I am running 1.07.4 and all of my gauge pages are still there. If you uninstalled or removed them, you can create new ones however you like. Just right click on an open spot to add gauges, traces, lists, etc.

 

Thanx we got it sorted out
Engine has started but we lost the throttle signal so something is wrong making it impossible to rev it. Going to check it tomorrow. Guessing its just a conection in our electrical wiring that's lost but it might be some fail safe mode. But as I get it if it's a limp mode the TP signal shouldn't be lost, or? Fore example if the TPS is failing the acceleration should be slow, not unexacting, right?
BTW here's some clip form engine and the idling engine.

http://www.youtube.com/user/Mr350zzz.../1/T0vvNUa4D7k

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WXwjEc8r6Xo

 

/\ Very nice.

 

I've never seen a VQ on an engine dyno before - thanks for sharing and look forward to more vids. I'm not sure how you control all the computer signals outside the car???

 

We got som real issue here. Can't controll the throttle. Friday we started up and could just run on aprox 2500 rpm, no response to gas pedal at all. So we let it rest 24 hours to let the DTC disappear (emission codes take that time to disappear). Then we double checked all connections and the tried w/ ignition on. First it responded perfectly to gas pedal but it lost contact. Throttle position signal is intact though. It seems like it sets a code (DTC) making it go into limp mode, freezing the throttle at aprox 5-10% open.
So questions are:

1. Is it possible to run engine w/ just engine harness or do one need more components/harnesses for CAN communication?

2. Is it possible to tune if we rebuild throttle hose so we can controll throttle mechanically. Problem might be the ECU is in some kind of limp mode, blocking normal operation like ignition, injectors or cam solenoids.

3. I didn't find a wiring diagram of the OBD port so question is if it's possible to connect a DTC computer like Consult to read DTC and reset them?

PLEASE HELP!

 

What are the exact codes you are getting? From the sound of it, the ecu is definitely in limp mode, and there could be many causes for it.

 

Yes, even a generic scanner can reset the DTC. Cipher can also. I'm not sure if the ECM can run in the absence of the BCM and ABS without going into limp mode. I doubt it though perhaps a dealership can get the ECM to ignore all those DTCs via the consult. For that matter a custom UpRev flash might be able to do that also...

 

Thanx for replying
Got all help needed from Hal so engine is now running perfectly in engine dyno. Hal rocks

 

I'm curious to know how you got it to work, if you get a chance - thanks.

 

All the sensors at engine had to be rewired w/ power and ground and the alternator had to get the accesory wires connected to the engine harness to make the alternator produce power (crucial to get a stable tune, due to need for >14V power).

We first tryed to get the removed stock accel pedal electrical drive by wire to work by connect al 6 wires (it has 2 potentiometers that the ECU alterates between and compares) to the accel pedal but the ECU seemes to throw a CEL and put the ECU in limp mode, freezing the throttle. So we drilld out the "fasteners" (donno the eng name for those) and milled a rod from the throttle axle to the TPS, that's is located in the black plastic cover that came loose. Than weld a arm to let us mecanically moving the throttle. Than building distances that held the cover (w/ the TPS) far enough form throttlebody to leting us mecaniclaly control the throttle using a mecanical wire to the controll room and till let the axle to be in contact at the same angle w/ the TPS.

Now the problem was that the Haltec had a map w/ copy-through in ignition table, that was the problem. That allowed the ECU limp mode blockeing the ingition signal and as a result the engine run bad. After Hal had explain the functon of Haltec it mad perfectly sense and the we swaped the "c" in ignition tabels to values and engine run perfectly

Edit: there's no way connecting a Consult II to the engine so there's no way you can read or cancel DTC. If you want to do that you have to take the ECU to another 350z and replace that ECU w/ your and read and delite DTC in both NATS system and DTC system using those cards. (you can't start that car w/ that ECU, but read and delite DTC works fine.

 

check your ground wire on the first timing cover

 

Can you changed boost with the Haltech on the fly??

let's say you want to disable the boost control in 1st & 2nd and run on WG's pressure and enable the boost control switch in after going into 3rd (keep the switch near ) that would be helpful in slippery rods.


p.s I will be getting the modified HR harness hopefully later this week and waiting Hal to send me the base map. (hint,hint...)

 

Yes, you can have a boost control enable/disable that switches between wastegate and boost control... low boost / high boost switch. This would be done by putting a switch or relay on the hot side of the bcs.

Better yet, you can setup boost control to be based on wheel speed. This means you can run wastegate in lower gears and start ramping in more boost in higher gears where traction is not as much of a problem. Wheel speed is read in from the OEM CAN bus so no wiring is required. In the case of your HR, I have not looked into 07+ Z's to see if they share the same CAN messages.

 

So you modified the throttle body for manual cable control and removed copy through timing. Can you fix the TB back to use drive by wire? Or you just sacrificed it for engine dyno testing?

 

That's correct. And yes, by using new rivets that held the TB "lid" it's really easy to restore the drive by wire within 5 minutes

 

Good show! So how did the engine do? Show us some goodies!

 

I knew about all that, what I was trying to say is: can I flip the switch while going full throttle to enable the BCS after shifting into 3rd and keep it disable in 1st/2nd ?


The boost by speed is a nice thing but here the traction vary from street to street so it will not be needed all the time.

 

Yes.

 

Thanks Hal.

 

I have a 2005 350Z with stock motor and APS TT using a Uni Chip.

What benefits (if any) would I get by installing a Haltech?

My main issues are no traction in low gears and exhaust smell (especially at idle).

Haltech warranty period?
Transferable warranty?

Installation cost with tuning?

Thanks for your help.