bealljk

iTrader: (13)

take all of this as 'food for thought' not ******* on any of vq's points, just offering another perspective ... I hope it translates in that manner...

+1 to this...Steve Dinan did a pretty good /engineered video sorta about this ... I'll see if I can find it...

I know this is hypothetical and/but/'yea but still' in my opinion this is one step forward, two steps back ... at any speed above 30mph your fans are getting in the way - passive air is doing more cooling above 30mph and therefore any driving above 30mph the inverted fans are inhibiting your IC/Rad cooling ...


nah nah nah - dont do this ... and IC is quite possibly the best value and least problematic cooling apparatus you can put on your car.

I do like the water/meth injection idea!!!

you and me alike vq ...

onevq35de

Least problematic, well, once it's installed, but at this point in BSDE's install, it's being a little *****. Can't remember where but there's a thread on this site with pre-compressor water/meth being discussed. I talked to the owner of Pro-meth late last year and he did tell me that one can bypass the i.c., but then again there may be some details left out of the convo like street or strip, back to back runs, track etc. Safeguards in place, the tank runs empty and you go into limp mode and without an i.c. one can afford to add the weight of a fat tank. Just think, the compressor straight to the plenum. I like the thought of that a lot. I might be more cautious with turbos than with a s.c.

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

I run pre-compressor water meth and (in my head) I think it makes a difference - I dont have hard numbers to prove it though.

I also have a 5gallon tank and in a given 100mile trip I use ~1/2gallon (if not less)...My tank is visible and I dont know that I've ever run it down past 50% ... but on a car like a STi where it'd be trunk mounted I could see it going empty.

I dont (dont want) to tune with it - seems counter intuitive ... I run the smallest (250ml/min) nozzles on each intake ~12" from my turbo inlet. I want the cooling effect and the cleaning effect as insurance rather than my tune relying on it. Tuning without it means if it ***** out it's NOT an automatic blown engine. It may cost me 50hp but I'm ok with it.

You posted the email from Pro-meth right? IIRC, that was a pretty insightful email.

onevq35de

Yeah, I posted it. If you're not sure what you've gained you should get on a dyno without it hooked up and immediately after, with it. In that thread on the one hand we had cux350z(?) who successfully gained something like 5psi just from the pre-comp. injection and on the other hand, rc who gained nothing or something like that. Been awhile. It should always do what it does and if it doesn't, somethings wrong.
This convo is beyond my knowledge but I'm fairly certain if you tune for it, safeguards can be put in place for potential failure of the unit. I imagine it would be no different than the gas tank at this point.
If you don't tune for it and it's only there for cooling, it might be richening the a/f ratio. There's also the question of the heat range of the plugs and if the o2's or wideband is functioning as it/they should be? Is there enough or too much water and other ?'s I'm not smart enough on the subject to know to ask.
I've read some of your thread B. Gotta get back to it, just been really busy. You got skills! If I were you, I'd find the most competent tuner, hopefully one that really knows injection, preferably pre-inj, and get that thing checked out. You got too much invested in your project to not get all the benies, naaa meee.

BluestreamDE

bealljk is an awesome fabricater from reading some of his threads. He has the means to weld what he needs done to his Z. Would like to be able to work metal like that instead of paying another person or shop to make it for me.

onevq35de

You can. Question is cost of all associated tools vs how much you're going to use them. If you're going "bealljk" on your Z, yeah. If you just want to solve an issue that apparently no aftermarket company has been willing to do (pipe vs rad. fan feud) prolly not.

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

I'm hardly a good fabricator! Getting better with every weld ... it's the 10,000hr rule. But thank you for the kind words!!

If you need anything tig'd and its economical to send in the mail hit me up!

going 'bealljk' = batsh!t crazy!!!!!!

BluestreamDE

Spal 16 inch fan came in yesterday. Gonna install this weekend.

