G35 Build 2nd Try
01-16-2019, 02:40 PM
#281
350Z-holic
iTrader: (13)
what welder did you pick up?
01-17-2019, 03:01 AM
#282
A friend got a AHP Tig 201
https://www.ahpwelds.com/product/ahp-alphatig-201xd
So far we've only used the stick function since we don't have any bottles of argon. So the hunt is on for a affordable bottle of Argon that i can buy for them.
https://www.ahpwelds.com/product/ahp-alphatig-201xd
So far we've only used the stick function since we don't have any bottles of argon. So the hunt is on for a affordable bottle of Argon that i can buy for them.
01-17-2019, 06:28 AM
#283
350Z-holic
iTrader: (13)
badass man!
I originally got a 140cu foot bottle to get up and running. Then found a deal on a 330cu foot bottle.
It may be smart and less hassle to simply go down to the gas supply and buy their gas & bottle - even if it means buying a smaller bottle. If you buy a bottle off craigslist / FB marketplace it has to be tested and if it's 'out of test' than you have to re-certify it - which is like $100-$150 … if it doesn't pass than you are stuck with it and it's essentially worth scrap.
I would not lease a bottle no matter what - I did that for a year and it was straight-up stupid and roughly 50% more than just buying a bottle and getting it refilled.
I originally got a 140cu foot bottle to get up and running. Then found a deal on a 330cu foot bottle.
It may be smart and less hassle to simply go down to the gas supply and buy their gas & bottle - even if it means buying a smaller bottle. If you buy a bottle off craigslist / FB marketplace it has to be tested and if it's 'out of test' than you have to re-certify it - which is like $100-$150 … if it doesn't pass than you are stuck with it and it's essentially worth scrap.
I would not lease a bottle no matter what - I did that for a year and it was straight-up stupid and roughly 50% more than just buying a bottle and getting it refilled.
01-17-2019, 03:32 PM
#284
Thanks for the insight!
badass man!
I originally got a 140cu foot bottle to get up and running. Then found a deal on a 330cu foot bottle.
It may be smart and less hassle to simply go down to the gas supply and buy their gas & bottle - even if it means buying a smaller bottle. If you buy a bottle off craigslist / FB marketplace it has to be tested and if it's 'out of test' than you have to re-certify it - which is like $100-$150 … if it doesn't pass than you are stuck with it and it's essentially worth scrap.
I would not lease a bottle no matter what - I did that for a year and it was straight-up stupid and roughly 50% more than just buying a bottle and getting it refilled.
I originally got a 140cu foot bottle to get up and running. Then found a deal on a 330cu foot bottle.
It may be smart and less hassle to simply go down to the gas supply and buy their gas & bottle - even if it means buying a smaller bottle. If you buy a bottle off craigslist / FB marketplace it has to be tested and if it's 'out of test' than you have to re-certify it - which is like $100-$150 … if it doesn't pass than you are stuck with it and it's essentially worth scrap.
I would not lease a bottle no matter what - I did that for a year and it was straight-up stupid and roughly 50% more than just buying a bottle and getting it refilled.
01-26-2019, 05:01 AM
#285
Not much of an update.
Supercharger should be back Wednesday so i can finally start mocking up my intercooler piping. The plan was to personally weld it all together but after a few sessions on the TiG machine it's becoming very very clear that it will be a few months of practice before i will be ready to weld 1/16' aluminum. So it will be a held together with couplers until then.
Supercharger should be back Wednesday so i can finally start mocking up my intercooler piping. The plan was to personally weld it all together but after a few sessions on the TiG machine it's becoming very very clear that it will be a few months of practice before i will be ready to weld 1/16' aluminum. So it will be a held together with couplers until then.
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OldManZ350 (01-26-2019)
02-03-2019, 03:46 AM
#286
Got the blower back Wednesday and finally got it mounted yesterday. Started it just to see how loud it's going to be with the 2.87 and OMG it's noticeably louder than my old Procharger! It will probably quite down a little bit once i get the rest of the intercooler piping ordered and installed.
