so i am completely stumped, any help at all would be greatly appreciated. let me start off by saying what i have, 2003 track package, stillen exhaust, crawford intake plenum, and a vortech supercharger, thats pretty much all for engine mods, the vortech is a v2, and the whole kit piggyback plug and play pre mapped kit. car runs great no issues, first gear second gear cant keep traction when i shift it into third gear and hit 4500ish rpms goes into limp mode, if i get to 4500rpm in any other gear no issues what soever, but in third gear at that rpm range hits limp mode. I reset the ecu and absolutly fine after that, until of course 3rd gear 4500rpms i have searched and thought about everything and i cant figure out why this is happening if anyone would like to have an impute i would appreciate that

 

Wish I could help but need to have the car. I don't really have any recommendations bc of the just 3rd gear thing is only when it does it.

Who tuned the car?

 

So it happens in 4th and 5th also? I was gonna say that it might not happen because your blowing through 1-2 so fast and by the time your in 3rd, your boosting a little bit longer.. May be a MAF problem. Pull your MAF and check for oil on it . Are you auto or manual. When it goes to limp mode, pull the codes. You can pull then manually at home by counting the blinking light on the dash.

 

Have you seen this Jim Wolf tech note regarding MAF voltage and limp mode?

http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wol...E_4700_RPM.pdf

 

I had the same problems if you cruise nothing happens once you step on it bamm limp mode, disconect batt and problem gone this drove me crazy, throw the piggy back away and at least get a orsiris, I went with haltech and tuned by Dynosty. Working great stock engine at 13 psi.

 

That's it……

What fuel System? Injectors? Pump? CJM? ect…….

 

meanz it only happens in third i tried in fourth and it doesnt limp also i tried slowly accelerating in third past 4500 to redline no pedal all the way down and it doesnt limp, puilled maf put a different one in from a buddies and same issue, car is manual, and it doesnt throw a cel so no codes to scan.

GaryDevans, i just read jim wolfs article very imformative actually and also a not in his research he wrote that it happens more often in cold areas and dense and it does seem to be happening more often in the cold i think in the summer time it didnt happen as often, or at all actually untill it started getting cold and usually i dont drive the car in the cold but sold my winter beater a little to early so this is my only option.

sracura where did you get the orsiris and why could you not tune the vortech piggyback? or where did you get the haltech?

oldmamz350 i am running stock injectors because vortech says this kit is supposed to work fine with stock injectors, i have stock fuel pump but also the kit came with a auxiliary pump that goes into the line that im assuming holds extra fuel when it needs that extra surge of fuel. besides that im pretty much stock because the kit is supposed to work with stock engine.

 

Hey the split second is and old method of tricking the maf, I only used it for 1 week and didn't even want to mess with it to be honest. I purchased and Uprev cable and didn't like it either since I couldn't find a reliable pro tuners here in Germany. I then purchased my Haltech from Dynosty and remote tuned by Hal @ Dynosty.

1. you can buy a Orsiris cable on our market place used or new online.. Google is your best friend.

2. personally I would get injectors, fuel pump, fuel return system, GT maf and a nice Uprev tune.

hope this helps out.

 

Do you still have the split second maybe I could buy if it off you, my biggest issue is just not getting past that 5v on maf besides that fuel delivery works fine. So if I could get the maf to not see 5v I would be golden car runs perfect besides that, just to get me through winter because in summer the maf doesn't get past 5v to make the ecu freak.

 

Isn't there a way to recalibrate the MAF voltage. Maybe a call to JWT?

 

No, sorry I sold it long ago. Find a tuner that can tune it for you it just needs to be retuned.

trust me upgrade the fuel system and Uprev if still not convinced check the countless of post on FI section that will give you of an idea on which route to go.

 

i am considering doing that ive been reading on forums for the longest time, what are the positive effects from upgrading the fuel system? id like a fix for now before i go that route and change everything later on, i dont drive the car much in the winter but when i do i want to run like it should.

 

what are you using for a piggy back?

All you need to do is lower the MAF Voltage in the 4700-4800 Range

Start by changing the Value by -0.1 in this area, thru the full load.

If you are using the Split Second, I can get you there very easy.

If you PM me I can help you out even more.

TimRod

 

Op, this is a good opportunity.. oldmanz definitely knows what he is doing.




[QeUOTE=OldManZ350;10339487]what are you using for a piggy back?

All you need to do is lower the MAF Voltage in the 4700-4800 Range

Start by changing the Value by -0.1 in this area, thru the full load.

If you are using the Split Second, I can get you there very easy.

If you PM me I can help you out even more.

TimRod[/QUOTE]

 

pmed him and currently working with him appreciate all the help from everyone else who had an imput thank you very much