vdc and slip and service engine???!
so I was driving then the cart suddenly yust went from 40 to 20 and vdc and slip lights when on with service engine all at the same time?? Now it doesn't start as fast as it used to take a couple of seconds longer ...03 350 mAnual any ideas??
sounds like a cam sensor issue. had the same thing last month. its about a $60-80 fix, if u do ur own labor. find out the exact code to see which side. replacing is not too hard, just dont do it on a warm engine..
A failed crankshaft position sensor and/or camshaft position sensor causes the problem you describe. Owners reporting this have an average mileage 84,907 mi (64,000 mi - 100,000 mi). Nissan did recall the sensors, but only on a range of VIN’s and not every 2003 car.
The engine can stall, and this is the reason for the voluntary recall on specific VIN’s.
I had this problem, pulled the code, and replaced one sensor. Two weeks later I replaced the second sensor. I should have done both right-away.
--Spike
The engine can stall, and this is the reason for the voluntary recall on specific VIN’s.
I had this problem, pulled the code, and replaced one sensor. Two weeks later I replaced the second sensor. I should have done both right-away.
--Spike
Last edited by Spike100; May 13, 2013 at 04:46 PM.
I took the driver side out and it had oil on it. Cleaned it up, dried it and put it back in there, cranked the care, still see the SLIP VDC and SES lights on.
Took the sensor out again and see it still has oil on it.
Is the oil presence normal or is that a part of the problem?
I am planning to replace the sensor with a new one but just wanted to make sure something else is not broken.
Thanks,
Took the sensor out again and see it still has oil on it.
Is the oil presence normal or is that a part of the problem?
I am planning to replace the sensor with a new one but just wanted to make sure something else is not broken.
Thanks,
oil is normal. its right below your cam so obviously there is going to be oil in the head. replace it. you will have to clear the codes either with the scanner, or the ecu reset, they will not go away just by replacing the part.
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Replace the sensor. After turning the Key ON (Not starting) still see the SLIP and VDC lighs + Service Engine Soon light.
Tried to do the reset, the part that the SES is supposed to blink is not happening.
Did this three times but SES light not blinking.
Any Suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Tried to do the reset, the part that the SES is supposed to blink is not happening.
Did this three times but SES light not blinking.
Any Suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Here is the Reset procedure that I followed:
Ok, so now you replaced your sensor(s) but your service engine soon light ( SES ) is still on. How do I get my light to turn off???
Basic ECU Reset
Procedure:
1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” (NOT start) and wait 3 seconds.
2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)
5. Wait about 10 seconds.
6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).
8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone. If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Remember, timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU.
Note: After you perform step 3, the CEL will start flashing. The series of flashes will actually display codes if any are present.
Now take the car out for a drive. If the light comes back on in 5 or 10 miles, then your sensor replacement did not fix your problem. This could be due to a variety of things but is not limited to the following:
1.) Your new sensor is bad (many people suggest only using Nissan/Infiniti OEM parts.)
2.) Your connector may be loose.
3.) You replaced the wrong sensor (this only applies if you only changed 1 of the 2 sensors)
4.) Your cam sensor was not the problem in the first place (Hence, you changed out a good sensor without properly troubleshooting it and wasted your time and money.)
If you changed your sensor out and are still experiencing the exact same issues, re-check the engine code you are getting and troubleshoot according to the FSM. Be mindful that the CKP sensor is often linked to cam sensor error codes, and the CKP could also be contributing to your issues. Do all the testing possible, and then replace parts. Just because you are getting a cam sensor engine code, does not necessarily always mean the cam sensor is bad.
Ok, so now you replaced your sensor(s) but your service engine soon light ( SES ) is still on. How do I get my light to turn off???
Basic ECU Reset
Procedure:
1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” (NOT start) and wait 3 seconds.
2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)
5. Wait about 10 seconds.
6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).
8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone. If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Remember, timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU.
Note: After you perform step 3, the CEL will start flashing. The series of flashes will actually display codes if any are present.
Now take the car out for a drive. If the light comes back on in 5 or 10 miles, then your sensor replacement did not fix your problem. This could be due to a variety of things but is not limited to the following:
1.) Your new sensor is bad (many people suggest only using Nissan/Infiniti OEM parts.)
