Torque Solution is largely known for copying everyone else and undercutting them as well.
I wouldn't be surprised if the Z1 is a private label version directly from Torque Solution - or PLM.

 

Haven't done research on their studs/spacers. Will keep an eye out for that .

Had no idea torque solutions had a diff brace even... Iv had their shifter since it came out n been happy with it. No idea if that was a copy itself tho.

 

IDK who came first, but given what I know about Z1 I wouldn't be surprised the the OG is TS.

 

I’ve been reading the good reviews about the z1 door stop rebuilt kit went ahead and bought it.
Installed this afternoon and it’s pretty good. No more door shutting on its own is really nice. Takes longer to get the new rubber and plastic parts in the housing than to take the door panel off.

 

Parts from the previous posts installed. Installed as much as I could.

I am looking for Swift springs 16kg for the rears now and may look into switching my front HKS 14kg 8” for Swifts version 7” possibly to make room for the Stance cups. I didn’t have enough to threading to fasten everything up.






I was able to drive a block and I am insanely happy, the added stiffness throughout the car feels extremely good and it makes lots of noises so I’m not sure if installation error or just the nature of increased ridgity.

My water pump just went out… so it’s overheats. Now at 195K miles. I suppose I’ll do the gallery gaskets job as well… I don’t think I have what it takes to do the rear main seal. Kinda lazy.

 

As soon as I did coils + arms on my Z it started making weird noises.
I believe the aluminum rear subframe really amplifies any sounds a steel subframe may dampen. This is also increased if you torque the suspension bolts beyond their recommend torque spec, in my experience.
Car still makes weird noises. Still bothers me.

 

the front rear control bushings look off. see the red, how do other cars like mine with similar setups look?

but this is with the 350z hr on a jack stand from rear.

 

THE only bushing you should have there is Whiteline, preferably SPL tho. ES is not a good bushing in that location.

 

In that Compression Arm or Radius Arm, I have White line bushings. I think with ES is that they are oversized bushings and haven’t heard the best things about them. It looks off, but does it drive off?

Meanwhile… I took it upon myself to replace the water pump on my 195K mile engine. Took ages to get to this point. Already replaced the thermostat, and water pump, and the lower gallery gasket and the timing is set at top dead center with marking noted for insurance but I need help.

The upper left Philip screw is behind the cam shaft, and I can’t get to it even with rotating the cam shaft. It’s the last one and it’s starting to unfortunately nearly round out.

Any suggestions? What did you guys do when you did your gallery gasket job? Take off the cam shaft? How so?




Bottom gallery gasket at 195K miles.

 

How do you know your water pump went out besides your car overheating? Was there a leak at the weep hole?

 

For the philips screw, I recommend one of those impact drivers. I bought one for brake rotors after getting super frustrated with those countersunk philips screws stripping out. Impact drivers also work wonders for odd jobs like this. I think that's your best option at this point since it's already started to strip out. If you started fresh, I would've used a light duty cordless impact with the correct philips bit (looks like #2, but could be some Japanese spec which are slightly different). Worst case scenario, you may need to drill it out, but I think you have a solid chance of cracking it with an impact driver.

Cheers!
-Icer

 

give it a good smack with a hammer. Sometimes that will help but I agree with Icer. Best bet now would be to use and impact driver with the correct bit.

Question though. After breaking it loose how would that screw come out if that sprocket is in the way? At least from the picture it seems like

 

@bre240z Fluctuating coolant temperatures, and leaks from the weep hole. It came as droplets and moved to puddle overnight with visible coolant leak.

Main thing was the water pump, upon removal, it had damaged o-ring.

Figured I’d do gallery gaskets as well. Albeit some trouble on the top gasket. Haven’t worked on it since due to work schedule til Friday morning.


@icer5160 Copy; I’ll send it with the impact driver. I’ll try to hammer in the drive bits and try to remove it with an impact driver applying inward pressure on Friday.

 

Do you have room enough to use an impact screwdriver? Like this ?

Also, I would try and lightly impact it tighter, first (to try and help break the threads free) and then go for the loosen.

Good luck!

 

It's going to be tight with the cam gear in place. But I think it can be done, most impact driver sets have long bits (about 2-3inch), which might just give enough length to clear the cam gear. If the gear creates to much interference (hard to tell with the photo angle, parallax might be playing a part), meaning he can't get the bit straight on, then the only option is to remove the main timing chain and and pull the gear. I think that would take less effort/time vs. stripping it out and moving to drill it out.
Cheers!
-Icer

 

This popped up at the place I bought my ats-v, and current c7. Phil on here bought his c7 z06 there. You can do a ppi at 21st century muscle cars...which is owned by one of the lingenfelter kids

https://hotrides.com/2007-chevrolet-...-75006/7387126

 

today I reinstalled my OEM strut tower bar. Took the car on a bit of a hot run.. back road blast at bout 55-60. omg the car was vibrating soo bad. come to find out the reason is the bar was resting on the intake plenum passenger side. I am maxed out on washers, if I add one or two more then the hood will not close. stacks of 4 washer all the way around. took tension off of it to move it around then set it properly. after all that madness, I took it back off. lol

 

why is it hitting to begin with?

 

Maybe because. The plenum is soo tall ?!?

 

What plenum setup are you running again? I have the MREV2 + 5/16 spacer. Using the washers that were included, I have no clearance issues.
Cheers!
-Icer