Need to figure out where the best place to mount the BOV is going to be. Is there any benefits to mounting Pre or Post FMIC?
Need to figure out where the best place to mount the BOV is going to be. Is there any benefits to mounting Pre or Post FMIC?
02-03-2019, 10:08 AM
#287
350Z-holic
iTrader: (13)
Got the blower back Wednesday and finally got it mounted yesterday. Started it just to see how loud it's going to be with the 2.87 and OMG it's noticeably louder than my old Procharger! It will probably quite down a little bit once i get the rest of the intercooler piping ordered and installed.
Need to figure out where the best place to mount the BOV is going to be. Is there any benefits to mounting Pre or Post FMIC?
Need to figure out where the best place to mount the BOV is going to be. Is there any benefits to mounting Pre or Post FMIC?
If I remember right - the prochargers was right after the blower as well.
Last edited by bealljk; 02-03-2019 at 10:14 AM.
02-19-2019, 02:41 PM
#293
Going from behind the blower to the intake.
This is from behind the blower down behind the lower radiator hose. This need to be wrapped so the heat from the lower radiator hose doesn't head up the aluminum pipe.
This is where things go from nice and pretty to ugly AF.... Its a 90* Rubber connector i'm going to have to monitor this for chaffing. This is start of the wrap round the radiator.
This is also ugly AF! Rubber 90* into a aluminum 90* at an angle to hit the other rubber 90*
Once i get the new kit it has Metal 180* U bends so i should be able to clean some things up a little. But this may be as close as i can get until i have the tools and skills to cut and weld Pie cuts to get the exacty the bends i need. Don't be to harsh!
Last edited by Conway_160; 02-19-2019 at 02:42 PM. Reason: Spaces Between Pictures
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OldManZ350 (02-19-2019)
02-20-2019, 04:22 PM
#294
3" U-Bend, if you look close you can see the stupid stupid stock Power Steering Lines. I need to get rid of them and move cooler .
Well i learned tonight that the Tial Q 50 is to big to fit comfortably in between the radiator and my pulleys. So it's going to be on the back side about 6 inches from the blower. Also after BOV V-Band connection gets welded on this hose will get wrapped to help prevent radiant heat soak.
02-21-2019, 03:52 PM
#296
LOL, No my stock set up Sht the bed and my car was getting hot. So i got a 14" curved blade fan from Autozone and if i recall it was rated at 1200 CFMs or so and stock is only 800. No way in hell do i think i could have got 3" piping to fit with stock fan.
i cant find the link for the BTP 14" fan from Autozone its only showing BTP 12" and 16" but this looks exactly like the one i have.
i cant find the link for the BTP 14" fan from Autozone its only showing BTP 12" and 16" but this looks exactly like the one i have.
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Staisman (02-25-2019)
03-08-2019, 02:39 PM
#297
So, waiting on my intercooler piping to get back from the welders so i can do my final mock up.
I have my tuner, Admin Tuning is going to Remote tune the car. Now i need a local dyno get get up and running so i can schedule a date.
Still need to figure out where and how to mount my catch can, but need my intercooler piping to check clearances.
I have my tuner, Admin Tuning is going to Remote tune the car. Now i need a local dyno get get up and running so i can schedule a date.
Still need to figure out where and how to mount my catch can, but need my intercooler piping to check clearances.
03-25-2019, 04:31 PM
#298
Well got the car running today!
I got the ID720s and intercooler piping all squared away.
Started the car and let idle, biggest thing i noticed is my left bank and right bank AFR corrections were way different. Bank 1 "Cant remember if its left or right have to get under car and trace widebands" was adding 10-15% more fuel than bank 2. So i need to pull the kinetix back off and make sure everything is G2G with the seals and injectors.
Also getting a spare throttle body to get rid of the hole i drilled in throttle plate. That was to help the surging with the prochrager, but i've heard it can be tuned out. Would like my idle to drop back down to 700-800, instead of the 1200-1300 it sets at now.
