New NASA Class for 2012: Spec Z
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 147
Likes: 0
From: D.C.
Did a test and tune this weekend in the SpecZ at Laguna Seca, and experienced my first bearing failure. I think the fracture pattern is unique - has anyone had one fail like this before?
Also - pros/cons to 1.25 vs 1.5 thread pitch wheel studs? I know "we have to run" the 50 or 60mm NISMO studs (with an unknown tensile strength) over the ARPs, but I'm doing some homework for my buddy, who just does HPDEs and sheared the OEM studs at T6 at Laguna yesterday, and lost a wheel.
Also - pros/cons to 1.25 vs 1.5 thread pitch wheel studs? I know "we have to run" the 50 or 60mm NISMO studs (with an unknown tensile strength) over the ARPs, but I'm doing some homework for my buddy, who just does HPDEs and sheared the OEM studs at T6 at Laguna yesterday, and lost a wheel.
I am going to take one stud of each - OEM, NISMO, and ARP, and do a metallurgy study on them. I will be able to determine the composition of each and reverse engineer what the properties of each one. I have read that the ARP have a tensile strength of 190ksi, so the alloy I determine should match that in the literature. We can settle the OEM vs NISMO once and for all with good ole' science. It'll take me a few weeks, but I'll work it in to my work load. The surface finish IS something to consider, so I'll try to quantitatively analyze that as well.
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 8,623
Likes: 1,392
From: Aurora, Colorado
Sorry to step in again, but aftermarket studs are legal in Spec Z. After using ARP studs in T2 racing since 2008 and never having any problems with them, there's no reason to change. Used them in Spec Z this year and plan to remain with them in the future since 16.1(d) allows them. There may be some confusion due to the "recommended" tag on the NISMO studs, but Spec Z does not mandate their use exclusively.
Last edited by dkmura; Sep 19, 2012 at 08:13 PM.
Sorry to step in again, but aftermarket studs are legal in Spec Z. After using ARP studs in T2 racing since 2008 and never having any problems with them, there's no reason to change. Used them in Spec Z this year and plan to remain with them in the future since 16.1(d) allows them. There may be some confusion due to the "recommended" tag on the NISMO studs, but Spec Z does not mandate their use exclusively.
Hey Guys,
I drove the orange Z noted in an earlier post. That was Great racing by the surviving Zs at the championship race. I watched it online while I wandered around the track in my truck. I could see this class getting to be competitive like Spec miata, but without as much drafting affect so its purely driver against driver
I'm going to take some time off from racing the Z. While it's still fresh in my mind, I wanted to share my thoughts to improve the car and the class, from a now unbiased source.
First, the elephant in the room. I posted my findings for my brake failure here: https://my350z.com/forum/autocross-r...o-crash-2.html If your ABS light turns on, park the car and fix it. Don't wait for the next session or next race. If you don't like that plan, For class rules you could mandate disabling the ABS (and allow a proportioning valve), or you could spec an alternate aftermarket system. Don't hold your breath for a software fix since it isn't even Nissan's code and they are unlikely to admit there is an issue. We all ignored Jeff's terrible crash at mid-ohio as an anomoly. I don't think it was.
Suspension - I don't think people should be afraid to race with the stock suspension if they can't commit the $4k for coilovers. I've raced in stock trim vs T2 springs. It really isn't much disadvantage, especially with the Camber forgiving BFGs.
Studs - I agree with above. Nissan used to have good studs. The new mfg is not good. I've broken 5 in one year. Get ARP.
Brake fade - Personally, after running large brake ducts from the NISMO bumper side vents pulling direct frontal pressure (moved from NACA under car vents) and ducted directly to the inside opening of the back of the rotor, and running Carbotech pads, My issues were gone and I would not see any fade through the entire race even at notoriously bad tracks. I will admit I've always been an early braker so some of you more aggressive brakers may still find fade. Still, it is liveable. Rebuild your calipers fairly often. The dust covers will burn. That doesn't matter. Once you are driving hard, rebuild your rotors after a few race weekends. stretch and inspect the orings. If they show cracks, you may need to rebuild them in shorter intervals. If they are perfect, try longer intervals. Once I fixed the ducting on my car, my interval was 4 to 6 weekends, and I never found a brittle oring again.
