This is why tuners do mild tunes.

 

Also, you don't need a dyno to tune your car.

You start of getting Closed Loop dialed in, then move into Open Loop.

You just go out on the road where no one is around. Start by logging mid throttle/low boost and see where your at. Make some adjustments and the get into it a little harder moving up 1-2psi up the ladder and get a log. And so on.... This is how a Real tuner does it, just on a dyno. This is not Tuning 101, I'm just trying to get you guys thinking......

By the way, My car has been on a dyno just 1 time. I do all my tuning on the street and at the drags.

 

Although street tuning definitely works, a dyno is a controlled environment. Also it's against forum policies to encourage any form of speeding or racing on the street... Eventually you have to do a full power pull in a gear that could get you in a lot of trouble. Not saying I'm afraid of driving on the street, but when you're tuning those are just more things to worry about. I don't know about where you live, but I'd have to do about 45minutes to an hour of highway driving or more real early in the morning to get to a suitable place where I would feel comfortable to do pull after pull after pull for tuning. Not just from traffic, but residents, highway patrol and leo's. You do so much as some tires chirping with a loud exhaust around here, and you'll get at least 3 calls on you.

From what I understand about Hawaii (from people who've lived there, even forum members I know), it's somewhat hard to find a road that would be really worry free to do pull after pull on.

 

I'm just talking about me.

If you don't have quite back roads, with no one around, then don't do it.

Street tuning is good, because it's Real World. And like you said a dyno is a controlled environment.

And where I get the WOT is at the DragStrip, Very doable......

As far as fourm policies, I never said anything about racing or speeding......

Ya, but who am I? It's not like I can back up anything I've been saying.

Oh, did you see my Sign!

 

how do you dial in closed loop before open loop?

Open loop is the base line values (VE or IPW). Closed loop references those values and adds PID correction.

The entire tuning process should be done in open loop. Then you turn on closed loop when you are finished, to keep corrections low (i like +/- 5%)

 

Just to update everyone, I had to buy a Cable from uprev to give them a license report or something in order for my tuner addon to be sent to me. More money spent. The reason why is because I went to my old dyno Tuning shop, Rad Motorsports, and the tuner that was helping me on the car took the laptop and cable with him. Both my race tune and my meth injection tune were on his laptop also. I emailed him on Facebook and waiting to see if he can sent em to me over e-mail. If that doesn't work I'll be starting from scratch. Being soo close to moving to Texas, I think the best move for me is to just read as much as I can on Engine management tuning and get a baseline retune. There is a Tuning shop near Killeen called Hi Psi Performance that has dyno service, so I might as well go there first and have them use my uprev cable and laptop to tune my Z, and if I want to make changes in the tune, I can do so.

 

Forgive me if you already mentioned it, but how are you tuning your timing w/o a dyno?

+1. This is how I tune my fuel on the street. Get open as close as possible, then flip the switch on closed loop with +/- 5% correction on both banks.

 

Not going to give away all my Tuning Secrets! haha.......

I'd like to keep my standing of Stock Block, Full Weight Record Holder for a while.

Apparently, what I'm doing is working.

Put on you're thinking Caps.

 

He's using an SS box. I'm not entirely sure but I think you can only pully timing with an SS box. Either way it's a pretty simple system.

 

tuning WOT is no big mystery. you have maybe 10 cells to dial in on a 16x16 map.

Either you are running MBT or you are not.

Seat time and tire/suspension are bigger factors than just tuning

 

Yeah suspension, flat camber and everything are super important to getting a good slip on the 1320. Most races are won and lost in the first 60ft and that's all out of the hole grip. Probably our chassis biggest weakness.

Tuning a car for driveability vs wot are different things. Having a car poorly tuned for transient values and everything in between on partial load can result in bad results just as much as a bad wot tune. I've seen rings go on a clean wot tune from prolonged low load detonation

 

+1

Most everyone on my350z that has talked about the SplitSecond Box has called it crap and hard to tune....

Now that it's been shown, if you know what your doing it works very well, people now call it Simple!

Lots and Lots of talk on here. How about a little Action from you guys.

Challenge yourshelf to beat a Stock Motor Z down the 1320.

I'll be waiting for you!

 

If I was willing to invest in SPL rear suspension parts, axels, slicks, a cage, and all the safety equipment needed, I'd take you up on that. But I have other priorities I want to spend 5k+ on.

How bout you put stock suspension arms and springs back in, keep the slicks and come to the street?

 

I have stock axles, and the only other suspension modifications I've done are Teins coil overs, front upper control arms and rear cambers arms for alinement.....

Plus I don't race on the street.

 

Theoretically if my car were tuned properly I'd probably snap my axels with slicks...

 

Thanks for all the advice and personal opinions guys, Im just soaking all the good info in like a sponge and reading the Tuning 101 thread. Cable should be here on monday so I can send this License report to Uprev to get my Tuner Addon shipped.

 

Got my Cable today and I just sent my License report up to Uprev to get my Tuner Addon. More waiting.

 

Good luck man. Get a camera rolling incase of carnage, pull over or 1000hp

 

LMBO, no way man. Not out of this stock motor. Ill be satisfied with 450whp/380tq at best if I can make it that far. Still a rookie and still learning, Baby steps...

My exhaust setup had a weak spot which is the OEM HR headers i installed in combination with the Art Pipes. I have an old set of OBX-R Long tubes that have been just sitting here at my bud's house I uninstalled before boosting, The collectors are pretty much junk, but ive seen exhaust shops and read online people making custom collectors and venturi rings on a cheap pair before, Soo that would be a cheaper alternative to this. Still n the air if I will use them or not.

 

The loss from nice collectors to bad ones will be less than the gains you'll have switching to the longer pipes. You might not get awesome scavenging, but it will definitely work. I wouldn't spend more than what the headers are worth on some collectors but it's up to you. I'd just stick em on, and call it a day. At your hp level I doubt you'd really see a difference between nice collectors and not.