I tried to do some preventive maintenance and reseal the VVT, Timing Tensioner, and Water Pump access points on the front timing cover but Water Pump access is leaking all over the place so that needs fixed.
I will say for sure though that Tial 50Q BOV will get peoples attention.
I got the ID720s and intercooler piping all squared away.
Started the car and let idle, biggest thing i noticed is my left bank and right bank AFR corrections were way different. Bank 1 "Cant remember if its left or right have to get under car and trace widebands" was adding 10-15% more fuel than bank 2. So i need to pull the kinetix back off and make sure everything is G2G with the seals and injectors.
Also getting a spare throttle body to get rid of the hole i drilled in throttle plate. That was to help the surging with the prochrager, but i've heard it can be tuned out. Would like my idle to drop back down to 700-800, instead of the 1200-1300 it sets at now.
I tried to do some preventive maintenance and reseal the VVT, Timing Tensioner, and Water Pump access points on the front timing cover but Water Pump access is leaking all over the place so that needs fixed.
I will say for sure though that Tial 50Q BOV will get peoples attention.
03-31-2019, 12:00 PM
#299
Had a very interesting weekend to say the least.
Started by starting to car to listen for leaks and to make sure the problem i was having last week was still present and it wasn't some sort of anomaly.
I used my Scan tool to check my codes to see if that helped narrow it down and found i had a code for a missfire but it didn't say what cylinder.
So on the driver side i disconnected each injector one by one and listened for a difference. They were all working properly so i knew the problem was on the passenger side (Side that needed 20% more fuel to achieve 14.7 afr's at idle)
You can get to the injectors while running with a kinetix so i pulled each coil pack connector, i determined that #5 was not working correctly. Now its time to figure out if its a fuel or spark problem.
Thankfully i have a few spare coils and a ton of good plugs. Well set everything up and i god a good spark from the tip of the plug to the intake and a good one from the coil to my finger...SHT SUCKS!!
Well now i know i have good spark so it has to be the new 720cc ID injectors. So i have to do a little research on how to test an injector and i found that most people just use a 9v battery and if it clicks it's G2G. Unfortunately i don't have any 9v's but i do have a battery charger that has a 6V 2A setting, were in business!!
Tear everything apart get access to the injector in question and it works...well WTF!! So i decide to pull all the injectors and and put a little Vasoline on them maybe i broke an O-ring and that was the cause, even though i don't see any fuel below the lower runners.
I also decide to move some things around to see if the problem follows. So i swapped #2 and #5's plugs and Coils and #4 and #5 Fuel Injectors.
Upon removing #5's injector i noticed there is no O-ring on the bottom of the injector, awesome wtf happened to it. I recall one injector not having a top O-ring but nothing about a missing bottom O-ring.
So i look where the injector sets its not in there, looked down the runner to the valves its not there either but the intake valves are open FML. Look down the spark plug hole don't see anything, say F it and grab my craptastic 144p $10 borescope (USB Camera) looked around the top of the piston and don't see anything. Well that's good i suppose.
Finish putting everything back together thats when things took a turn for the worst.
Started the car, it struggled like my battery was dying no biggy i'll put it back on charge. Well let it idle and get up to normal operating temps while messing with the idle tune. Tap the throttle to see how the return to idle is. Noticed a Tick Tick Tick sound hmm that sounds like i have a pulley going bad i'll mess with that later.
Well the car ended up dying, but when i went to start it it sounded like my engine was seizing. Starter would spin it then stop OMFG the car ate the O-ring and now i destroyed another engine! I was about 30 mins from making a Part of thread, but told my self to pull all the plugs to look at all the pistons and see what happens with no compression.
All the pistons looked good but the starter was still unable to spin the engine. Grab my breaker bar and a 19" socket to see if i can spin it by hand. Well i can spin it about ~270* then then last ~90* it gets rough now i'm supper stressing, The wife notices and asked me about it i kind of yelled at her :-( telling her i have no F-ing idea what happned or what i'm going to do.