Hubs - With good brake ducting properly ported to the hub (center of rotor), they actually last a really long time
Gas tank - Allow internal modifications. For right handed tracks the fuel goes to the left saddle and you get fuel starvation with more than 1/2 tank. If you ever want to run an enduro you're screwed with the stock set-up regardless of the track configuration. I recommend a pump in the bottom of the left saddle pumping fuel directly into the main pump bucket. This is no real advantage in sprint races, but it makes the car better. It could allow some of you to get closer to minimum weight though (5 less gallons = 40 lbs)
Wheels - spec minimum weight OR one peice only, not both. I recommend minimum weight.
Alignment - spec a cheap and simple adjustable upper control arm, spec a larger accentric bolt for each rear adjuster, and spec 2.5 degrees max camber. This fixes the cars that aren't quite straight and square without giving a significant advantage to those that buy the arms.
Diff - Ugh. Allow either NISMO or Wavetrac. I know Nissan made a deal with Wavetrac but honestly Wavetrac did not hold up their end of the deal. I think the wavetrac has potential to be slightly faster, but if you need to add a cooler, it is not best for those cost conscious folks.
Clutch master- They go bad, but they are very easy to replace. The pedal will stay on the floor. you can pull it back up with your toe and pump it to get you through the race (s). Keep a spare. spec a braided line and add heat sheilding to the hose by the clutch to reduce the heat.
Back bumper. I beleive the biggest benefit to the Nismo package is the diffuser in the rear bumper. Those bumpers are pricey. The class should allow cutting the lower section of a non-nismo rear bumper or screwing it to the bottom of the aluminum bumper to eliminate the natural parachute.
Interior - the rules are grey. Allow removal of ALL plastic parts of the interior except the dash. It's a fire hazard.
BYpass the AC. That's weight in the front which is in the wrong place.
Ballast - Allow weight to be put anywhere by any "safe" means. That way people don't have to get creative getting weight toward the back putting "stock" parts back. I used to carry a 75lb stock muffler until the brackets broke. It would have been better to bolt lead to the floor in the back. I don't get the purpose of telling people where they allowed to mount it.
That's all I can think of. Enjoy the class folks. The car is fast, durable, forgiving, a blast to drive, and low maintenance. Feel free to email me as I'm always happy to share advice. Once I'm well enough to get the car out of the trailer I'll be posting all the surviving bits and spares in the for sale section cheap as dirt within the next month or two. That will include the coil-overs and wavetrack to get one of you budget minded newbies going!
Cheers and good luck!
Bill Steinhoff Car #L8 (upsidedown 87)
update Dec 2012
I have 2 things to add:
1) Another option for the ABS concern is to put a switch to the ABS ground and run the idiot light power to a brighter warning light. try to set up your pads to get decent bias with the ABS turned off. You should do that anyway. then, run the ABS as normal. If the light turns on during a race, flip the ABS switch off for the rest of the race. I really think this is a good fix.
2) Remove the airbags but Don't remove any of the airbag sensors or controller. Word on the street is that the controller is also a crash recorder, and the sensors tell it when to record.
I hope that helps!
-Bill
I drove the orange Z noted in an earlier post. That was Great racing by the surviving Zs at the championship race. I watched it online while I wandered around the track in my truck. I could see this class getting to be competitive like Spec miata, but without as much drafting affect so its purely driver against driver
I'm going to take some time off from racing the Z. While it's still fresh in my mind, I wanted to share my thoughts to improve the car and the class, from a now unbiased source.
First, the elephant in the room. I posted my findings for my brake failure here: https://my350z.com/forum/autocross-r...o-crash-2.html If your ABS light turns on, park the car and fix it. Don't wait for the next session or next race. If you don't like that plan, For class rules you could mandate disabling the ABS (and allow a proportioning valve), or you could spec an alternate aftermarket system. Don't hold your breath for a software fix since it isn't even Nissan's code and they are unlikely to admit there is an issue. We all ignored Jeff's terrible crash at mid-ohio as an anomoly. I don't think it was.
Suspension - I don't think people should be afraid to race with the stock suspension if they can't commit the $4k for coilovers. I've raced in stock trim vs T2 springs. It really isn't much disadvantage, especially with the Camber forgiving BFGs.
Studs - I agree with above. Nissan used to have good studs. The new mfg is not good. I've broken 5 in one year. Get ARP.
