Jermanie,

Does it mean that with the UTEC, the 350z that has grounding kit installed is not likely to have this type of power hesitation/drop problem?

because I have this type of engine hesitation going on (but there is no power drop or anything) with my motec at 2100rpm ONLY under cruising condition... and the hesitation goes away either by lifting off the throttle or giving more throttle.. and my tuner takes a look at the cams position and it just so happens that when the engine hesitates, the cam angels (both sides) are jumping up and down (to "0").... that makes me wonder if it is the grounding problem too... since my motec is grounded to wherever the stock ECU is grounded I THINK (since I am using a plug and play wiring loom)...

cheers,

richie

 

Why does everyone from Australia say Cheers after their posts??LOL

 

Alot of us in the UK do as well.

Cheers,

Jon.

 

Alot of drinking going on huh? Cheers!!

 

i had the problem


ps. Turbo xs is a stand up company for solving this.. I cant wait to get back from Iraq and get in my car all tuned and running strong!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Jermaine,

Im the owner of the Z that Japtrix was having the problems with last week. Please read my thread below....and let me know what you think of the stalling/hesistation problems Im having currently.

My thread:
https://my350z.com/forum/tuning/194625-utec-guru-s-help.html

 

Why does everyone in United States have a gun?

 

Because we can.

 

Grounding can only help, with what I was able to discover over the last few weeks. A good ground with help reduce noise. It is something you learn in school but, sometimes it becomes an oversight. Small oversights give silly mods like grounding kits an open road to success. While just cleaning the contact surfaces on the chassis would like do the same thing.

I would agree that you should try to secure all ground and possibly run a shorter ground directly to the MOTEC. Make sure it is a ground point, I don't want to be the reason you shorted out your 2k EMS.

Will take a look shortly!



Jermaine~
www.turboxs.com
301-977-4727

 

Thanks Jeramine!!

Appreciate for your input! I will ask my tuner to take a look at that option when I get the car serviced next time!

cheers (again!!!)

richie

 

I know i will get flamed for this..but keep in mind..disrespectful members will get banned!! LOL
However, i dont know if im having the same issue or not..When im at WOT..around 5-6k rpm..i feel a sudden hesitation that will last for 1 sec..and then it picks back up..i am running the map that was provided by TXS website..and i dont have that molex connector connected at all. Is this only because it needs a tune, or did i do something wrong? Does the Molex connector have to be installed in order for the UTEC to properly work. I apologize if its a dumb question, just very new when it comes to tuning and ecu stuff.

 

you are having the problem.. ground your ish

 

that sounds like the knock retard kicking in.The base map they send is way conservative and the knock sensitivity is way sensitive. Get your car to a dyno and tune it.

 

^^ +1 for the knock sensitivity. If you are feeling the hesitation consistently in the same RPM range then you need to go and knock back timing a degree for that shift point. I can say I was having a similar problem but I would get the knock in that range once in every 3-5 pulls after resetting the ECU and UTEC. I tried knocking back timing but it felt like I was pulling too much timing. So I decreased the knock sensitivity a tad and everything has been fine from that point.

But I had a UTEC with my Subaru and did most of the tuning myself, so I am fairly experienced. As people familiar with UTECs will tell you, the knock sensitivity is set that way to keep people from blowing up their engines by tinkering with their cars without a wideband and/or EGT.

If you are running the exact same setup as the UTEC map recommends (and I mean exact) then it probably will not hurt to decrease the knock sensitivity by 2-3 in the affected RPM range. But I would highly recommend that you take it to someone familiar with tuning to ensure that there is not another issue with your car.

 

I have the grounding kit installed in my car and i don't have the problem. I just tried yesterday6k+ RPM 2nd, 3rd, then 4th gear....no sputter. I still will go back and ground the black wire from the Molex though....thanks Jermaine

BTW, I got my kit from ebay - Z327 in red...I have to say. It is a very exact kit, fits very well...just enough line for each placement and instructions were great...it even had pic each wire install and a recap of what should be at what point when you're done. And yes, it was in color not like some of the other crap on ebay that photocopy instructions so U can't make head or tails of the diagrams.

 

Any recommendations on where to install the Tuner Wideband and the Map Selector Switch?

 

I popped out my unused dummy switch plate by the TCS switch and put the remote selector there. Tuner wide band....wherever else you want i guess....

 

Z4Zum: Do you have a picture of that? That's a good idea.

 

Catch is you'll have to be patient. I removed the side sill, the foot rest pedal, then the lower kick panel. From there you use a flat head screwdriver to pop the clips and pop out the dummy switch. Stick the Molex end thru first and wire it to the passenger's side and connect to the UTEC. The wire's stiff so just put some bend in the wire before you click the remote switch in place on the panel (otherwise it'll start to "tilt" on you- it's a tick wire, you'll see what i mean.) I tried loading the images but it didn't go thru....pm me you email and i'll send it that way.....I dunno why it's not uploading- sorry

 

^^^Thanks. I'll PM you now.