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Clutch will not disengage. Plz help

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Old Mar 8, 2020 | 02:50 PM
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Michael DiBacco
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Default Clutch will not disengage. Plz help

2003 170k miles

It started by being a little difficult to get into gear. Then really hard untill it just wouldn't go into gear anymore. I was able to pump the clutch and ease into first and float it on home. I changed the master and slave cylinder. Still not disengaging and the pedal would stick. Tried adjusting the pedal a few ways and still not releasing the clutch but I could get the pedal to come back, however it wouldnt hit the switch to start the car. I am not 100% its bled correctly but sure seems like it but it doesn't feel right on the pedal. You can see the slave moving the fork maybe 2-2.5 inches but ill if its enough to release the clutch or not. It was never slipping and heard no bad noises when driving at all. Never ripped on hard it just makes no sense to me. Pumping the clutch pedal fast let's me slowly starts to release it enough for me to move into first after awhile and allot of pressure on the shifter so it makes me think master or slave still but they are new and i think bled right but maybe not....

Last edited by Michael DiBacco; Mar 8, 2020 at 02:52 PM.
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Old Mar 8, 2020 | 03:02 PM
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Welcome- but from your description, it sounds like you've still got a clutch that needs bleeding. It's clear you've tried several times, but are just not sure you bled it correctly. I'd suggest you bring in a pro to take a look. Replacing a brake master usually means a bench bleed before installation will help. Also, at 170K, when did you last change the clutch? It would be a shame to get it all properly bled and find the pressure plate or other clutch component is shot.
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Old Mar 8, 2020 | 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by dkmura
Welcome- but from your description, it sounds like you've still got a clutch that needs bleeding. It's clear you've tried several times, but are just not sure you bled it correctly. I'd suggest you bring in a pro to take a look. Replacing a brake master usually means a bench bleed before installation will help. Also, at 170K, when did you last change the clutch? It would be a shame to get it all properly bled and find the pressure plate or other clutch component is shot.
i just bought the car last week lol so im not sure when it was done. At least 45-50k ago i would say my buddy owned it before me. I am having it looked at by a pro this coming week but i may try to bleed it again, ive just never had a problem before doing this.
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Old Mar 8, 2020 | 07:38 PM
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If you don't have full service records for your Z, at least ask your buddy about the clutch. The clutch master is NOT a regular component to fail, so you may have other problems in there. Be sure to come back on here and post up what the problem was when you get it figured out.
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Old Mar 8, 2020 | 09:42 PM
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You may try taking off the slave cylinder and compressing it, then bleed while compressed. Reinstall then bleed one last time. I had a hard time bleeding mine quite some time ago before doing this method. dkmura's advice about bench bleeding the master is sound as well. Hopefully you did this.
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Old Mar 9, 2020 | 03:05 AM
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Originally Posted by rustyschopshop
You may try taking off the slave cylinder and compressing it, then bleed while compressed. Reinstall then bleed one last time. I had a hard time bleeding mine quite some time ago before doing this method. dkmura's advice about bench bleeding the master is sound as well. Hopefully you did this.
Unfortunately I was ignorant to the fact and did not bench bleed the master. So should I uninstall the master and bench bleed it? As well as remove the slave and compress it? The slave needing compressed makes allot of sense. Also my buddy hasn't had any clutch issue really besides being a little hard to get into first sometimes.
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Old Mar 9, 2020 | 06:35 AM
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You still haven't mentioned when the clutch in your car was replaced? If you're saying your buddy "hasn't had any clutch issue" and never replaced it- you're asking for trouble by not doing it at 170K.

And yes, I'd bench bleed the master (when everything else is installed).
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Old Mar 10, 2020 | 03:42 AM
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Originally Posted by dkmura
You still haven't mentioned when the clutch in your car was replaced? If you're saying your buddy "hasn't had any clutch issue" and never replaced it- you're asking for trouble by not doing it at 170K.

And yes, I'd bench bleed the master (when everything else is installed).
I thought I said he had not done the clutch yet but at 170k im sure its been done before. Take the cover off for the fork on the bellhousing and looking inside looks perfect. For the very first time ever I just don't have the time to work on my car so I sent it to a Nissan dealer near me it'll be the very first time since high school paying for work to be done but at least I'll know it'll be top of the line and also give everything Else a good check. I will be back with what the answer is as soon as possible thank you all for your help!
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Old Mar 11, 2020 | 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Michael DiBacco
I thought I said he had not done the clutch yet but at 170k im sure its been done before. Take the cover off for the fork on the bellhousing and looking inside looks perfect. For the very first time ever I just don't have the time to work on my car so I sent it to a Nissan dealer near me it'll be the very first time since high school paying for work to be done but at least I'll know it'll be top of the line and also give everything Else a good check. I will be back with what the answer is as soon as possible thank you all for your help!

UPDATE: I had two other guys and a trans shop look at it too no avail. Took it to the dealership and found out its the pivot fork SLIGHTLY bent and a part of the pressure plate broken off. I gave the go ahead to just do the whole clutch job and mayne even the flywheel. Its the first time in my life paying for work and it feels like magic😂
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Old Mar 11, 2020 | 09:15 PM
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Hope they do the upgrade on the clutch fork while they are at it, these forks were known to flex in early models with heavier clutches. If yours has on it in. Would recommend a stronger pivot ball but nissan doesn't have one.
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Old Mar 14, 2020 | 03:37 AM
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Originally Posted by rustyschopshop
Hope they do the upgrade on the clutch fork while they are at it, these forks were known to flex in early models with heavier clutches. If yours has on it in. Would recommend a stronger pivot ball but nissan doesn't have one.
it's getting nissan clutch, fork, throw out, rubber line from slave. They wouldn't warranty the part if its not theirs, I asked about that id rather have the warranty. Should be out of the shop by tues/wed
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Old Mar 18, 2020 | 05:19 AM
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Default All fixed!

I got the Z back last night!!! Clutch was basically toast along with broken fork. All was replaced and feels like NEW! hopefully my troubles saves someone hours of trying to bleed. Thanks everyone who put in their thoughts!
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