How-To Repair Stuck / Broken Window Motor ...
Thanks for a brilliant Post!!
I replaced the worn brushes on the passenger side motor myself yesterday, It's not really that tricky once you tape up the window very well as shown and do not spin the motor spindle once you have taken it apart.. I found the best way to get the solder off the terminals was to heat it up well with the soldering iron then tap the motor upside down so the molten solder falls off..
I got the brushes here: http://www.rc-wheels.co.uk/motor-spa...683788824.html
There was a tiny bit left of the old brushes so i could measure the width of them and the size of them are: 4.26mm x 4.54mm.
The new Brushes I got were slightly narrower on one side and bigger on the other but I filed down the wide side and they fitted.
They were a bit long @ around 12mm so I filed them in place before putting in the spindle to get them right.
I found that the Carbon was really packed tight between the Commutators so I got a very thin blade flat screwdriver and cleaned out the gaps then washed the whole lot with solvent and used fine sandpaper to smooth out the scratches..
The window did not need to be reset as the tape had held it in position but it may be different for the drivers side and it goes up and down really quick now!
I replaced the worn brushes on the passenger side motor myself yesterday, It's not really that tricky once you tape up the window very well as shown and do not spin the motor spindle once you have taken it apart.. I found the best way to get the solder off the terminals was to heat it up well with the soldering iron then tap the motor upside down so the molten solder falls off..
I got the brushes here: http://www.rc-wheels.co.uk/motor-spa...683788824.html
There was a tiny bit left of the old brushes so i could measure the width of them and the size of them are: 4.26mm x 4.54mm.
The new Brushes I got were slightly narrower on one side and bigger on the other but I filed down the wide side and they fitted.
They were a bit long @ around 12mm so I filed them in place before putting in the spindle to get them right.
I found that the Carbon was really packed tight between the Commutators so I got a very thin blade flat screwdriver and cleaned out the gaps then washed the whole lot with solvent and used fine sandpaper to smooth out the scratches..
The window did not need to be reset as the tape had held it in position but it may be different for the drivers side and it goes up and down really quick now!
Just wanted to say thank you to the OP and to all the contributed to this thread. I finally ordered my new OEM motor from Fontana Nissan along with the rear hatch actuator that finally went out last week. The actuator replacement is really easy and took me no more than ten minutes from start to finish. The window motor was surprisingly simple and took me about an hour. I didn't even have to do the window motor reset. It just worked from the get go. Thanks again, guys!
If you want a permanent fix, I have a brand new OEM passenger window motor for 350z/G35, still in it's original bag, un-opened, 200$, I'd prefer shipping to someone in Canada.

SOLD.
SOLD.
Last edited by Speedo007; Jul 25, 2013 at 05:46 PM.
I am adding my thanks for the fantastic job you did in your detailed description of getting at the window motors. Both of mine started acting up around the same time, and I have just replaced both. It was no problem thanks to you!
Help please! Today I replaced the passenger window motor in my 2003 Z. When I follow the reset procedure outlined in Vo7848's instructions, my window won't auto-rise and it won't rise the extra small amount once the door is shut. Auto-down works fine though. Also if I repeatedly open and shut the door it will keep lowering the small amount for opening the door, moving further down that same distance every time. How do I reset it properly? I can't understand it. 
Also Smoove if you right-click and open each picture in a new tab they show up fine. Also they work great on my phone for some reason.

Also Smoove if you right-click and open each picture in a new tab they show up fine. Also they work great on my phone for some reason.
By the way buried in all of these posts was a note that I had taken what VO7848 wrote up and added a lot more pictures and explanation of the window motor repair process. (credits to the great VO7848...) It is now merged in a PDF file thats around 3 to 4 MB. Roughly 71 pages. Ok, I got carried away! I'm not sure how to put this file anywhere where others can more readily access it? PM me if you would like a copy and I can email it.
hey guys. In his pic that shows the bolts that we need to remove in order. Where can i get the connect thats on that panel. I lost mine
....need an answer asap its about to rain and no garage.
....need an answer asap its about to rain and no garage.
Thank you for this write-up! I was set on buying the oem motor but after reading the reviews for the Auto-Zone part my mind was changed.
for $ saved and the opportunity to do some wrenching of my own.
for $ saved and the opportunity to do some wrenching of my own.
Would my nissan warranty cover this? My passanger side goes down slow and comes up normal speed. I just got the car at my work used 2004 with 31k and got a 3yr/36000 bumper to bumper added on. Thanks
Thanks a lot for your suggestions .They are really helpful in my work.I am owner of Jay's Auto Service.We offer a wide range of auto repair services including Tires change,breaks,shocks,alignment,suspension,ac service etc.and these type of forums help me a lot.
I have a 2004.5 Track model. My window motor would still put the window up or down at regular speed, but upon reaching the top, the window would go down about 4-5 inches and stop. It would also do this upon opening and closing the passenger door. I tried the up and down reset procedure(?) and the motor reset procedure to no avail. I finally held the button to put the window up for about 10 seconds and it stayed up. But, if I opened the door, the window wouldn't go down the 1/4" or so like normal. I purchased a Nissan OEM motor from Z1 Motorsport and waited for it to be sent to me. (Not a bad price.) Anyway, thanks to v07848 for the write up at the beginning of this string. The only problem I had was I decided not to tape the window in place in the up position. I put it all the way down so it couldn't drop far. It was a bit of a pitb, but it wasn't too bad with the glass next to the motor. The biggest problem I had was the window got off of the track in the front and I didn't realize it. I put it all back together with the new motor, and the window wouldn't move more than 1/2" up or down. After messing with it for a while, I decided to put the window all the way up. I used a ratchet with a 1/2" drive to crank the regulator and put the window up all the way. In doing this I discovered the window was off the track and I put it back in the track and cranked it up all the way. THERE IS NO NEED TO TAPE THE WINDOW TO THE DOOR AS IT WILL STAY UP. After I put the motor back in, it worked fine and I did the reset procedure and all is good now. By the way, as far as what order to remove the bolts/screws that hold the inner panel to the door and hold the window regulator and motor bracket, it doesn't matter what order you remove the bolts/screws. There are two tabs at the top of the panel that will support the panel with all the bolts removed.
Thanks again for the excellent write up vo7848!
Thanks again for the excellent write up vo7848!
Last edited by floydfan; Jan 8, 2014 at 01:30 PM.
Thanks for this detailed post of how to remove and reinstall the window motor. My drivers side window on my '03 Z is acting funny. Every time I try to roll my window up, it goes back down half way so I am hoping if I reset it, it would fix the problem. Thanks again
It sounds like your window problem is the same as what I had with my passenger side window motor. I tried to reset the window motor, and it didn't work at all...no change. I hope a reset works for you, but I'll bet that your solution will be to replace the window motor. Good luck.



