Hey BlackTuner, Im having some codes thrown that several other people I was with recently were throwing as well. I will attempt to give you a call later today to discuss but wanted to make you aware. Error code is 1404 which has to do with EVAP volume control. Something of that nature. I only have test pipes. Another Z with just an intake was throwing it as well as an N/A G35 with a bunch of mods threw the same code. Going to be talking to our tuner to hopefully resolve this as well. Myself and the other Z were also getting a nasty dip at 5000 rpm. My thoughts are that my ground might just not be in good conact with the recomeded grounding point so will double check that. Thanks! Killer product, was a lot of fun to have on a track!

 

I just found this thread today because I am having a UTEC installed next month. Thank you for going public with the problem and finding the fix quickly. Great work!

 

Tim,

You shouldn't have any troubles with the newer Utecs. When you get ready to install it, hit me up. You have to make a few mods to cleanly get the UTEC up into location on the G.

 

I am xperiencing major knock problems with my UTEC. Apparently after installing JWT S1 cams, I attempted to get the car tuned. The tuner showed me that the car was retarding timing due to the excessive knock it was picking up both on and off throttle. (Even more off throttle). What do you suggest I do...Tune around the knock. I already brought the car back to the shop to have the cam install verified, and the install was deemed perfect. I have also upgraded the valvetrain.
Why do I have this Knock problem. Should I just raise the knock threshhold and tune around it?

 

btw did you raise the idle?

set it at 850 -900

 

Are you seeing random 1-2 knock counts? If so, you might try reducing the sensitivity.

 

i have noticed that with some head work done, the valves and valvetrain chatter a little bit more and cause some knocking sounds that the utec picks up....


i would turn down the knock sensitivity a little and see if that gets rid of it.

my sensitivity in my car is around 100 100 90 80 70 70 but in the car thats chattery around here , we had to set it at 70 70 60 50 50 50 or it would just retard the timing full time, even at idle it was showing knock with my figures...

 

I just raised the idle this past weekend. Cost me $100 bucks at the Stealership. But the car starts beter than before and doesn't stall when I come to any stop. Much better to drive. My concern now is when I get back to the tuning shop ICS in CT. The tuner Junior is very concerned about the knock. It picks up knock as I said both on high RPM's and especially when I get off the throttle.
Can it be just the new valvetrain noise? The install was double and triple checked. Assume it is perfect. Is the valvetrain JWT S1 and new springs that noisy?

In order to turn down the sensitivity, don't you mean to raise the threshhold to some higher number like 50 or 60, to allow for a lot more knocks before it retards timing???

 

I'm not sure why you list a lot of numbers 100, 100, 90, 80. I thought there was only 1 setting to adjust?

 

Sharif, the knocks are random, it will start with a 1 or 2 then off throttle it jumps to 12 or 15, its very strange.

 

there are sensitivity settings for numnerous rpms bands in the UTEC.....

1000-2000 rpm
2000-3000 rpm
3000-4000 rpm

etcetera

 

Awesome, I was kinda put down in the beginning cuz I am thinking of changing to the UTEC sometime later next year and thought you guys are discontinuing.

So all future units will including grounding wires now?

 

The current units had the grounding wires..Just no one ever hooked them up properly. Some units need the ground some work fine without it, it depends on the idividual car. Most of the cars with grounding issues were G35's due to the lack of the grounding bracket.

 

I know this is old thread.. But I have G35 and Utec.. And I am keep getting P0300 Code.. And I tried to do everything to get good ground but it stil comes on.. Any ideas guys??

 

Try adding a little more fuel at idle..

 

Thanks.. I'll go try that right now..

 

Ok.. I add more fuel.. And earsed the code with OBD II reader.. And drove around littlebit.. And light hasn't came on yet.. I was trying to idle around 14.7.. So I was cutting fuel off.. Now 13.8 ~ 14.0.. Is it not good to try to get the AFR at idle around 14.7?? Thanks..

 

the stock ecu will try to correct the A:F back to roughyl 14.7:1 when under its control. just for fun, I switched my UTEC back to the "0" map to see what would happen.....the car idled fine. At first, it was rough, but then the ECU startd scaling back my 550s and it was doing a good job at it.

 

you got 550's?? bastard..

 

So this brings me to my biggest point of contention with trying to tune the 0% column, say you pick a number -18 for example, if this is too lean then the ECU will auto add in more fuel and so it'll seem like this is a good number. The same will happen if the number that you pick is too rich, the ecu will scale back the fueliing ...

One thing I've noticed is that when I am driving along under light load conditions and I let off the throttle completely, the AF will swing back to about 12.8 and then swing back up because of being a free air condition. So, my question is, what should the AF do once you let off the throttle completely ???

Colin