I'm completely stumped why its hard to turn over, i would think it should be a constant pressure to spin the rotating assembly but i have no idea.
Well now i'm praying the battery just doesn't have enough amps to turn over the engine. Battery starts off at 12V then jumps down the 9V while cranking awesome its a bad battery, ill take it back to wally world and exchange it. Warranty expired Feb 6th that blows i'll buy another one.
Get the new one home and what do you know, NO F'ING CHANGE!!!!! Thankfully my father in-law is here and suggested the starter, well i have no other ideas so i suppose i'll pull it and get it checked.
For those of you who don't have OBX longtubes be very very thankfull! In order for me to get my starter out i had to pull the engine mount bolts and lift the engine about 3" you can't pull the starter out the back like normal it has to come out the front. You also have to pull the oil filter, things we do for HP....
Well got it out and took it to Auto Zone well after waiting in line for ~45 mins or so i finally got the starter tested, I saw it spin but guy said it was super slower to engage so we tested it again. This time the wheel shot straight out then it spun, he called it bad but i had my own thoughts. Opened up the maching and my starter was smoking...deff bad!
Bought a new starter went home and ate my cold dinner "Thanks Obama" ....j/k
Installed the new started and what do you know it spins the motor like a champ no hesitation no nothing. Put it all back together and what do you know fired right up.
So i dodged a huge bullet, or i hope so at least!
Now i just need to finish making my base map and putting the car back together so i can schedule my tune.
Well now were all caught up!
Started by starting to car to listen for leaks and to make sure the problem i was having last week was still present and it wasn't some sort of anomaly.
I used my Scan tool to check my codes to see if that helped narrow it down and found i had a code for a missfire but it didn't say what cylinder.
So on the driver side i disconnected each injector one by one and listened for a difference. They were all working properly so i knew the problem was on the passenger side (Side that needed 20% more fuel to achieve 14.7 afr's at idle)
You can get to the injectors while running with a kinetix so i pulled each coil pack connector, i determined that #5 was not working correctly. Now its time to figure out if its a fuel or spark problem.
Thankfully i have a few spare coils and a ton of good plugs. Well set everything up and i god a good spark from the tip of the plug to the intake and a good one from the coil to my finger...SHT SUCKS!!
Well now i know i have good spark so it has to be the new 720cc ID injectors. So i have to do a little research on how to test an injector and i found that most people just use a 9v battery and if it clicks it's G2G. Unfortunately i don't have any 9v's but i do have a battery charger that has a 6V 2A setting, were in business!!
Tear everything apart get access to the injector in question and it works...well WTF!! So i decide to pull all the injectors and and put a little Vasoline on them maybe i broke an O-ring and that was the cause, even though i don't see any fuel below the lower runners.
I also decide to move some things around to see if the problem follows. So i swapped #2 and #5's plugs and Coils and #4 and #5 Fuel Injectors.
Upon removing #5's injector i noticed there is no O-ring on the bottom of the injector, awesome wtf happened to it. I recall one injector not having a top O-ring but nothing about a missing bottom O-ring.
So i look where the injector sets its not in there, looked down the runner to the valves its not there either but the intake valves are open FML. Look down the spark plug hole don't see anything, say F it and grab my craptastic 144p $10 borescope (USB Camera) looked around the top of the piston and don't see anything. Well that's good i suppose.
Finish putting everything back together thats when things took a turn for the worst.
Started the car, it struggled like my battery was dying no biggy i'll put it back on charge. Well let it idle and get up to normal operating temps while messing with the idle tune. Tap the throttle to see how the return to idle is. Noticed a Tick Tick Tick sound hmm that sounds like i have a pulley going bad i'll mess with that later.
Well the car ended up dying, but when i went to start it it sounded like my engine was seizing. Starter would spin it then stop OMFG the car ate the O-ring and now i destroyed another engine! I was about 30 mins from making a Part of thread, but told my self to pull all the plugs to look at all the pistons and see what happens with no compression.
