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I'm almost certain I'm going to have to replace my oil gallery gaskets. I'm capable of doing it, I have a service manual pdf downloaded. I just have to find the torque specs. I'm looking for the parts needed, including gaskets, silicone. Everything to do the job pretty much. Tools list? I'm trying to be as prepared as possible. I want to get this done within 2 days. Thanks guys!
I'm almost certain I'm going to have to replace my oil gallery gaskets. I'm capable of doing it, I have a service manual pdf downloaded. I just have to find the torque specs. I'm looking for the parts needed, including gaskets, silicone. Everything to do the job pretty much. Tools list? I'm trying to be as prepared as possible. I want to get this done within 2 days. Thanks guys!
Torque specs for the gallery covers? There is no torque spec for them. I would recommend just getting them snug and using Loctite to ensure they don't back themselves out (better safe than sorry). All other specs should be in the FSM.
You're going to need a basic mechanic's tool set, a scraper, the gaskets, RTV, and a torque wrench. These are basic. The FSM will list everything you need as you read through the section (EM-48) for disassembly and re-assembly.
Good luck! This is a PITA job
Last edited by 813_350Z; Dec 13, 2019 at 09:55 PM.
Actual parts list - Taken from Z1 links and verified thats its the newest part as of December 2019
Gallery gaskets - OEM parts have been upgraded with a metal internal layer. Aftermarket kits are available with hex drive screws and it is recommended to use blue threadlocker when installing. CZP recommends 12ft/lb for screw torque. CZP kit is not the upgraded OEM metal gasket but an aftermarket material.
(1) - Only needed if removing the rear timing cover (not needed for gallery gasket replacement) Medium Timing Cover O-Ring - 15066-ZL80C
(1) - Only needed if removing the rear timing cover (not needed for gallery gasket replacement)Large Timing Cover O-Ring - 15066-ZL80D
(1) - Dipstick tube O-Ring - 15066-4W000
Nissan RTV - 999MP-A7007 There is a section GI in the FSM that has alternative RTVs. Permatex Ultra Grey 82194 is listed.
Water pump O-rings - Why not your already in there
21049-JK20A - Rear
21049-JK20B - Front
Timing chain kit - If you feel like it due to high mileage, poor mantace, or just because. I think replacing the cam chains require taking the valve covers off.
(1) - Main Timing Chain Tensioner Guide - 13091-JK20A
(1) - Main Timing Chain Top Guide - 13085-JK20A
(1) - Crank Sprocket - 13021-AL51A
Other: More why not
(1) Thermostat - 21200-JK20A
(1) Water pump - B1010-JK20A
Tools:
I have not used this but it was suggested in another gallery gasket thread. You can use a brake piston spreader to remove the front timing cover using the two tab locations on the bottom half of the cover. Gently go back and forth on both sides don't try to break the RTV in one go. Your still have to use the normal pry location on the top of the cover. The linked spreader looks like it might work.
Brake caliper spreader:
If you have the time and space I recommend just taking the whole radiator core support off. You can swing the A/C condenser out of the way and it give you more room to work and a better view.
Actual parts list - Taken from Z1 links and verified thats its the newest part as of December 2019
Gallery gaskets - OEM parts have been upgraded with a metal internal layer. Aftermarket kits are available with hex drive screws and it is recommended to use blue threadlocker when installing. CZP recommends 12ft/lb for screw torque. CZP kit is not the upgraded OEM metal gasket but an aftermarket material.
(1) - Only needed if removing the rear timing cover (not needed for gallery gasket replacement) Medium Timing Cover O-Ring - 15066-ZL80C
(1) - Only needed if removing the rear timing cover (not needed for gallery gasket replacement)Large Timing Cover O-Ring - 15066-ZL80D
(1) - Dipstick tube O-Ring - 15066-4W000
Nissan RTV - 999MP-A7007 There is a section GI in the FSM that has alternative RTVs. Permatex Ultra Grey 82194 is listed.
