Won’t start intermittently
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Hi guys,
Long time Z lover. Had mine almost 17 years. Now at 54k miles my car intermittently won’t start. It intermittently won’t even crank. The battery is fine. All maintenance up to date. Had a similar issue about 3 years and 6k miles ago and replaced both crank sensors - it’s been perfect since then. Scanned with an OBD app and got pending code P000A which is cam shaft sensor bank 1. Seems strange that sensor would go bad so quickly ? Could this be another issue such as the crank position sensor?
Would love your input.
Thanks,
NzZ
Long time Z lover. Had mine almost 17 years. Now at 54k miles my car intermittently won’t start. It intermittently won’t even crank. The battery is fine. All maintenance up to date. Had a similar issue about 3 years and 6k miles ago and replaced both crank sensors - it’s been perfect since then. Scanned with an OBD app and got pending code P000A which is cam shaft sensor bank 1. Seems strange that sensor would go bad so quickly ? Could this be another issue such as the crank position sensor?
Would love your input.
Thanks,
NzZ
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P000A has quite a bit more to it. Possibilities include:
Cam position sensor replacement or
Cam position sensor replacement or
- N205 valve replacement.
- Clearing of the oil pump pickup tube filter and other oil passages.
- Wiring/connector replacement to or from the camshaft adjustment valve.
- Oil pump replacement.
- VCT phaser replacement.
- Retiming of the engine.
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I'd also be concerned about the low-tech stuff. IF you've had the battery load - tested the next obvious thing to look at is 17 year old battery cables. Oxidation can run up a cable unseen under the vinyl and cause problems . If you haven't already, I'd be inclined to change them out just for peace of mind.
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dkmura (05-09-2020)
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Thanks for the tips guys. Would these other issues also cause intermittent problems? I ask bc the symptoms seem identical to the cam position sensor which I replaced with an OEM Nissan part (both banks). Just trying to troubleshoot as we know the dealer will probably want $1500 to replace a bunch of parts that aren’t related - they wanted over $750 to do the CPS a few years ago. Cost me $110 and took under half an hour lol.
NzZ
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If the cables were bad wouldn’t the car not start at all? When I turn the key to accessory mode the AC and radio turn on. But when I twist the key to start the engine there’s no cranking. Then one in maybe ten attempts it will start. Tried again today and got P000A and P0006 codes. May replace both cam sensors again but it seems strange they would go bad so quickly.
Thanks again for your input.
NzZ
Thanks again for your input.
NzZ
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Let me put it like this-
Compare the necessary amperage draw of your radio and starter.
My statement was the "possibility" of corosion, exactly the symptoms you describe. May I suggest -
Use another key if possible.
With a helper disconnect the cable from the starter and measure voltage when key is turned to "start". (Do not handle the wiring during this).
Since you have codes I would erase them. If that doesn't work, replace the parts.
Gl!
Compare the necessary amperage draw of your radio and starter.
My statement was the "possibility" of corosion, exactly the symptoms you describe. May I suggest -
Use another key if possible.
With a helper disconnect the cable from the starter and measure voltage when key is turned to "start". (Do not handle the wiring during this).
Since you have codes I would erase them. If that doesn't work, replace the parts.
Gl!
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The big clue, when we cranked the car, the scan tool (granted it was a snap solus) was that the scanner was going dead after the engine was cranked (ie check fuses and check battery connection). The issue was that the positive side terminal was not 100% tight/snuged-on...it had 10ft-lbs of torque on it, where it needed 35.
The lesson I learned was even though the cables appear to be fine, double check them and replace them if they are questionable.
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jhc (05-11-2020)
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