All the pistons looked good but the starter was still unable to spin the engine. Grab my breaker bar and a 19" socket to see if i can spin it by hand. Well i can spin it about ~270* then then last ~90* it gets rough now i'm supper stressing, The wife notices and asked me about it i kind of yelled at her :-( telling her i have no F-ing idea what happned or what i'm going to do.
I'm completely stumped why its hard to turn over, i would think it should be a constant pressure to spin the rotating assembly but i have no idea.
Well now i'm praying the battery just doesn't have enough amps to turn over the engine. Battery starts off at 12V then jumps down the 9V while cranking awesome its a bad battery, ill take it back to wally world and exchange it. Warranty expired Feb 6th that blows i'll buy another one.
Get the new one home and what do you know, NO F'ING CHANGE!!!!! Thankfully my father in-law is here and suggested the starter, well i have no other ideas so i suppose i'll pull it and get it checked.
For those of you who don't have OBX longtubes be very very thankfull! In order for me to get my starter out i had to pull the engine mount bolts and lift the engine about 3" you can't pull the starter out the back like normal it has to come out the front. You also have to pull the oil filter, things we do for HP....
Well got it out and took it to Auto Zone well after waiting in line for ~45 mins or so i finally got the starter tested, I saw it spin but guy said it was super slower to engage so we tested it again. This time the wheel shot straight out then it spun, he called it bad but i had my own thoughts. Opened up the maching and my starter was smoking...deff bad!
Bought a new starter went home and ate my cold dinner "Thanks Obama" ....j/k
Installed the new started and what do you know it spins the motor like a champ no hesitation no nothing. Put it all back together and what do you know fired right up.
So i dodged a huge bullet, or i hope so at least!
Now i just need to finish making my base map and putting the car back together so i can schedule my tune.
Well now were all caught up!
04-21-2019, 11:55 AM
#300
Well took the car out today to do a little data logging to see if anything looks off before i try to schedule my tune.
Well i learned a few things:
1: Something may be misaligned. I ate part of my belt, when i popped my hood the belt was hanging off the front of the alternator so need to order a few belts and get some sort of square to check alignments.
2: I may have a bad alternator, car died on me and struggled to start (Brand new battery) I think it's more than likely dude to the power steering leak i have that has coated the alternator in lovely juices.
3: Need to fix my dam power steering leak...
4: Don't take passengers when trying to data log, the right foot may get a little heavy. Pinned it in 3rd for about 3 seconds hit 80 and let out. That did give me some very good data though.
5: Injector duty cycle is hit 70% so i either need a bigger fuel pump my 255 may not be enough, or i could set my fuel pressure regulator to scale with boost instead of the static 53psi i currently have it at.
6: 5880rpm in 3rd = 15psi so if i rev to 7200 in 5th i think that should be close to 18-19psi if i don't have any belt slip.
More to come, and i expect a lot of flack of stretching its legs with no "tune"
Well i learned a few things:
1: Something may be misaligned. I ate part of my belt, when i popped my hood the belt was hanging off the front of the alternator so need to order a few belts and get some sort of square to check alignments.
2: I may have a bad alternator, car died on me and struggled to start (Brand new battery) I think it's more than likely dude to the power steering leak i have that has coated the alternator in lovely juices.
3: Need to fix my dam power steering leak...
4: Don't take passengers when trying to data log, the right foot may get a little heavy. Pinned it in 3rd for about 3 seconds hit 80 and let out. That did give me some very good data though.
5: Injector duty cycle is hit 70% so i either need a bigger fuel pump my 255 may not be enough, or i could set my fuel pressure regulator to scale with boost instead of the static 53psi i currently have it at.
6: 5880rpm in 3rd = 15psi so if i rev to 7200 in 5th i think that should be close to 18-19psi if i don't have any belt slip.
More to come, and i expect a lot of flack of stretching its legs with no "tune"