What do you hate most about your 350z?
#221
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"Too long" as in the total travel of the clutch is too far, but I also think the clutch engagement point is kind of a mystery. My daily driver souped-up econo box WRX has a shorter and stiffer clutch pedal action and more predictable clutch engagement point than my 300HP sports car. I'd hate to say it, but it almost makes the wrx more fun to drive thant he Z. I can see why so many people buy WRX / STi instead of 350z.
so get under the dash and adjust the clutch pedal to grab at a lower level of press and let go. it is not that hard to do.
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Last edited by Dr. Venture; 02-03-2010 at 07:52 AM.
#222
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Yeah I know about that. There is an entire thread in the Engine / Powertrain section about this. Half the people said they adjusted it and had no problems, the other half said they experienced excess vibration in the shift lever, partial clutch engagement when the pedal is depressed, increased synchro wear, etc. Also many people who praised the adjustment early in the thread later reported that the pedal eventally returned to its original position, which was speculated to be due to the clutch self-adjusting as it wore down.
#223
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Yeah I know about that. There is an entire thread in the Engine / Powertrain section about this. Half the people said they adjusted it and had no problems, the other half said they experienced excess vibration in the shift lever, partial clutch engagement when the pedal is depressed, increased synchro wear, etc. Also many people who praised the adjustment early in the thread later reported that the pedal eventally returned to its original position, which was speculated to be due to the clutch self-adjusting as it wore down.
well there is a right way and a wrong way to know how to adjust it. The avg joe may not be to weary on "how to." It is a trial and error procedure. And if it becomes worse after an adjustment it is usually due to people riding the clutch. Not everyone is Mario Andriette!
proper adjustment should have the clutch grab a tad b4 1/2 way mark of the release. Some people like it to grab right when they let go but thats to fast and some like it to grab way at the top which entails clutch riding. lil bit just b4 1/2 way mark is the ideal placement. In order do accomplish that you will have to trial and error it. You really do not have to drive it. Just put it in gear in place and feel for when the clutch starts to grab.
Last edited by Dr. Venture; 02-03-2010 at 08:33 AM.
#224
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well there is a right way and a wrong way to know how to adjust it. The avg joe may not be to weary on "how to." It is a trial and error procedure. And if it becomes worse after an adjustment it is usually due to people riding the clutch. Not everyone is Mario Andriette!
proper adjustment should have the clutch grab a tad b4 1/2 way mark of the release. Some people like it to grab right when they let go but thats to fast and some like it to grab way at the top which entails clutch riding. lil bit just b4 1/2 way mark is the ideal placement. In order do accomplish that you will have to trial and error it. You really do not have to drive it. Just put it in gear in place and feel for when the clutch starts to grab.
proper adjustment should have the clutch grab a tad b4 1/2 way mark of the release. Some people like it to grab right when they let go but thats to fast and some like it to grab way at the top which entails clutch riding. lil bit just b4 1/2 way mark is the ideal placement. In order do accomplish that you will have to trial and error it. You really do not have to drive it. Just put it in gear in place and feel for when the clutch starts to grab.
I am also looking into the D-Wolf Clutch Kit, which I believe is basically a spacer block that goes on the back side of the clutch pedal to keep it from going all the way to the floor, and a spacer on the other side to keep it from returning to full height. I think it basically eliminates the "free play" of the pedal on both ends of its travel, but doesn't actually change the engagement point of the clutch, i.e. since the push rod is not adjusted there is no change to the clutch action itself. Instead the relative position of clutch engagement versus the resulting range of pedal travel is changed.
Do you have any experience with that?
#225
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Thanks for the input. I know some of the people commenting in that thread had adjusted it too far (i.e. the clutch pedal was lower than the brake pedal) and naturally that will cause some problems.
I am also looking into the D-Wolf Clutch Kit, which I believe is basically a spacer block that goes on the back side of the clutch pedal to keep it from going all the way to the floor, and a spacer on the other side to keep it from returning to full height. I think it basically eliminates the "free play" of the pedal on both ends of its travel, but doesn't actually change the engagement point of the clutch, i.e. since the push rod is not adjusted there is no change to the clutch action itself. Instead the relative position of clutch engagement versus the resulting range of pedal travel is changed.
Do you have any experience with that?
I am also looking into the D-Wolf Clutch Kit, which I believe is basically a spacer block that goes on the back side of the clutch pedal to keep it from going all the way to the floor, and a spacer on the other side to keep it from returning to full height. I think it basically eliminates the "free play" of the pedal on both ends of its travel, but doesn't actually change the engagement point of the clutch, i.e. since the push rod is not adjusted there is no change to the clutch action itself. Instead the relative position of clutch engagement versus the resulting range of pedal travel is changed.
Do you have any experience with that?
I agree with Dr. Venture.
If you do not like the Z’s clutch travel or its engagement point, then use the available adjustment. If you move this outside the manufacturer’s specifications, you are in “new territory.” But, you should be able to set this they way you want without using an aftermarket product.
If you are in the 98% group that wants no change, then leave it as it is.
