Thanks for sharing. This is just for me to have more clearance for my 3 inch piping from the blower. I am running E85 plus I run distilled water + water wetter. So my engine doesn't really overheat. Plus I don't really push the car for prolonged periods of time at full throttle to experience cooling issues.

 

The Mishimoto Fan Shroud I bought got delivered today, will try to install this weekend, ill be sure to post pictures of the piping clearance.

 

Blue,
do what you think is best and take this with a grain of salt - I say this (hopefully it comes off) unbiased and nothing personal - don't take it personal ... but this is one of the main reasons I don't like Mishi but I see problems all over this...

Mishi is taking the effective cooling area of the radiator and shrinking it to the area of these two fan openings. Furthermore, decrease the area of the openings by the obstructions in the path of free air.

When you factor in that most your cooling comes from passive airflow this shroud is essentially choking the airflow off...

alright...that's all I got / end rant ... get it installed, I hope it provides the clearance you need and still keeps things as cool it needs to be.

Give 'em hell!!

 

Thanks man, but my need for clearance was the main focus on my purchase. From what I can see, the fans are interchangeable and can be removed with another 12' fan like Vegasanthony did, if I need to upgrade down the road I can do that.

I believe you can also modify the shroud by cutting openings without destroying the integrity of the part and keep the fans secured. The metal is fairly thin.

 

 

Thanks for the pic example man.

 

sure thing ... update the thread on your progress and your results

 

Well I just got done installing the new Mishimoto fans. Test fitted it with the shroud and it was not clearing enough space for the piping. So to improvise, I removed the fans from the shroud and followed Bealjk's example and fastened them directly on the Radiator with ties and in locations to where the piping wont be obstructed.






Ending result was success for clearance, had about a half inch more wiggle room to maneuver the pipe in its place from the blower.




Test driving the car after burping the cooling system, fans were not what I expected them to be in terms of cooling performance. It was a humid 97 degrees in SC today and in stop and go traffic, it didn't go below 194 degrees once the fans kicked on, which was sad. And even that, it took while to get there, a lot longer than the stock fans would take. But once I was up to speed (45-75mph) the car would settle to 180-182 like normal.


So its a success and a fail. Will definitely look for better 12 inch fans with better CFM ratings and the same size clearance.

 

can you return the mishi fan setup?

I dont understand why people think they're so great...

Jump on ebay and search for a used 12" - 14" spal radial fin'd fan (it'll be 60 to $100)...You may have to get creative with the wiring but they are way better...

May I offer this up on behalf of Mishi...the fans can only do so much if you dont give the airflow a route to escape the engine bay - I dont know what the solution is for you as you're not keen on adding vents (which is ok, just personal preference) ...

this falls apart when you compare the 45mph driving keeps the car cool...just a thought

when I add the obnoxiously large hood vents it just pulls air out of the engine bay ... heat rises from the headers/turbo and at speed the pressure difference pulls the hot air out...

 

Yes, I am returning it to them. I will keep an eye out for used Spals. I'm probably going to stagger the sizes like one 12 inch low profile and one 14 inch high performance fan.

 

would you consider a single fan (of whatever size) if it kept the engine in the correct operating temp? It might solve your clearance issue altogether??

 

Yes I will consider a 16' single fan. I was thinking 2 fans would be better than 1 but if one will be able to cool the radiator off well, I will go that route. There are two fan connectors though. Since you are using a single, did you have any issues/anomalies with the other connector plugged out?


Really appreciate your help.

 

 

Gotcha on the wiring. Thx!


I am running an aftermarket radiator, no name brand but it does a great job cooling with the oem fans + distilled water + water wetter mix. nothing has changed other than the fans, so once I square away this issue I'm sure ill be back to normal or greater cooling capability.

 

if you want my oem fan-side wire harnesses connectors so you don't have to clip yours let me know - I have zero use for them. I can drop them in the mail this week.

 

"Test driving the car after burping the cooling system, fans were not what I expected them to be in terms of cooling performance. It was a humid 97 degrees in SC today and in stop and go traffic, it didn't go below 194 degrees once the fans kicked on, which was sad. And even that, it took while to get there, a lot longer than the stock fans would take. But once I was up to speed (45-75mph) the car would settle to 180-182 like normal. [/QUOTE]"

Sounds pretty good to me. My temps are pulled directly off the ecu and get as high as 220 sitting at idle on a hot steamy day like last week under normal driving & naturally aspirated conditions. They never go below 200 and normally sit around 204 if not at idle too long. This is the normal operating range as I'm sure you know. Probably not wise to go too far out of that range in either direction.
Hope you're liking SC BSDE!

 

Actually I forgot to mention, in uprev I have the fans kicking on at 203 degrees instead of the stock setting which I believe is 217 degrees? Not sure.

Waiting on the Spal 16" fan to get here, should be delivered Monday.

 

One issue, especially in the Z's and G's is the proximity of the radiator to the engine. Not too much room for the extracted hot air from the radiator to be dispersed which makes the fan(s) less efficient. You could do 1 of 3 things to solve this problem.
One would be to route the vortech's plumbing down below all the **** that's in the way which would be good for keeping the pipe from becoming the meat in a hot **** sandwich as it's getting heated by the radiator and the engine. Problem with that is more fabrication, more $ and probably a greater degree in the bends thus increasing pressure loss which I suppose wouldn't be an issue unless you were extracting every last lb out of the compressor it could produce. Run the pipe below or even above the rad.
Two would be to get the fan to push instead of pull. It might look silly and might not even work or be practical but getting the fan(s) to push air though the i.c. and the radiator would be killer as it would greatly decrease iat's at idle, still cool the rad. and get out of the way in the bay. There may be a very good reason why I've never seen this done, not to imply that it hasn't been, I've just never seen it.
3 would be to put an xnay on the i.c. and go with water/meth injection pre and post compressor if possible/necessary. Get a big tank for the mixture, a level gauge and watch the iat's to determine if you can permanently do without the i.c. That would be the route I would explore first, but I'm ****ing nutz.

 

Thanks for the suggestions brother.

Yes, your 1st suggestion makes sense and I did think about this as well. I do plan to get some DEI gold heat wrap for the pipe going from the blower down to the curve pipe to the intercooler to help resist heatsoak from the front of the motor AND the fans. However the TR1245 does a great job keeping my intake Temps pretty low.

Your second suggestion is an idea, but I think a puller fan would be ok in combination with hood vents (which i am reluctant to do) to help the engine heat escape more easily. Plus the SPAL 16 inch that im getting delivered has a cfm rate of over 2000 so it's gonna move Alot of air.

Your 3rd I don't think would be feasible. I'm already running E85 and my IC works very well for what it's worth.

 

I'm sure that i.c. works great, no doubt, and your iat's are really good.
The water and/or meth would be considered a replacement for the i.c., not a supplement to your existing choice of fuel. I guess this horse has been kicked many times in that water pre-compressor thread. If for whatever reason I go back to the idea of installing some sort of a compressor on my 4 door z, I'ma try it intercooler-less.
The old "damn-pipe-between-the-rad-&-engine" issue still hasn't been solved by any aftermarket company? Someone could've made some $.