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Has a stage 3 XTD clutch. Drove to the carwash, washed the car and started it to leave and the car wouldn’t go into any gears. Tried slamming it into 1st and the car would slowly roll forward when trying to put it into 1st gear. Still wouldn’t go into gear though. Turned the car off, and put it into first. (The car shifts through gears fine when it’s not running) when we put it into first while the car was off, we started it and it jumped forward for a second and then shut off. Now we have no power, the only thing that happens is the key makes the beeping noise when it’s in the ignition. No power no headlights. Nothing. I need some help before I scrap this thing from headaches lol this is my first Z
Your clutch or associated hydraulics are likely hosed.
Check to make sure the clutch fork is activating whilst pressing clutch pedal, if it’s not, most likely hydraulics are bad. If it is, likely clutch failure.
Your clutch or associated hydraulics are likely hosed.
Check to make sure the clutch fork is activating whilst pressing clutch pedal, if it’s not, most likely hydraulics are bad. If it is, likely clutch failure.
Appreciate the feedback. I’ll give it a shot tomorrow after work. I’m home around 5pm everyday so that’s when I’ll be working on things. I’ll update the feed as I try.
Update as of 5/28: Figured out the Fusible link on the positive battery terminal blew (which is the black fuse connected to the positive battery connection) that solves the power issues. Still have the not getting into any gears issue. I wonder if maybe the Master Cyl has gone bad or maybe the Slave Cyl. Anyone have any input?
Update as of 5/28: Figured out the Fusible link on the positive battery terminal blew (which is the black fuse connected to the positive battery connection) that solves the power issues. Still have the not getting into any gears issue. I wonder if maybe the Master Cyl has gone bad or maybe the Slave Cyl. Anyone have any input?
Master or slave..... that's why I told you to check if the clutch release fork is moving. If it's not, one or the other is bad, probably slave or maybe just a bad hose. Have you checked fluid level?
Master or slave..... that's why I told you to check if the clutch release fork is moving. If it's not, one or the other is bad, probably slave or maybe just a bad hose. Have you checked fluid level?
I just checked the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir and it’s at the Min level, and the fluid is Grey. Should I be concerned?
Yes, classic indicators of a leak somewhere in the hydraulic system. Now you should trace the system looking for leaks but first thing, top up the system with DOT 4 before the pedal motion starts sucking air into the system.
Who knows, you could get lucky and topping up the master might fix the issue.
And at the end of all this, you’ll know to have the hydraulic system serviced once a year.
Yes, classic indicators of a leak somewhere in the hydraulic system. Now you should trace the system looking for leaks but first thing, top up the system with DOT 4 before the pedal motion starts sucking air into the system.
Who knows, you could get lucky and topping up the master might fix the issue.
And at the end of all this, you’ll know to have the hydraulic system serviced once a year.
Sounds good to me! I watched some videos on changing the master/Slave so I know exactly where the hose is, and the hard line that goes into the Slave. If I have to change them it doesn’t look that tough. I appreciate all the help! I’ll let you know what happens.
Now may be a good time to upgrade the OEM parts. If you've never bled the clutch before, you're in for a real treat. The OEM hard line looks like this which contributes to why it is so hard to bleed.
Years ago, I was getting the "clutch pedal on the floor" problem, so I replaced the master cylinder, changed from the OEM hard line to a stainless braided line, and new slave cylinder. I've had zero issues since and the clutch feel is vastly improved. I went with the Wilwood MC upgrade from Zspeed. All the parts you need are available from Zspeed and available as a full kit:
I also changed over to a Wilwood fluid reservoir so I could use my Motive power bleeder. Bleeding the clutch is extremely easy now and you don't have to follow the instructions in the FSM. Here's a good DIY on how to do this also: https://my350z.com/forum/engine-driv...voir-swap.html
Now may be a good time to upgrade the OEM parts. If you've never bled the clutch before, you're in for a real treat. The OEM hard line looks like this which contributes to why it is so hard to bleed.
Years ago, I was getting the "clutch pedal on the floor" problem, so I replaced the master cylinder, changed from the OEM hard line to a stainless braided line, and new slave cylinder. I've had zero issues since and the clutch feel is vastly improved. I went with the Wilwood MC upgrade from Zspeed. All the parts you need are available from Zspeed and available as a full kit:
I also changed over to a Wilwood fluid reservoir so I could use my Motive power bleeder. Bleeding the clutch is extremely easy now and you don't have to follow the instructions in the FSM. Here's a good DIY on how to do this also: https://my350z.com/forum/engine-driv...voir-swap.html
wow thanks for all your input. I’m actually gonna go with that Wilwood kit that you linked. Some friends and I are gonna be doing the master and slave together for all of our first times. It feels good to have buddies out there even in these forums. Thanks guys! (Also, wish me luck on bleeding the clutch) haha
Sure thing. Good for you for tacking this on your own. If you don't go with the reservoir swap and decide to bleed it according to the FSM, this is the procedure: https://my350z.com/forum/maintenance...ed-clutch.html
Oh yeah, and you're going to find countless threads on here about problems bleeding it. Haha.
04 350z won’t go into gear when running