Brake fade - Personally, after running large brake ducts from the NISMO bumper side vents pulling direct frontal pressure (moved from NACA under car vents) and ducted directly to the inside opening of the back of the rotor, and running Carbotech pads, My issues were gone and I would not see any fade through the entire race even at notoriously bad tracks. I will admit I've always been an early braker so some of you more aggressive brakers may still find fade. Still, it is liveable. Rebuild your calipers fairly often. The dust covers will burn. That doesn't matter. Once you are driving hard, rebuild your rotors after a few race weekends. stretch and inspect the orings. If they show cracks, you may need to rebuild them in shorter intervals. If they are perfect, try longer intervals. Once I fixed the ducting on my car, my interval was 4 to 6 weekends, and I never found a brittle oring again.
Hubs - With good brake ducting properly ported to the hub (center of rotor), they actually last a really long time
Gas tank - Allow internal modifications. For right handed tracks the fuel goes to the left saddle and you get fuel starvation with more than 1/2 tank. If you ever want to run an enduro you're screwed with the stock set-up regardless of the track configuration. I recommend a pump in the bottom of the left saddle pumping fuel directly into the main pump bucket. This is no real advantage in sprint races, but it makes the car better. It could allow some of you to get closer to minimum weight though (5 less gallons = 40 lbs)
Wheels - spec minimum weight OR one peice only, not both. I recommend minimum weight.
Alignment - spec a cheap and simple adjustable upper control arm, spec a larger accentric bolt for each rear adjuster, and spec 2.5 degrees max camber. This fixes the cars that aren't quite straight and square without giving a significant advantage to those that buy the arms.
Diff - Ugh. Allow either NISMO or Wavetrac. I know Nissan made a deal with Wavetrac but honestly Wavetrac did not hold up their end of the deal. I think the wavetrac has potential to be slightly faster, but if you need to add a cooler, it is not best for those cost conscious folks.
Clutch master- They go bad, but they are very easy to replace. The pedal will stay on the floor. you can pull it back up with your toe and pump it to get you through the race (s). Keep a spare. spec a braided line and add heat sheilding to the hose by the clutch to reduce the heat.
Back bumper. I beleive the biggest benefit to the Nismo package is the diffuser in the rear bumper. Those bumpers are pricey. The class should allow cutting the lower section of a non-nismo rear bumper or screwing it to the bottom of the aluminum bumper to eliminate the natural parachute.
Interior - the rules are grey. Allow removal of ALL plastic parts of the interior except the dash. It's a fire hazard.
BYpass the AC. That's weight in the front which is in the wrong place.
Ballast - Allow weight to be put anywhere by any "safe" means. That way people don't have to get creative getting weight toward the back putting "stock" parts back. I used to carry a 75lb stock muffler until the brackets broke. It would have been better to bolt lead to the floor in the back. I don't get the purpose of telling people where they allowed to mount it.
That's all I can think of. Enjoy the class folks. The car is fast, durable, forgiving, a blast to drive, and low maintenance. Feel free to email me as I'm always happy to share advice. Once I'm well enough to get the car out of the trailer I'll be posting all the surviving bits and spares in the for sale section cheap as dirt within the next month or two. That will include the coil-overs and wavetrack to get one of you budget minded newbies going!
Cheers and good luck!
Bill Steinhoff Car #L8 (upsidedown 87)
update Dec 2012
I have 2 things to add:
1) Another option for the ABS concern is to put a switch to the ABS ground and run the idiot light power to a brighter warning light. try to set up your pads to get decent bias with the ABS turned off. You should do that anyway. then, run the ABS as normal. If the light turns on during a race, flip the ABS switch off for the rest of the race. I really think this is a good fix.
2) Remove the airbags but Don't remove any of the airbag sensors or controller. Word on the street is that the controller is also a crash recorder, and the sensors tell it when to record.
I hope that helps!
-Bill
Last edited by billstein87; Dec 22, 2012 at 01:17 PM.
Once I'm well enough to get the car out of the trailer I'll be posting all the surviving bits and spares in the for sale section cheap as dirt within the next month or two. That will include the coil-overs and wavetrack to get one of you budget minded newbies going!
Cheers and good luck!
Bill Steinhoff Car #L8 (upsidedown 87)
Amen! :d
Get well soon and prosper!!
