Don't quote me on this because I don't have Cipher, but I believe you should be able to log both the Cam timing solenoid activation and the Cam timing advance/retard. Using that (with the old solenoid in) you should see a disconnect between the data if the solenoid is bad, and it should be in sync on the replacement solenoid.

On the idle, I believe it refers to target idle being adjustable and that means that the ECU may cause the actual idle to jump around a bit because the fueling will be off a little bit. Once fully tuned, erratic idle should stabilize.

The manual seems pretty straight forward for the target idle bump though.

Adjust Target Idle RPM

-Select – Target Idle RPM
Note: Cipher will verify Coolant Temperature within range to ensure changes will be accepted (Min. 80 degree Celsius – Max. 95 degree Celsius).

-Select – Cancel to end verification check and return to Main Screen.
(Once Coolant Temperature is in specified range, Idle Adjustment appears.)

-Select desired Adjust amount.
Note: Maximum actual adjust is 250.

-Select – Save to save changes
-Select – Discard to discard changes

Link to Manual

 

aw, perfect, thanks zazz

 

I think you will be just fine, especially after the motor has about 5k miles on it. I want to see how you do when you hook up the nitrous

 

the ideal situation would be for that noise to just disappear

 

well, still no codes. the rattling still does it most of the time when warm idling, but not all of the time like it used to, so it may be working itself out of it. and i still havent bumped the idle level yet either so that should help too. im feeling a little better about this.

 

still test you oil pressure.. thats vital... if it is to low.. thats not good...

 

im almost sure my oil pressure is good, i dont have an oil light, but i suppose i should check it anyway, i just wish there was an easier way other than wasting so much oil

 

wasting??

 

dump the oil, take out sensor, screw in oil pressure tester, fill with oil, check oil pressure, dump oil, remove oil pressure tester, install oem sensor, fill with oil again

 

You wouldn't have to dump the oil, its in a position that you can pull the plug and get a tester on it and check if you jack up the car from one side (IIRC). Also, FYI, I don't trust the oil presure light. Not sure of all the parameters it illuminates for so I've learned not to trust it.

 

ok, ill see if i can loan a tester from an auto parts store then.

about the oil light, it came on at initial startup when oil pressure was obviously low, so that gives me some faith in it, but you still think its not reliable even though i know its working?

thanks for the reply

 

and i have to add, i had the motor running at initial startup for well over 30 minutes and not one odd noise came out of the engine bay, no rattles or anything

 

Awesome! Break that sucker in! How does it feel? Notice a good pull starting at about 4000 rpm?

 

its broke in, and yes, about 4500 is when it really wakes up. when i bump up the idle i am going to raise the rev limit so i can see if i feel any power dropoff

 

Doing whatever it takes to check the oil pressure is cheaper then redoing the motor.

 

What is your rev limiter at now? I think a 7000 rev limit is perfect, that is what I had and made power to 6850. How many mile do you have on it??

God I can't wait to get my next project car and build the motor I swap in... I have nothing to tinker with anymore... Although I cut a hole in the stock air of on my 300c today and what a difference it made! Lol

 

yea, ill check it. if it is low, i guess i need a new oil pump then???

 

my rev limiter is just at the stock non-rev location, whatever that is. ill probably set it to 7800 or so. im sure my peak wont be that high, but might as well have the option if i want it. about 500 miles or so.

 

Without a lot of intake\header work (mostly intake) I think you'll cap out at around 7200-7500 as far as useful RPMs.

 

That is pretty optimistic