New NASA Class for 2012: Spec Z
I was running Hoosier R6 before, now BFG R1... and I can lock them up if they are not hot...so yes that is too much pad for less sticky tires...especially cold tires. I have a track model with OEM Brembo with Centric Premium rotors...
Does that answer the question completely?
Does that answer the question completely?
Last edited by laze1; Sep 11, 2012 at 05:10 PM.
BTW; the Carbotech pads are the best I have EVER used...with a wide range of performance. When I ran TT in a 2006 Grand Touring Z with Toyo RA1s, I ran the XP10 on the track and the street...great pads...they work cold and hot and don't eat into your cars wheels or paint...
But, in racing conditions, 30-40 mins of WFO racing with constant threshold braking...the XP10 or XP12 will still lock up a cold R-compound tire....just sayin"
But, in racing conditions, 30-40 mins of WFO racing with constant threshold braking...the XP10 or XP12 will still lock up a cold R-compound tire....just sayin"
Last edited by laze1; Sep 11, 2012 at 05:58 PM.
Just unplug or pull ABS Fuse makes brake bias changes heavily to the rear. I tried this on the track and it wasnt fun.
I have seen professional Race prep Z changed out the whole ABS system to a Bosch aftermarket system, w/ custom programming, fabrication, it costs over $10k.
The cheapest way I guess is to remove the ABS system and install a adjustable brake bias valve. I think I would rather flat spot the tires than crashing into the wall.
I have seen professional Race prep Z changed out the whole ABS system to a Bosch aftermarket system, w/ custom programming, fabrication, it costs over $10k.
The cheapest way I guess is to remove the ABS system and install a adjustable brake bias valve. I think I would rather flat spot the tires than crashing into the wall.
Ik it could also have to do with the tire height stagger some of us are running. The computer looks for a faster moving front tire, when you run equal height tires, it can throw ABS for a big loop and cause the problems we are all experiancing.
BTW; the Carbotech pads are the best I have EVER used...with a wide range of performance. When I ran TT in a 2006 Grand Touring Z with Toyo RA1s, I ran the XP10 on the track and the street...great pads...they work cold and hot and don't eat into your cars wheels or paint...
But, in racing conditions, 30-40 mins of WFO racing with constant threshold braking...the XP10 or XP12 will still lock up a cold R-compound tire....just sayin"
But, in racing conditions, 30-40 mins of WFO racing with constant threshold braking...the XP10 or XP12 will still lock up a cold R-compound tire....just sayin"
I have a BUNCH of "not good for a 45 min Race" pads...I will send them to you...PM me you shipping address...
Did a test and tune this weekend in the SpecZ at Laguna Seca, and experienced my first bearing failure. I think the fracture pattern is unique - has anyone had one fail like this before?
Also - pros/cons to 1.25 vs 1.5 thread pitch wheel studs? I know "we have to run" the 50 or 60mm NISMO studs (with an unknown tensile strength) over the ARPs, but I'm doing some homework for my buddy, who just does HPDEs and sheared the OEM studs at T6 at Laguna yesterday, and lost a wheel.
Also - pros/cons to 1.25 vs 1.5 thread pitch wheel studs? I know "we have to run" the 50 or 60mm NISMO studs (with an unknown tensile strength) over the ARPs, but I'm doing some homework for my buddy, who just does HPDEs and sheared the OEM studs at T6 at Laguna yesterday, and lost a wheel.
Scott, that looks like the photo in the Mid-Ohio post.. https://my350z.com/forum/9875929-post63.html
Scott, that looks like the photo in the Mid-Ohio post.. https://my350z.com/forum/9875929-post63.html