Water pump O-rings - Why not your already in there
21049-JK20A - Rear
21049-JK20B - Front
Timing chain kit - If you feel like it due to high mileage, poor mantace, or just because. I think replacing the cam chains require taking the valve covers off.
(1) - Main Timing Chain Tensioner Guide - 13091-JK20A
(1) - Main Timing Chain Top Guide - 13085-JK20A
(1) - Crank Sprocket - 13021-AL51A
Other: More why not
(1) Thermostat - 21200-JK20A
(1) Water pump - B1010-JK20A
Tools:
I have not used this but it was suggested in another gallery gasket thread. You can use a brake piston spreader to remove the front timing cover using the two tab locations on the bottom half of the cover. Gently go back and forth on both sides don't try to break the RTV in one go. Your still have to use the normal pry location on the top of the cover. The linked spreader looks like it might work.
Brake caliper spreader: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZZ25DHN..._t1_B005GLQCKA
If you have the time and space I recommend just taking the whole radiator core support off. You can swing the A/C condenser out of the way and it give you more room to work and a better view.
thanks a bunch, is that all I need to replace those two gaskets and put everything back together? I just want to buy it and get to work. It's easy to get the torque specs on everything. But it's a damn hassle looking for everything that I need in a pdf. I have an advanced mechanical knowledge and I have an almost photographic memory when it comes to taking stuff apart and putting it back together. I just want to get it done that way I don't have to worry about it until I build a fresh block. Is there anything I should look out for? Besides the cover. Like is there anything that's gonna spring out at me if I'm not careful? Thanks again for the reply
thanks a bunch, is that all I need to replace those two gaskets and put everything back together? I just want to buy it and get to work. It's easy to get the torque specs on everything. But it's a damn hassle looking for everything that I need in a pdf. I have an advanced mechanical knowledge and I have an almost photographic memory when it comes to taking stuff apart and putting it back together. I just want to get it done that way I don't have to worry about it until I build a fresh block. Is there anything I should look out for? Besides the cover. Like is there anything that's gonna spring out at me if I'm not careful? Thanks again for the reply
It's everthing I remember. As noted some of those things are optional but I would at least replace the water pump and orings while you are there. Nothing should jump out. Do not invert the cam timing covers! Always keep the internal side facing up. You don't want to try and resemblance the exhaust cam clutch pack. Don't forget the cover bolts in the oil pan. I had to punch the dip stick tube out with a small socket as it was stuck in with dirt and salt. The wiring harness is mostly self explanatory but lable things if you need to. For the most part it falls into place. Crank bolt took a 4-6ft pole I couldn't get it with my 1000ft/lbs impact. If you need to move the camshafts a towel and a chain clamp around the intake VTC works well.
It's everthing I remember. As noted some of those things are optional but I would at least replace the water pump and orings while you are there. Nothing should jump out. Do not invert the cam timing covers! Always keep the internal side facing up. You don't want to try and resemblance the exhaust cam clutch pack. Don't forget the cover bolts in the oil pan. I had to punch the dip stick tube out with a small socket as it was stuck in with dirt and salt. The wiring harness is mostly self explanatory but lable things if you need to. For the most part it falls into place. Crank bolt took a 4-6ft pole I couldn't get it with my 1000ft/lbs impact. If you need to move the camshafts a towel and a chain clamp around the intake VTC works well.
hopefully I won't have to move the cams, but that's a great idea, the timing is pretty much obvious right? Like once I put it on tdc on comp. And loosen the bottom bolt on the main tensioner, take the chain off. If the sprockets move a little, it'll be easy to put back together if I have the chain marks to guide me right? Like the dots and paint? I appreciate the feedback, I hope this can help other people on this forum. One I finish this job I'll try to document it. I know this stuff is advanced as heck. I know it'd save people a good 3-4 grand.
Super easy to put back together. The paint timing marks on the timing chain only line up every 10-15 revolutions or maybe more so don't expect to take the cover off and have the paint marks on the chain line up or if you do line them up and rotate the engine that will be out of line again.
Oil gallery parts list
