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Injected Performance brings you HALTECH PLATINUM PNP STANDALONE

Old Feb 21, 2010 | 02:33 PM
  #761  
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could be possible as i am ground my AEM not thru the haltech harness. Its an easy fit by just editing my wideband calibration, just time consuming.
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Old Feb 21, 2010 | 03:11 PM
  #762  
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just confirmed we used the larget sensor (3/8) and retapped the forward most hole in the Cosworth plenum. I knew I had bought both, but couldn't remember which we used
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Old Feb 21, 2010 | 03:21 PM
  #763  
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Originally Posted by str8dum1
could be possible as i am ground my AEM not thru the haltech harness. Its an easy fit by just editing my wideband calibration, just time consuming.
But your assuming that the difference in voltage is constant which it may not be. The point of having the reference is that it is always calcutlaing the "difference" and adjusting accordingly.
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Old Feb 22, 2010 | 06:19 AM
  #764  
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True, I'll have to do some logging when I get the car running.

Alot of time, tuners are using their own tailpipe sniffer wideband to tune with which didnt match my AEM anyhow.

I have to do some more wiring so I might just extend the Haltech ground reference and Tie it into my current AEM ground and see what that does
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Old Feb 22, 2010 | 10:48 PM
  #765  
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Originally Posted by Hal@IP
The Haltech 350Z ems is setup for the 350Z trigger pattern and is not enduser-adjustable. Do you know what the pattern is on the VQ30 or have a picture of the trigger wheels (cam and crank)?

The Haltech 350Z ems has a user adjustable rev limiter and will go as high as you like - but, 04.5+ 350Z's close the throttle plate at stock redline and require a reflash to rev higher.
There are some VQ30 cam and crank pictures around taken with a good oscilliscope but I can't find them anymore. They have some in the FSMs but they are hard to read. If I do find the good o-scope traces I will let you know.

However this setup will use the VQ35 heads with the cam sensors still in them. I also believe that the number of teeth on the flywheel is identical to the 350Z so all three signals will be there. The throttle body will be mechanical so no DBW issues.
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Old Feb 23, 2010 | 04:31 AM
  #766  
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bump for advice?


Originally Posted by str8dum1
so just testing the Haltech before my startup and I have a couple questions.

Also, if i just put the car to ACC and not ON, my meth pump comes on. That means that the haltech must be grounding the line out. Once I put the car to ON, the meth pump turns off.

Ever see that before?
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Old Feb 23, 2010 | 05:32 AM
  #767  
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Originally Posted by str8dum1
bump for advice?
Not sure what is going on with your setup - but an immediate fix is change the +12v trigger wire on your Meth Relay to ON-switched or Fuel-Pump-Switched.

Also, I would wire the wideband through the Haltech to minimize/eliminate ground offset problems.

Last edited by Dynosty; Feb 23, 2010 at 05:33 AM.
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Old Feb 23, 2010 | 05:34 AM
  #768  
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Originally Posted by 98seblackmax
There are some VQ30 cam and crank pictures around taken with a good oscilliscope but I can't find them anymore. They have some in the FSMs but they are hard to read. If I do find the good o-scope traces I will let you know.

However this setup will use the VQ35 heads with the cam sensors still in them. I also believe that the number of teeth on the flywheel is identical to the 350Z so all three signals will be there. The throttle body will be mechanical so no DBW issues.
If the flywheel teeth are the same as the 350Z, and you are using VQ35 heads and cam sensors - then it shouldn't be a problem. The only thing you may face is an tooth offset / trigger angle issue, which we can help with.
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Old Feb 23, 2010 | 05:50 AM
  #769  
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thats a good idea, juts power my trigger realy off my fuel pump. I havent put a multimeter on the Haltech trigger, but if its suppling a ground in the ACC position, that is not normal correct? I bought the unit new from Forged.

Do i pull power for the AEM gauge thru the haltech wiring also, of just run the ground to the harness?


Originally Posted by Hal@IP
Not sure what is going on with your setup - but an immediate fix is change the +12v trigger wire on your Meth Relay to ON-switched or Fuel-Pump-Switched.

Also, I would wire the wideband through the Haltech to minimize/eliminate ground offset problems.
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Old Feb 23, 2010 | 06:08 AM
  #770  
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Originally Posted by str8dum1
thats a good idea, juts power my trigger realy off my fuel pump. I havent put a multimeter on the Haltech trigger, but if its suppling a ground in the ACC position, that is not normal correct? I bought the unit new from Forged.

