HP out of the car. Johnny worked on a few of the drivability notes I gave him, and the car feels great. I'm going to call it quits right here for a little while and have some fun with it. If everything holds together until this winter, I'd like to step up to the SI impeller and a smaller S/C pulley. Johnny said I have room for another 50 +/- HP before I max out the injectors or MAFs. So, I'm thinking that is about all I'm going to get out of Stillens V-3 Vortech Supercharger without making some design changes.
The kit has turned out exactly as I wanted. The only changes I've made to the "off-the-shelf" tuner kit are: methanol injection and a pulley swap. I am a very happy JTran Studios customer. They even ate the R&D time on this whole cog pulley idea, and I have no idea why. Only charged me for the standard pulley swap time. They have been great since day one.
The kit has turned out exactly as I wanted. The only changes I've made to the "off-the-shelf" tuner kit are: methanol injection and a pulley swap. I am a very happy JTran Studios customer. They even ate the R&D time on this whole cog pulley idea, and I have no idea why. Only charged me for the standard pulley swap time. They have been great since day one.
Last edited by Jaxter; Aug 16, 2013 at 09:35 PM.







