I previously had a HKS ST 3582 with log style headers and T3 that was limited to 450 - 490 @ 15psi. I was frustrated with this power especially all the money i spent.

My engine is basically in between Stage 2 and 3 VQ35 Long Block from importpartspro.com

Wiseco Pistons .020 over 8.8:1
Eagle H Beam Rods
ARP Rod Bolts
Block inspected and cleaned
Block redecked
Block modified for HR Headgaskets
Block Bored and Honed using a Torque Plate
Rotating assembly balanced
Crank magnafluxed and the journals micro-polished
ACL Race Spec main bearings installed
ACL Race Spec rod bearings installed
New OEM HR Head Gaskets -> Upgraded to Comtec headgasket (stage 3)
L19 Head studs (stage 3)
ARP main studs
Heads inspected and cleaned
Heads redecked
BC Stage 2 cams
BC Heavy Duty Valve Springs
3 angle radius cut valve job
New OEM Valve stem seals installed
Valve Stem Heights set
Cold Clearance set for cams
Heads assembled
New OEM Rev-up Oil Pump

They say 650-750WHP for stage 2 and stage 3 has different rods and pistons so i guess they are my weak point...

I have added a ATI super dampener to the build.


Other supporting Mods

Fuel
CJM 485/225 Twin fuel basket
-8 supply, -6 return with stainless aeroflow fuel filter.
CJM Rails and FPR
1400cc Five-0 E85 injectors
Haltech Flexi sensor


Cooling
Mishimoto 24 row dual pass cooler
Koyo 54mm radiator with SPAL twin fans in fan shroud
Radiator cooling plate
Pathfinder mod
Samco coolant pipes
Swirl pot

Drivetrain
CD009
Quaife LSD
GTM Custom Exedy Twin Carbon Clutch and flywheel

Upon looking at Boosted Performances Kit and his results i decided i wanted a better system for all my performance parts. He does an amazing job but was not able to do RHD. He is such an amazing guy , he still helped and answered my questions to help build my own kit anyway.

 

Engine out, HKS kit off, Wires wrapped in head wrap.





CD009 trans swap done, built engine going back in





Fujitsubo JDM headers going in





2'ID collector quality





headers mounted





Clearance without AC compressor in. No room for a 2.5" pipe to go through.





The starter motor must be taken out and moved to the other side





The wiring for the reverse sensor and the crank sensor will go above the transmission to get away from turbo and manifold pipe heat

 

Picture of the fabricators welding




Rear view of turbo






Twin scroll Manifold complete





Precision 6466 T4 Twin scroll 1.15 A/R Turbo mock mount





SP housing pics





Turbo mounted and 4" filter fitted





Twinscroll manifold with turbo on and off





Precision 39mm wastegates





Cross over pipe has a mounting tab for the trans to help hold some weight of the turbo





Dump pipes





Inside look at the wastegate flow path

 

Oh man I'm excited

 

2.5" pipe going past the empty spot of the starter motor





Intake pipework





Tial 50mm BOV





3" Intake to the FMIC

I will most likely get this power coated

 

Ok USD Starter motor idea is scraped. Was going to take too much to figure out. In case anyone thinks they want to do it here is what it looks like




So instead of that what is needed is Z1s Adjustable mounts




stock mount





Z1 mount stock height





Z1 mount with 12mm of adjustment





Improved clearance





Improved clearance





Improved clearance





Comparison of mounts stock height





Comparison when adjusted out

So now i can run the RHD starter and the 2.5" charge pipe !

 

3.5mm wall thickness of the charge pipe = heat soak resistant !

 

saved 6

 

Mounting bracket


-8AN now

 

Awesome work man! Looking forward to see it finished.

Get 4 bar map sensor for having enough headroom.

 

interested to see how you go with the starter in the other side. would help me too.

 

Looking great. I would love to do a custom build like this one day. Selling my greddy kit would probably get me enough cash to go at it!

I would recommend aluminum engine mounts before an engine brace. You can make them yourself fairly easily I'm assuming. They would help keep all of your work safe and stationary.

Are you nervous about running your air filter down so close to the roads exposed to the elements?

 

Nicely done. Congrats. Yosip, if he's worried about the proximity of the air filter to ground water, a k&n silicone wrap is an easy fix. Obviously you cannot go through a puddle but it will keep the filter fairly dry and still allow plenty of airflow.

 

I may get this and see if it fits and offers some protection.

Will also add this

http://www.knfilters.com/search/prod...prod=RX-4990DK

 

^ look for a water repellent pre-filter or "filter wrap" or "drycharger" on amazon. I think it will be much easier to fit in that tight spot. Just be careful to get the correct size.

 

Step 1 towards protecting the turbo.




K&N dry cover on





K&N dry cover on





Quality thick vacuum lines to the wastegate

Step 2 will be a metal shroud.

 

This will be 19 row for the kit as the 24 row is too big to fit without modifying the crash bar.





Mount for remote oil filter





All setup





Remote oil feed port





Remote oil filter with series 200 ptfe turbo feed line and sump feed line





Oil Scavenge pump to sump line

 

Some other supporting mods - not all kit related




Passenger side valve cover filter





ATI Super Dampener





Swirl pot





Pathfinder mod

 

It's going to be a big kick in the *** for sure! Looking forward to the new numbers! Even if you roll with 650, that's more than enough to pretty much stomp any car you'd encounter on the street haha.

 

You really should change out your crash bar, look at how much of your fmic is covered up.