^ over 500 IMO, with that set up, just because you can dont mean you need to rev that high.

Im sticking to about 7500rpms on the 2.87 or 7Krpms on the 2.62 pulley which ever yeilds 20psi with the least belt issues.

the 2.62 held up like a champ after one adjustment, but not sure how long in 100 degree weather will that hold and stick. This winter should be fine but when it heats up, not sure if that will make a diff. or not.

 

God I want a Vortech like RIGHT NOW!

 

I wouldn't trust stock springs at 8k. After removing mine and inspecting against my ferrea valve springs the stock seem very small and weak. Also with a single valve spring with fixed diameter coil (not conical) it's hard to tell where there would be harmonics that causes a spring to lose it's tension.

We had that problem on some of our race bike engines. Strong spring but with the coils the same diameter the whole spring vibrated at the same frequency which allowed it to sack out around 12k rpms and have float way before redline. Past 12k it was ok but it was at that area that we had serious issues. dual springs or conical springs will prevent harmonics.

 

^ ill stick to 7500 then, if we even get there.

FYI the long tubes are Megan racing 2.25 at the collector which the exhaust I run is only 2.5 so I guess it works out.

 

My OBX ones have a 2.5 collector, but I plan on upgrading to the PPE ones when they come out, I need to replace my entire ebay exhaust setup...

 

Authentic HKS here in DC for 600 picked up! (National G Club Classifieds)

 

I am going to a single exhaust personally

 

saw headers for the first time last night, they are 2.5 at the collector!

sweetness! Installed just need Wideban Bung inserted.

 

Just remove the rear o2 sensors with Osiris and put them in there

 

You might just be the first person to test the Meagans lth and have a back to back dynos. Also maybe the only vortech to have lth too?

 

A buddy here in dc had ttrim lth on a convert 350z, now is sleeved stroked and a headache to maintain.

im stickicking with my belts and rebuilds every 50K miles. So much less drama IMO.

dyno wont really prove too much because ive changed so much.

oil cooler and bigger FMIC alone is huge power diff.

 

I DO NOT, a car that is hard to keep on the road... and how would an Oil cooler increase power???

 

Keeps oil temps in the normal range. As oil gets too hot it loses its ability to reduce friction which loses hp. Small amounts, but still a change.

 

not that big of a deal, quick drill, quick weld. already on. lol

 

New dyno numbers please

 

^ I have at least a week left.

rebuilding blower with new bearings. Powercoating all pipes intakes and SC bracket, maybe SC housing.

meth is installed but not tuned up yet.

oil cooler not in either.

relocating oil catch can.

maybe by the end of next week.

 

I want to see this thing break 600, and why are you rebuilding it?

 

it already hit 600 but it wasnt safe nor repeatable for long periods of time. Thats why all the cooling upgrades. Also found a hole in one of my pipes, rubbing against a screw. So I made 600+ @ 22.5psi (pulled timing to get 557.7) but with a boost leak!

LMAO!

I will stop at 650 no matter what. Im sure c16 will hit 700 or very close to it. This engine im telling you is freggin so tight and well made. Hats off to Hills for blue printing my blue printed engine for FREE!

at this point my stage 2 clutch can only hold about 550TQ so thats my limit for this version.

pump gas can only take you so far!

 

So, did you have a good weekend? Dyno tomorrow?

 

Powdercoating all pipes, group by cf drive shaft, at least a week n a half to two Weeks out yet.