****Posted same question on Driver.

Bumping this cause i need some quick help. I just opened up the motor cleaned it out replaced the brushes etc. but now that im trying to put the copper coil part back into the black plastic housing with the rotating motor part, it doesnt go in all the way? Like something is stuck or is in the way. Anyone deal with this before?

It still makes contact with the motor cause when i spin the copper coil part the spindle turns as well it just doesnt sit all the way in as it supposed to. its about 3/4 to an inch from closing all the way when i put the copper magnet cover on

 

Push in while spinning it a little

 

On the subswitch underneath the handle. Does anyone know how the wires go back into place or know where to find it?

 

Bought mine from Z1 Motorsports 3 years ago. New Nissan OEM one it is still going strong. It's worth the extra $100-150 not to replace it every 6-12 months.

 

This is good to know . My 3rd Cardone from Advance just went out after 2 months . I only drive my ZR 5 months out of the year . I've went through 3 of these peices of **** in a total of 7 months . I also changed the regulator(Oem Nissan) with the one that just went out , so that isnt the problem . I'm going to try an Oem Nissan motor this time and see what happens .

 

I emailed CARDONE back in Jan.2012. They are aware of the problems they had been causing and have been rebuilding these differently now as of 10/21/11. If you have bought one in the last year I don't know how you tell when it was rebuilt and depending where you shop how old the stock is but if all things are true newer rebuilds should not fail like the older ones.
The one I got in Jan., the cover popped off and the window started acting crazy. By the time I got it back together it had spun too many times with the gears all disengaged and when I put it back together it no longer worked correctly in regards to auto features and window up down feature when you open the door. I got a new one under warranty and sent them an email about covers falling off. I put my new one in with something holding up against the cover so hopefully it will never fall off. If it was rebuilt after 10/2011 I hope to have this one for a long time this time!

 

does this diy apply to the driver side on a 2008 even with the interior change from an 03? The arm rest seems to be a bit tighter and not sure if I can stick a butter knife in there. I need to replace the motor as well but wondering if there were any big changes or differences from an 03 window replacement, thanks

 

This is total BS that a 2008 vehicles window motor went out . My 2001 F150Supercrew(Bought new in 2000) has 139,000 miles . It still has all 4 original window motors and switches and is by far the best vehicle i've ever owned . I'm begining to wonder about Japanese quality since owning my Z .

 

bump...

So I got a refurb'd lift motor today. This is motor #3 (OEM +2). Thankfully, I ordered from O'Reilly and didn't have to pay anything tonight. The previous motor was bought 3/26/2010 and recently stopped working.

Sadly, I think I have an issue with this new motor already. The problem is that the motor connector with 6 pins inside isn't lining up with the male connector (?) that's part of the door wiring harness. After closer inspection, I think Cardone installed the lower 2 pins incorrectly. They're too low from the 4 top pins.

I seem to recall a thread or post about this issue, but I could be wrong. I'd rather know if I can fix that myself instead of taking the entire thing back to O'Reilly and getting another one. This is a PITA.

Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.

 

Didn't want to clean and re-assemble the OEM motor so I just replaced my 04.5 passenger side motor with a refurb from Advanced Auto Parts today. Vo's tutorial was a great help and the swap took just over an hour doing everything carefully. The only procedure I changed (as others have suggested) was to use a couple strips of blue painters tape at the indicated spots on the window instead of duct tape. Much easier to remove this tape and no adhesive to clean up if you do the swap in the shade. Window only dropped 1/8" at most when removing the window track nuts and bolts. Everything went well, didn't even have to do the reset procedure.

This is the first replacement motor in my one owner Z since 2004, guess I was lucky. I live in SoCal and use my windows a lot. Now, when I open both windows together, the driver's side is slower and sounds weaker LOL. I bought this refurbished motor in April2012 so I hope I got a "correctly built" part. I'll report back when/if this motor dies so we can document the build quality of this revised re-build procedure CARDONE is performing.


Thanks again Vo for all the hard work you did assembling this tutorial, much appreciated Also, thanks to the other posters that contributed to this thread too. Any time I can deny the Stealership money, especially the $500 they wanted to replace the motor, it brings a big azz smile to my face

 

Yaaaaaaay this is going to be fun

 

It's not as bad as you think. I've probably done this 10 times on my Z.

 

About a year ago if my window was rolled all the way down, it wouldnt roll up unless I hit the door panel once... Now if I can't even roll it down or it will go all the way down and get stuck.... The only for me to bring It up is by holding the button midway, and hitting the door panel really hard multiple times (really ghetto, I know) but as i hold the button I hear a noise as if it's pushing but just doesn't go up.... Would this be the motor? Regulator? Just want to make sure before I spend the money

 

Repair the motor

 

I "repaired" one a few months ago. It died again a couple times this weekend so I replaced it today.

 

My passenger side regulator went defunkt on speaker isntall, have to reset motor, but have never had any other problems with these...but may pick up 2 new oem ones at Salvage soon enough in case. Do G35 sedans use the same motor I assume? If so, I am in business.

 

ill take any old window motors and door lock actuators

 

got to give VO a thanks for the write up it came in very useful today in taking the door apart and swapping motors

 

subd to save in my subscriptions.. sorry for the bump.

 

My driver side motor is starting to go out on my '06... It's making noise.. I also get grease on my window from it..

The reason I believe the motors go out so quick is that they go down and up every single time you open the door.. It wears it out

Not sure if this has been covered on here.. Just read the DIY not all the other posts but... How much is the motor from the stealership and how much would they charge to put it in.. I want the oem motor but I have a feeling I'm gonna be putting it in myself