Get well soon and prosper!!
hey guys,
i drove the orange z noted in an earlier post. That was great racing by the surviving zs at the championship race. I watched it online while i wandered around the track in my truck. I could see this class getting to be competitive like spec miata, but without as much drafting affect so its purely driver against driver
i'm going to take some time off from racing the z. While it's still fresh in my mind, i wanted to share my thoughts to improve the car and the class, from a now unbiased source.
First, the elephant in the room. I posted my findings for my brake failure here: https://my350z.com/forum/autocross-r...o-crash-2.html if your abs light turns on, park the car and fix it. Don't wait for the next session or next race. If you don't like that plan, for class rules you could mandate disabling the abs (and allow a proportioning valve), or you could spec an alternate aftermarket system. Don't hold your breath for a software fix since it isn't even nissan's code and they are unlikely to admit there is an issue. We all ignored jeff's terrible crash at mid-ohio as an anomoly. I don't think it was.
Suspension - i don't think people should be afraid to race with the stock suspension if they can't commit the $4k for coilovers. I've raced in stock trim vs t2 springs. It really isn't much disadvantage, especially with the camber forgiving bfgs.
Studs - i agree with above. Nissan used to have good studs. The new mfg is not good. I've broken 5 in one year. Get arp.
Brake fade - personally, after running large brake ducts from the nismo bumper side vents pulling direct frontal pressure (moved from naca under car vents) and ducted directly to the inside opening of the back of the rotor, and running carbotech pads, my issues were gone and i would not see any fade through the entire race even at notoriously bad tracks. I will admit i've always been an early braker so some of you more aggressive brakers may still find fade. Still, it is liveable. Rebuild your calipers fairly often. The dust covers will burn. That doesn't matter. Once you are driving hard, rebuild your rotors after a few race weekends. Stretch and inspect the orings. If they show cracks, you may need to rebuild them in shorter intervals. If they are perfect, try longer intervals. Once i fixed the ducting on my car, my interval was 4 to 6 weekends, and i never found a brittle oring again.
Hubs - with good brake ducting properly ported to the hub (center of rotor), they actually last a really long time
gas tank - allow internal modifications. For right handed tracks the fuel goes to the left saddle and you get fuel starvation with more than 1/2 tank. If you ever want to run an enduro you're screwed with the stock set-up regardless of the track configuration. I recommend a pump in the bottom of the left saddle pumping fuel directly into the main pump bucket. This is no real advantage in sprint races, but it makes the car better. It could allow some of you to get closer to minimum weight though (5 less gallons = 40 lbs)
wheels - spec minimum weight or one peice only, not both. I recommend minimum weight.
Alignment - spec a cheap and simple adjustable upper control arm, spec a larger accentric bolt for each rear adjuster, and spec 2.5 degrees max camber. This fixes the cars that aren't quite straight and square without giving a significant advantage to those that buy the arms.
Diff - ugh. Allow either nismo or wavetrac. I know nissan made a deal with wavetrac but honestly wavetrac did not hold up their end of the deal. I think the wavetrac has potential to be slightly faster, but if you need to add a cooler, it is not best for those cost conscious folks.
Clutch master- they go bad, but they are very easy to replace. The pedal will stay on the floor. You can pull it back up with your toe and pump it to get you through the race (s). Keep a spare. Spec a braided line and add heat sheilding to the hose by the clutch to reduce the heat.
Back bumper. I beleive the biggest benefit to the nismo package is the diffuser in the rear bumper. Those bumpers are pricey. The class should allow cutting the lower section of a non-nismo rear bumper or screwing it to the bottom of the aluminum bumper to eliminate the natural parachute.
Interior - the rules are grey. Allow removal of all plastic parts of the interior except the dash. It's a fire hazard.
Bypass the ac. That's weight in the front which is in the wrong place.
Ballast - allow weight to be put anywhere by any "safe" means. That way people don't have to get creative getting weight toward the back putting "stock" parts back. I used to carry a 75lb stock muffler until the brackets broke. It would have been better to bolt lead to the floor in the back. I don't get the purpose of telling people where they allowed to mount it.
