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If you already haven't done so, get a 3.7 or 3.9 lsd rear diff. Will make more of a difference in drive feel and acceleration than all of your mods combined.
noted, I plan on doing this with the AT to MT transmission. But if I can do it now with an AT, why not.
3.9 has a higher gear then 3.7 if I remember? I would have quicker acceleration on 3.7 but at what top speed do you reckon?
Thanks Sparco, since this low number came out, I just want to make some power at a budget for now.
noted, I plan on doing this with the AT to MT transmission. But if I can do it now with an AT, why not.
3.9 has a higher gear then 3.7 if I remember? I would have quicker acceleration on 3.7 but at what top speed do you reckon?
Thanks Sparco, since this low number came out, I just want to make some power at a budget for now.
Semantically speaking, a 3.90 is a LOWER (or "shorter") gear ratio. (Numerically lower is higher gear ratio or "taller".) Acceleration is always quicker with a lower gear, e.g. 3.9 vs 3.7 vs 3.54 (stock) AT THE EXPENSE of top speed. You'll see the expression "gear limited top end" frequently. Just means that the you'll get to the motor top end at a lower speed up top with a lower final drive ratio.
It's all so counterintuitive that even I - with some 40+ years of monkeying around with gearing as an acceleration "cheater" trick - have to stop and think, "Wait, shorter or taller?" The only way I remember is through a mnemonic..... "Shorter...oh right, have to shift in a shorter amount of time." . Then again, I usually just skip using "longer and shorter" to describe gearing. Easier is to keep in mind the higher the number, the faster you'll arrive at top speed. Laff......
The key thing to keep in mind in gearing changes is to build to two things:
1. Acceleration or top end? Once decided...
2. ...Do the engine/trans math to figure out exactly what gear you need.
EDIT: Ooops, didn't see ZeeThreeThree's link. Yep, good info!!
Changed my oil and did a Heartland engine flush in between. I'm not sure if the flush made a difference but the it came out dirtier than it was going in.
Changed my oil and did a Heartland engine flush in between. I'm not sure if the flush made a difference but the it came out dirtier than it was going in.
Ah so they are real vertex. Theres some ebay seller with poly vertex sides and was curious to see if anyone used em with some fitment feedback. Have a Nismo V2 im putting on as well, so i've been torn on side skirt choices. Thanks!
- Got the Innovate MTX-L A/F gauge all ready to go. Modded the a-pillar trim and got the wires run but then decided I want to go with the silver bezel ring and took the thing apart - Only to realize the plastic rivets AutoMeter gives you are one-use only so now I'm waiting and $16 worth of plastic to complete the thing
- Got the OEM exhaust removed including the cats. It was actually super easy
- Got the Berk RTP's installed and figured out where I'm going to route to A/F sensor cable
- Got the Invidia Gemini dual exhaust installed. Fitment is really good
After a 5 1/2 month sleep, I collected my beautiful "05 from a friends barn. All's OK. Started-up like I had it out yesterday. Washed & washed/detailed. Happy Spring All !
After a 5 1/2 month sleep, I collected my beautiful "05 from a friends barn. All's OK. Started-up like I had it out yesterday. Washed & washed/detailed. Happy Spring All !
I have not verified the results. I debated on getting it checked. But for what I'm doing, this will get it close enough. It is very well built and the fit and finish are great. The bubble is in the exact same spot on both sides and I'm using the SPL arms with the preset shims. So its gotta be pretty close.
-Installed Z1Motorsports Aluminum Undertray with service panel (if you've worked on cars for years its simple install like it was for me, but some DIYers this might be a confusing install since theres no steps on where to use the long bolts and the 4 washers.)
-Dropped the diff and installed the whiteline bushing kit (the rear diff bushing was out and in within 30 minutes prob less, had more trouble with one of the ears. Did not use a press for anythingb here)
-Redline GL4 and GL5 fluids for the trans and diff respectively with new crush washers for all drain/fill bolts
-Switched up to 10w-40 Castrol Syn Blend High Mileage
-Also added Z1 Motorsports magnetic oil drain bolt
-Adjusted some toe
-Determined my front ball joints have had ripped boots for sometime and one may be bad. Will likely order the revised Mevotech Supreme ones for the 05-08 with the added zerk fitting
-Planning to do the compression rod bushing and potentially LCA bushings after inspection. May do SPL for comp rod and whiteline for LCA, or whiteline for all of em
-Also determined suspension will have to be done as the OEM shocks are done (152k miles 2007)
-Added a new OEM battery terminal
Things left to do:
-Somehow find bolts for the Nismo V2 carbon canards (stonecarbon was the ebay seller) as they do not have specifics on the thread pitch, though I believe it was #10-24 which is difficult to find hex bolts for. Might consider tapping a larger hole or maybe just search harder. Worst case is phillips head with washer but do not want to use phillips head behind the bumper where they could rust
-Drop off canards and KBD Nismo V2 bumper for paint and install
-Drop off Carbon Top Secret rear diffuser to my friend's body shop for trimming to fit my AAM Competition TI Single exit exhaust and reinforce the diffuser after, then install
-Install the OEM Euro Rear Fog, wire to parking light for trigger. Change passenger reverse light to LED
-Add the APR Carbon Fiber rad cooling plate
-Install H&R Spacers and RPF1s
-Drive the hell out of the car
Was looking for somewhere to track my backlog so using this thread lol.
It's been a long winter but my car is ready for driving season. The Z was starting to feel a little sloppy after 10+ years so I focused my time getting it just "feel good" on the road. I focused on the drive train, suspension, brakes, and wheels and tires. Also got my bike ready to ride the weekend.
Things that killed my wallet:
-Kaaz LSD
-JWT Clutch + Flywheel
-CMAK CSC Removal
-Hubs all around
-Rotors all around
-Pads all around
-Whiteline suspension bushings
-New wheels and tires
