power
1. Epic first post.
2. You purchased the wrong car if you have plans for building.
3. Search
4. You'll need about $30,000 if you want to do it right and you're not doing any of the work yourself.
2. You purchased the wrong car if you have plans for building.
3. Search
4. You'll need about $30,000 if you want to do it right and you're not doing any of the work yourself.
Granted that's a noob post and he could've searched.
But please dont spread discouraging bullish!t information like "you purchased the wrong car if you have plans for building" and " you'll need about 30K......"
But please dont spread discouraging bullish!t information like "you purchased the wrong car if you have plans for building" and " you'll need about 30K......"
If he's looking to build the engine, do a FI build and have a shop do the work he's going to need atleast $30k. I don't see how giving him a reality of the cost is BS.
I was referring more so to the "you bought the wrong car comment". The Z is still a great platform to build.
I also highly disagree on the "at least 30K" part but to each his own when it comes to someone getting robbed by a shop.
Either way I don't think he was asking for a full blown FI build by a shop, who knows maybe he car install internals himself
I also highly disagree on the "at least 30K" part but to each his own when it comes to someone getting robbed by a shop.
Either way I don't think he was asking for a full blown FI build by a shop, who knows maybe he car install internals himself
I was referring more so to the "you bought the wrong car comment". The Z is still a great platform to build.
I also highly disagree on the "at least 30K" part but to each his own when it comes to someone getting robbed by a shop.
Either way I don't think he was asking for a full blown FI build by a shop, who knows maybe he car install internals himself
I also highly disagree on the "at least 30K" part but to each his own when it comes to someone getting robbed by a shop.
Either way I don't think he was asking for a full blown FI build by a shop, who knows maybe he car install internals himself

FI kit with necessary fuel compliments: $10,000
IPP Shortblock: $5,500
Drivetrain parts: $1,500
Install: $10,000 (short changing it)
Custom tune and dyno time: $700
Shipping, tax, etc: $2,000
Total: $29,700
I'm sure I'm leaving something out
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No, I scraped that build plan because of the outrageous cost. but if you want it done right, by the right shop it's going to cost that.
Last edited by Nismo350z#0310; Apr 5, 2013 at 12:38 PM.
Thank god I don't need a shop lol
You have an HR , a nice single (along the lines of the boosted performance kit)with upgraded fuel components, radiator and a tune is what I'll be doing after I run a few tenths better in the 1/4 the way my car sits now. Which would be well under 10k easy
You have an HR , a nice single (along the lines of the boosted performance kit)with upgraded fuel components, radiator and a tune is what I'll be doing after I run a few tenths better in the 1/4 the way my car sits now. Which would be well under 10k easy
Ouch on your shop quotes, on my previous Z that I had a Colorado shop do a built motor (eagle/CP, stage 3 cams, return fuel system, stage 5 clutch, tune, ems) AND Greddy 20G TT kit came out to 14K turn key. At the time I got the full 20G kit w/ intercooler for 7K flat as part of the turn-key setup and the rest was for all the other parts and labor - the shop sourced a brand new in box full greddy kit on a fire sale price at the time.
Shop around more is what I would advise, possibly even reach out of state if your shops dont seem to be that competitive. For 30K that's quite a bit unless if you tell them for a super high HP setup or something that's shooting for ultra high reliability and sparing no expense on top shelf parts and even then it sounds like you are still paying some for the name/rep of the shop.
Either way FI is an expensive undertaking no matter which way you skin it, to the OP, I would advise start by just doing the turbo/SC kit first, bigger injectors with a solid tune and clutch first and stick to around 400-500 max without a return fuel system. That helps make the whole FI cause a bit more affordable so you don't have such a huge upfront cost and can still have a fast car to enjoy. That'll probably be anywhere up to 10-12K with normal shops. If you go with big name shops expect higher, for example my current Z that I bought off a buddy had it done by a big shop in California and just for TT turn key it was 17K, with some probably miscallenous stuff done that was probably pricey. Whereas my other previous Z's w/ TT kit installs would be around the 8-10K range all said and done with Colorado shops. Depends really how much you get your FI kit for as thats the biggest cost first.
I'd say just do it in steps.
Back to the original noob post:
I wouldn't go past 400 whp at sea level or 500 whp at high altitude (corrected SAE #'s), ran my Z's in CO at 500whp/tq corrected and never had issues but wouldn't do that at sea level
As for with aftermarket rods/pistons, 500-1K+ depending on what you go with and what you do to address fuel, how much air your FI system can flow, blah blah blah.
Aftermarket parts are made for power, your gonna have more of a problem with how deep your pockets are then how much power a rod/piston combo can hold. For example, does no good to have say hardcore pauter rods and arias pistons and be running a stage 1 stillen SC when that kit probably can't even break the stock rods/pistons to begin with, no offense to the stillen guys - the roots blower sounds awesome
Shop around more is what I would advise, possibly even reach out of state if your shops dont seem to be that competitive. For 30K that's quite a bit unless if you tell them for a super high HP setup or something that's shooting for ultra high reliability and sparing no expense on top shelf parts and even then it sounds like you are still paying some for the name/rep of the shop.
Either way FI is an expensive undertaking no matter which way you skin it, to the OP, I would advise start by just doing the turbo/SC kit first, bigger injectors with a solid tune and clutch first and stick to around 400-500 max without a return fuel system. That helps make the whole FI cause a bit more affordable so you don't have such a huge upfront cost and can still have a fast car to enjoy. That'll probably be anywhere up to 10-12K with normal shops. If you go with big name shops expect higher, for example my current Z that I bought off a buddy had it done by a big shop in California and just for TT turn key it was 17K, with some probably miscallenous stuff done that was probably pricey. Whereas my other previous Z's w/ TT kit installs would be around the 8-10K range all said and done with Colorado shops. Depends really how much you get your FI kit for as thats the biggest cost first.
I'd say just do it in steps.
Back to the original noob post:
I wouldn't go past 400 whp at sea level or 500 whp at high altitude (corrected SAE #'s), ran my Z's in CO at 500whp/tq corrected and never had issues but wouldn't do that at sea level

As for with aftermarket rods/pistons, 500-1K+ depending on what you go with and what you do to address fuel, how much air your FI system can flow, blah blah blah.
Aftermarket parts are made for power, your gonna have more of a problem with how deep your pockets are then how much power a rod/piston combo can hold. For example, does no good to have say hardcore pauter rods and arias pistons and be running a stage 1 stillen SC when that kit probably can't even break the stock rods/pistons to begin with, no offense to the stillen guys - the roots blower sounds awesome
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