That's all i can think of. Enjoy the class folks. The car is fast, durable, forgiving, a blast to drive, and low maintenance. Feel free to email me as i'm always happy to share advice. Once i'm well enough to get the car out of the trailer i'll be posting all the surviving bits and spares in the for sale section cheap as dirt within the next month or two. That will include the coil-overs and wavetrack to get one of you budget minded newbies going!
Cheers and good luck!
Bill steinhoff car #l8 (upsidedown 87)
i drove the orange z noted in an earlier post. That was great racing by the surviving zs at the championship race. I watched it online while i wandered around the track in my truck. I could see this class getting to be competitive like spec miata, but without as much drafting affect so its purely driver against driver
i'm going to take some time off from racing the z. While it's still fresh in my mind, i wanted to share my thoughts to improve the car and the class, from a now unbiased source.
First, the elephant in the room. I posted my findings for my brake failure here: https://my350z.com/forum/autocross-r...o-crash-2.html if your abs light turns on, park the car and fix it. Don't wait for the next session or next race. If you don't like that plan, for class rules you could mandate disabling the abs (and allow a proportioning valve), or you could spec an alternate aftermarket system. Don't hold your breath for a software fix since it isn't even nissan's code and they are unlikely to admit there is an issue. We all ignored jeff's terrible crash at mid-ohio as an anomoly. I don't think it was.
Suspension - i don't think people should be afraid to race with the stock suspension if they can't commit the $4k for coilovers. I've raced in stock trim vs t2 springs. It really isn't much disadvantage, especially with the camber forgiving bfgs.
Studs - i agree with above. Nissan used to have good studs. The new mfg is not good. I've broken 5 in one year. Get arp.
Brake fade - personally, after running large brake ducts from the nismo bumper side vents pulling direct frontal pressure (moved from naca under car vents) and ducted directly to the inside opening of the back of the rotor, and running carbotech pads, my issues were gone and i would not see any fade through the entire race even at notoriously bad tracks. I will admit i've always been an early braker so some of you more aggressive brakers may still find fade. Still, it is liveable. Rebuild your calipers fairly often. The dust covers will burn. That doesn't matter. Once you are driving hard, rebuild your rotors after a few race weekends. Stretch and inspect the orings. If they show cracks, you may need to rebuild them in shorter intervals. If they are perfect, try longer intervals. Once i fixed the ducting on my car, my interval was 4 to 6 weekends, and i never found a brittle oring again.
Hubs - with good brake ducting properly ported to the hub (center of rotor), they actually last a really long time
gas tank - allow internal modifications. For right handed tracks the fuel goes to the left saddle and you get fuel starvation with more than 1/2 tank. If you ever want to run an enduro you're screwed with the stock set-up regardless of the track configuration. I recommend a pump in the bottom of the left saddle pumping fuel directly into the main pump bucket. This is no real advantage in sprint races, but it makes the car better. It could allow some of you to get closer to minimum weight though (5 less gallons = 40 lbs)
wheels - spec minimum weight or one peice only, not both. I recommend minimum weight.
Alignment - spec a cheap and simple adjustable upper control arm, spec a larger accentric bolt for each rear adjuster, and spec 2.5 degrees max camber. This fixes the cars that aren't quite straight and square without giving a significant advantage to those that buy the arms.
Diff - ugh. Allow either nismo or wavetrac. I know nissan made a deal with wavetrac but honestly wavetrac did not hold up their end of the deal. I think the wavetrac has potential to be slightly faster, but if you need to add a cooler, it is not best for those cost conscious folks.
Clutch master- they go bad, but they are very easy to replace. The pedal will stay on the floor. You can pull it back up with your toe and pump it to get you through the race (s). Keep a spare. Spec a braided line and add heat sheilding to the hose by the clutch to reduce the heat.
Back bumper. I beleive the biggest benefit to the nismo package is the diffuser in the rear bumper. Those bumpers are pricey. The class should allow cutting the lower section of a non-nismo rear bumper or screwing it to the bottom of the aluminum bumper to eliminate the natural parachute.
Interior - the rules are grey. Allow removal of all plastic parts of the interior except the dash. It's a fire hazard.
Bypass the ac. That's weight in the front which is in the wrong place.
Ballast - allow weight to be put anywhere by any "safe" means. That way people don't have to get creative getting weight toward the back putting "stock" parts back. I used to carry a 75lb stock muffler until the brackets broke. It would have been better to bolt lead to the floor in the back. I don't get the purpose of telling people where they allowed to mount it.
