Ok befor anyone says anything I have already serched. This is a 2003 with 70,000 with a k@n drop in. I have had it for 5 months with no problems. Yeterday I was driving and I stoped and when I went to take off I notice a power loss. I repeated this a couple of times with the same problem. And I also noticed that when I let off the gas the rpm's drop all the way to like 600 and then back to 1500 then when I come to a stop it sits right at 1000. I am sure its not me getting use to it for the power loss part. So I went home and looked over the entire car. And I noticed that their was a little oil by the left valve cover. So I pulled the plugs and their was oil around the plugs! So Im gussing that I need a new valve cover. Or do I need to replace both? And could this be my power loss problem. I then checked the tb and it was dirty so I took the plneum off and cleand it and the tb. I was wondering what and if the plenum bolts needed to be a certain torqe. But I have no idea about the rpm problem.

 

Since you have a K&N, I'd try cleaning the MAF. the oil from the filter can mess with the sensor wires...

 

could that be part of the idle problem or the power loss?

 

And what to use to clean it. Would the spray at auto zone be fine.

 

Yea it could be the cause of both. CRC makes a spray cleaner that will work fine. Hope that works!

 

Great also would reseting the ecu be somhing to put on the to do list?

 

might be worthwhile if it's throwing a CEL right now... otherwise probably not necessary

 

Well I will clean the mfs and will let ya know how it works out.

 

Anyone els have any idea?

 

Ok so last night I was messing with the z making sure that their was no vacum leaks ect.... And the check engin light came on. So I diconected the negitive and let it sit over night. this morning I conected the battery and no check engin light. But instead of reving at like 1000 to 1600 now its droping to 600 for a sec and then it will go up to a 1000 and then back down to 600 when I am at a complete stop. I did disconect the mfs and the throttle body and I know that when you do that you have to relearn it. But do you still have to relearn it after reseting the ecu?

 

O and I still havent got to clean the mfs. So that could still be my problem.

 

Ok the mfs has been cleand but its still doing the same thing. And their is no check engine light yet since I have reset it. What could this be?

 

yes the plenum bolts do need to be to spec. You shouldn't have removed your plenum nor your throttle body before researching the outcome of each fully.

First of all, the bouncing of the RPMs at idle is directly related to an air leak. You probably took of your plenum and retightened it in no specific order or torque spec causing an uneven seal around your plenum's gasket causing an air leak. I suggest using an inch lb torque wrench and reinstalling the plenum to spec. You can find torque's specs by searching google and/or this website.

Once you remove your throttle body entirely /remove the plug from the back of it your TB will usually lose calibration. Since our TBs are drive by wire they are very touchy. You will have to run through the throttle body research procedure to make sure everything intake wise is on target. I feel if you redo the following your problems will go away. Good luck with things.