Do i pull power for the AEM gauge thru the haltech wiring also, of just run the ground to the harness?
I run the power&ground on the Haltech harness. Wiring instructions are on our site.
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Old Feb 23, 2010 | 06:55 AM
  #771  
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Originally Posted by str8dum1
thats a good idea, juts power my trigger realy off my fuel pump. I havent put a multimeter on the Haltech trigger, but if its suppling a ground in the ACC position, that is not normal correct? I bought the unit new from Forged.

Do i pull power for the AEM gauge thru the haltech wiring also, of just run the ground to the harness?
I'm not sure how the meth setup is tied in to the Haltech. Are you using the aux output as a trigger? If so, can you confirm it goes to ground with a multimeter when ignition set to ACC even though conditions are not met (what are the conditions?).
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Old Feb 23, 2010 | 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by str8dum1
thats a good idea, juts power my trigger realy off my fuel pump. I havent put a multimeter on the Haltech trigger, but if its suppling a ground in the ACC position, that is not normal correct? I bought the unit new from Forged.

Do i pull power for the AEM gauge thru the haltech wiring also, of just run the ground to the harness?
It's possible that the Haltech's output is resting at 12vdc and your control wire is at ground when in the ACC position (it is typical for ignition wires to rest at ground when in the ACC position but obviously not in the 'on' position)

What does the output connect to? A relay? A controller box? You should be able to test this fairly easily with a volt meter.
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 10:02 AM
  #773  
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Any news about a switch or somthing to adjust boost on the fly?
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 10:34 AM
  #774  
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Originally Posted by midz350
Any news about a switch or somthing to adjust boost on the fly?
It is easy to setup a switch to disable boost control, which would drop you to wastegate. That is what I would suggest if you are worried about someone else driving the car etc. Additionally, you can setup boost by speed so that when boost control is enabled, you can drive with maximum power per speed/gear. In the case you want to turn boost up for race gas or something of that nature, you are going to have to load a racegas map anyways to adjust the fuel/ignition.
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 04:39 PM
  #775  
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I dont even have the aux output activated right now. Its doing it on its own

Right now the Haltech is grounding a relay that is used to trigger anothe relay under the hood that supplies the power to the meth pump.

So only standard setup on the relay in the car. switched 12V into 2 pins, 12V out and the ground triggered by the Haltech. So without the ground, there should be no 12V out.

I have to get under the dash with the MM to see what pin is activating. But I just basically unplugged my UTEC and plugged in the Haltech into that relay. They both trigger the exact same way (or are supposed to)

Originally Posted by KPierson
It's possible that the Haltech's output is resting at 12vdc and your control wire is at ground when in the ACC position (it is typical for ignition wires to rest at ground when in the ACC position but obviously not in the 'on' position)

What does the output connect to? A relay? A controller box? You should be able to test this fairly easily with a volt meter.
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Old Feb 26, 2010 | 11:58 AM
  #776  
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This post makes me laugh alil, being that it was made almost 2.5 years ago...

Originally Posted by Hal@IP
Old ecu maps will work with software updates, no need for a retune.

I'd rather not put a date on the map switching because nothing ever runs "on time". It should not be long though.
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Old Feb 26, 2010 | 03:34 PM
  #777  
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Proof positive that Hal is a smart guy . In all fairness, although I've been waiting for a few nice odds and ends (I/O box???), the Haltech team has come through on a number of solid improvements since the original release (in large part with Hal's testing, feedback, and devotion to this platform).

Last edited by rcdash; Feb 26, 2010 at 03:35 PM.
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Old Mar 9, 2010 | 06:23 PM
  #778  
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How do you add/remove channels that get logged using the data manager at the bottom of the screen.

I have a log saved from the other day on the road but it only shows Ign1 Angle. My car is misfiring alot and I want to see if i get the same 300*++ numbers on the other 5 Ign angle channels.

I dont get any codes, so I want to see if I can narrow it down to a specific cylinder
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Old Mar 9, 2010 | 07:09 PM
  #779  
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Originally Posted by str8dum1
How do you add/remove channels that get logged using the data manager at the bottom of the screen.

I have a log saved from the other day on the road but it only shows Ign1 Angle. My car is misfiring alot and I want to see if i get the same 300*++ numbers on the other 5 Ign angle channels.

I dont get any codes, so I want to see if I can narrow it down to a specific cylinder
Main Setup, click the Data Logging tab, click Add/Remove. You may need to clear any saved logs first.
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Old Mar 9, 2010 | 07:15 PM
  #780  
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hmm, that doesnt seem to be it because when I play back my log in Data Manager, none of the channels that are displayed when I loaded my .CSV file are actually selected in that data logging F4 tab.
Screen shot of all the channels available on the Data Manager


Screen Shot of what I had selected on the F4 setup. They don't match

Last edited by str8dum1; Mar 9, 2010 at 07:26 PM.
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