If you are in the 2% group wanting more or less travel and a different engagement point, use the adjustment (but of course, don’t get too crazy here).
--Spike
#226
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I love the Z and generally am very happy. The clutch is fine, the transmission may be a little notchy but not a big deal. My 5th gear synchros are starting to go, but I'll have that taken care of under warranty before it runs out.
No, the only thing that really bugs me about the Z on a regular basis is that when I park in my driveway, which has a very mild uphill slope, and I open the door partway (can't open all the way or I'll hit my car parked next to me) the indent that should hold the door in that position while I climb out is too weak and the door always wants to close. Not a big deal unless I've got stuff in my hands that I'm getting out of the car, such as my briefcase, a portfolio, etc... It would be nice to be able to get out of the car without having to use one hand to hold the door open in the process.
Likely it is just my advanced years and a bad knee which makes this inconvenient, but it is a constant annoyance.
No, the only thing that really bugs me about the Z on a regular basis is that when I park in my driveway, which has a very mild uphill slope, and I open the door partway (can't open all the way or I'll hit my car parked next to me) the indent that should hold the door in that position while I climb out is too weak and the door always wants to close. Not a big deal unless I've got stuff in my hands that I'm getting out of the car, such as my briefcase, a portfolio, etc... It would be nice to be able to get out of the car without having to use one hand to hold the door open in the process.
Likely it is just my advanced years and a bad knee which makes this inconvenient, but it is a constant annoyance.
#227
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-The fuel door doesn't pop out, so I have to pry it open.
-The engine is too course at high rpms
-The stereo isn't very good.
-You can hear all the pebbles hit the rear wheelwells.
-VW GTI this morning wouldn't let me pass him even though I was going my normal speed and felt the need to speed up when I approached him.
-The engine is too course at high rpms
-The stereo isn't very good.
-You can hear all the pebbles hit the rear wheelwells.
-VW GTI this morning wouldn't let me pass him even though I was going my normal speed and felt the need to speed up when I approached him.
#228
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Drivers seat - switch (or motor) that moves it forward and back failed again.
(yes I tried electric contact cleaner and compressed air)
This is the SECOND time this has happened.![](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/icon20.gif)
Apparently this is a common problem from what I read on the -Z- forums. NISSAN - GET IT FIXED !
(yes I tried electric contact cleaner and compressed air)
This is the SECOND time this has happened.
![](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/icon20.gif)
Apparently this is a common problem from what I read on the -Z- forums. NISSAN - GET IT FIXED !
#232
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I hate that now, since I've done all my dream mods to her, I can't drive it like I want to. I had to get special insurance (must not exceed blah-blah-blah milage in 1yr), my front bumper scrapes EVERYTHING!! ugh...and I am afraid to push the boost. :/ I fail...I want my stock Z back.
Or wait, I could buy another Z and leave it stock, just for DD!! Muhahahahaa.....
Or wait, I could buy another Z and leave it stock, just for DD!! Muhahahahaa.....
#235
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Well with Redline time attacks new 3.5 inch ride height rule , my new hate would be that the cats and Y pipe hang well below the unibody rails. They are the lowest point by far.
#236
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I love the Z and generally am very happy. The clutch is fine, the transmission may be a little notchy but not a big deal. My 5th gear synchros are starting to go, but I'll have that taken care of under warranty before it runs out.
No, the only thing that really bugs me about the Z on a regular basis is that when I park in my driveway, which has a very mild uphill slope, and I open the door partway (can't open all the way or I'll hit my car parked next to me) the indent that should hold the door in that position while I climb out is too weak and the door always wants to close. Not a big deal unless I've got stuff in my hands that I'm getting out of the car, such as my briefcase, a portfolio, etc... It would be nice to be able to get out of the car without having to use one hand to hold the door open in the process.
Likely it is just my advanced years and a bad knee which makes this inconvenient, but it is a constant annoyance.
No, the only thing that really bugs me about the Z on a regular basis is that when I park in my driveway, which has a very mild uphill slope, and I open the door partway (can't open all the way or I'll hit my car parked next to me) the indent that should hold the door in that position while I climb out is too weak and the door always wants to close. Not a big deal unless I've got stuff in my hands that I'm getting out of the car, such as my briefcase, a portfolio, etc... It would be nice to be able to get out of the car without having to use one hand to hold the door open in the process.
Likely it is just my advanced years and a bad knee which makes this inconvenient, but it is a constant annoyance.
If you look at the pivoting link between the door hinges you can see the two detent indents in the link rod. I think what he did is reshape the indents and slightly increase the detent pressure. My doors hold in the partially open position much more positively now, although it takes a little more assertive push to shut them. All in all a great trade off.
#237
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The thing I hate most about my 03 track is the passenger seat belt. It keeps rattling if I don't put it back into this little slot/clop thing to hold it. I think Nissan fix this with their newer models. Maybe I shouldn't give people rides anymore so I won't have to keep clipping it back. I think I might just take out the seat belts and tell people I don't have seatbelts so I can't give them a ride. Haha.