Also picking up a used Vlsd Differential with the stock 3.54 final drive later today. 3.91 is fun but I now prefer longer gears.

wizard

Converting to a single fan?

BluestreamDE

Yes, just like bealljk. This is a means to have more room for piping in between the radiator and the motor from the blower without obstructions, while maintaining cooling performance.

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

Post up some pictures of a dry-run of where you want to put it?

I had the car out yesterday - I put ~50miles on it in rush hour traffic, ambient temp was low 90 and the car was in the 208 to 218 range the entire time...I'm interested to see how it does on your car.

any consideration to hood vents?

BluestreamDE

Well I know it is going on the passenger's side of the radiator. Piping angles too steep on the drivers side. Plus the Spal's fan motor sticks out quite a bit so it's the best choice in terms of clearance.

Lol I'm warming up to the idea on hood vents, not as extreme as yours, just cutouts with mesh underneath. Bought a Dremil kit just for the task. Not sure when I want to commit and cut up my hood.

There was a thread with a pdf file with the stencil layout. Downloaded it a day or two ago.

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

for sure - mine are beyond overkill ... I think if you had something 25% the size you'd be fine.

Start small ... you can always go bigger

by chance can you find a donor hood you can hack up and keep your original hood completely stock?

even if it's the wrong color and you gotta repaint it may be better than hacking up your original??

vegasanthony

iTrader: (1)

Pics when you get there..i installed a CF hood with vents..it really helped my engine temps

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

which CF hood? How big are your vents +/- ??

vegasanthony

iTrader: (1)

This Hood right here did wonders for my OnTrack Temps

wizard

Do you have any numbers of what your temps went down by and what temps they were?

And did you use the oem bonnet release catch or the other style ones?

BluestreamDE

Installed my Spal Fan yesterday, Soldered the wiring and wrapped an generous amount of electrical tape. Had to trim about 1/8 inch off the top of the fan's plastic housing to fit in between the upper and lower tanks on the radiator and have it seated/secured flat on the surface area.


The outside temp today was 77 degrees while I Drove to work this am. It takes about 25 minutes of driving to get to base, so the engine was plenty warm. Cruising temps at about 65mph was from 177-185 degrees F. I parked at work and let it idle and once the fan kicked on, it went from 203 degrees F to 181 in about 90 seconds.


I think I can fit a 12 inch low profile fan in combination with this 16 inch Spal on the drivers side to provide extra cooling, waiting on that to get here to test fit.


Other than that, The used OEM Vlsd I got this past weekend was opened up and inspected and cleaned. Once my Nismo Diff cover gets here, I will finish putting it back together with some Redline 75w90. Gonna keep the Injected Performance Diff brace instead of going with a Solid diff bushing. Cant wait to finally have longer gearing.

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

Don't do it! Just stick with the 16" ... don't cloud-up your radiator ... let that passive air push through the radiator w/o resistance...

If you're cruising and your temps (albeit at 8am) are at 165-177 that's about what temp your thermostat is gonna open up right?

You lost your passive air, the fans kicked on and brought the temp down like you'd expect.

assuming you haven't punched holes in the hood yet??

BluestreamDE

I don't think it will cloud that much (compared to the Mishi fan shroud), really the plastic and fan is pretty thin with decent separation and the only obstruction is the fan and fan motor, while driving, its not like the fan wont move with the incoming wind current. There is plenty of surface area imho especially on the drivers side. I literally have the radiator, and the fan fastened together, no other obstructions. Literally the same way yours is set up.


True. Also since it will be a lot hotter now with the sun out after duty, I think it will be a more realistic test of cooling once I start driving back to the house. Temps shouldn't be too bad or much higher than this am just cruising. What I'm worried about is when the car isn't moving and these aftermarket fans are the only thing cooling the coolant in the radiator.


Lost me here, only running the SPAL 16" on the passenger side away from the piping. The drivers side is naked and completely exposed.


I did not. Looking for an HR hood.