2.) Your connector may be loose.
3.) You replaced the wrong sensor (this only applies if you only changed 1 of the 2 sensors)
4.) Your cam sensor was not the problem in the first place (Hence, you changed out a good sensor without properly troubleshooting it and wasted your time and money.)
If you changed your sensor out and are still experiencing the exact same issues, re-check the engine code you are getting and troubleshoot according to the FSM. Be mindful that the CKP sensor is often linked to cam sensor error codes, and the CKP could also be contributing to your issues. Do all the testing possible, and then replace parts. Just because you are getting a cam sensor engine code, does not necessarily always mean the cam sensor is bad.
I experienced the exact same problem today on my '05 Z.
Went to crank the Z but it took 3-4 seconds to start. CEL, TCS OFF and Slip lights are now on. The Z seems to run fine as there are no othe adverse symptoms.
Pulled the codes and got a C1130 Engine Signal 1 with a ABS $28 and a P0340.
Cam sensors are cheap and easy...I am more concerned with the C1130 and I have never seen it with the ABS $28 before. I am guessing the the real issue is the P0340 and this caused the CEL. The ABS is part of the TCS / Slip system ...would the cam sensor trigger an ABS code and Disable the TCS system? Huuuuumm?
Maybe the $ in the code means get ready to spend the big bucks!
Went to crank the Z but it took 3-4 seconds to start. CEL, TCS OFF and Slip lights are now on. The Z seems to run fine as there are no othe adverse symptoms.
Pulled the codes and got a C1130 Engine Signal 1 with a ABS $28 and a P0340.
Cam sensors are cheap and easy...I am more concerned with the C1130 and I have never seen it with the ABS $28 before. I am guessing the the real issue is the P0340 and this caused the CEL. The ABS is part of the TCS / Slip system ...would the cam sensor trigger an ABS code and Disable the TCS system? Huuuuumm?
Maybe the $ in the code means get ready to spend the big bucks!
Last edited by PaPaClutch; Sep 18, 2013 at 05:39 PM. Reason: Forgot something!
I removed the Bank 1 CPS this weekend and checked it with a meter for continuity. The power path 1-3 checked good however the signal path showed open. Purchased a new sensor and checked it before I left the parts store (many are dead on arrival) and all was good so I popped it in and good by SLIP and TCS OFF. Reset and checked codes...all gone!
I replaced the camshaft sensor for P0340 issue and reset. The lights went off and came right back up after driving almost 20 miles. Took it back to Autozone, hooked it up and got the same code P0340.
Any ideas?
Any ideas?
UPDATE....
I kind of keep track of my MPG. The norm for me I get a combination road/highway about 17 MPG. Since this issue started I noticed the MPG has gone extremely lower to almost 10 MPG. Anyone has any ideas?
Thanks,
I kind of keep track of my MPG. The norm for me I get a combination road/highway about 17 MPG. Since this issue started I noticed the MPG has gone extremely lower to almost 10 MPG. Anyone has any ideas?
Thanks,
I removed the Bank 1 CPS this weekend and checked it with a meter for continuity. The power path 1-3 checked good however the signal path showed open. Purchased a new sensor and checked it before I left the parts store (many are dead on arrival) and all was good so I popped it in and good by SLIP and TCS OFF. Reset and checked codes...all gone!
My questions are 1) Have you had anymore issues with this since your post and 2) As i'm not an expert with a multimeter and you say a lot of the sensors can be DOA do you have a picture of one that you could show and how you tested it?
Many thanks
BB
PaPaClutch, I think my '04 is having the exact same issue, vehicle stuttered while driving, the lights came on as described and then my starter turned a few more times than was normal before firing up each time but with no adverse driving performance issues that I can tell.
My questions are 1) Have you had anymore issues with this since your post and 2) As i'm not an expert with a multimeter and you say a lot of the sensors can be DOA do you have a picture of one that you could show and how you tested it?
Many thanks
BB
My questions are 1) Have you had anymore issues with this since your post and 2) As i'm not an expert with a multimeter and you say a lot of the sensors can be DOA do you have a picture of one that you could show and how you tested it?
Many thanks
BB
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