That's all i can think of. Enjoy the class folks. The car is fast, durable, forgiving, a blast to drive, and low maintenance. Feel free to email me as i'm always happy to share advice. Once i'm well enough to get the car out of the trailer i'll be posting all the surviving bits and spares in the for sale section cheap as dirt within the next month or two. That will include the coil-overs and wavetrack to get one of you budget minded newbies going!
Cheers and good luck!
Bill steinhoff car #l8 (upsidedown 87)
Last edited by laze1; Oct 2, 2012 at 02:40 AM.
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
From: NC
Wow, I wondered what happened to the driver of the upside down Z!
Bill, thanks so much for sharing all of this - very helpful. I've never raced before and am about 1/2 way through my SpecZ build now (which I am enjoying) but sharing your experience is very helpful.
I hope you heal quickly!
Oh, and I'd be interested in a bargain Wavetrac
PT
Bill, thanks so much for sharing all of this - very helpful. I've never raced before and am about 1/2 way through my SpecZ build now (which I am enjoying) but sharing your experience is very helpful.
I hope you heal quickly!
Oh, and I'd be interested in a bargain Wavetrac
PT
Hey Guys,
I drove the orange Z noted in an earlier post. That was Great racing by the surviving Zs at the championship race. I watched it online while I wandered around the track in my truck. I could see this class getting to be competitive like Spec miata, but without as much drafting affect so its purely driver against driver
I'm going to take some time off from racing the Z. While it's still fresh in my mind, I wanted to share my thoughts to improve the car and the class, from a now unbiased source.
[.....]
Cheers and good luck!
Bill Steinhoff Car #L8 (upsidedown 87)
I drove the orange Z noted in an earlier post. That was Great racing by the surviving Zs at the championship race. I watched it online while I wandered around the track in my truck. I could see this class getting to be competitive like Spec miata, but without as much drafting affect so its purely driver against driver
I'm going to take some time off from racing the Z. While it's still fresh in my mind, I wanted to share my thoughts to improve the car and the class, from a now unbiased source.
[.....]
Cheers and good luck!
Bill Steinhoff Car #L8 (upsidedown 87)
Last edited by FastNotFurious; Oct 2, 2012 at 06:07 AM.
Have been following the thread, I am just a Autocross and track day guy and have been wondering what the general feeling is about the wavetrac vs what you might have had before going spec? Anyone?
Billstein87 thanks for your update, hope all goes well.
Billstein87 thanks for your update, hope all goes well.
There are many Diffs out there that are better suited for racing...and they DO NOT REQUIRE a diff cooler. My Carbonetics Diff was bullet-proof for 5 years of racing in PTB without a Diff cooler, and handled great...just sayin'
Last edited by laze1; Oct 2, 2012 at 02:52 PM.
Bill,
Glad you are on the mend. Thanks for the write up and for clearing up the use of the Nismo bumper and brake ducting. I posted a link to your writeup on the NASA Spec Z page too.
http://www.nasaforums.com/viewforum.php?f=90
Glad you are on the mend. Thanks for the write up and for clearing up the use of the Nismo bumper and brake ducting. I posted a link to your writeup on the NASA Spec Z page too.
http://www.nasaforums.com/viewforum.php?f=90
Last edited by jmark; Oct 3, 2012 at 12:15 PM.
Replacement wheel hub info:
Dug around the interwebs and found coupon code "APWPERCENT" for 10% off at Auto Parts Warehouse. I also called about the warranty, and one can purchase an extended 1, 3, or lifetime warranty, however, it does come with a 1-year warranty. When I prodded about enforcing the warranty, they indicated it had to be a manufacturing defect. Well, isn't it always a manufacturing defect? Point being, it's not likely we will be able to utilize any part of their warranty.
Figured I'd post in here and break the news. I'm officially making my jump to spec z. The car has been aat RDZ Motorsports in Danbury, CT getting prepped. I stated in a post earlier how small things started to go on the car. After being told by numerous people I need to cage the car and make it safer, I heeded their advice.
OG Racing came on board to support me in my vintage racing and they have jumped on board to help me with the z build. They supplied me a sparco halo seat, full mounting hardware, fire suppresion system, and the safety netting. I'm looking into data systems to see which one I would like the best.
The car has been stripped out and a custom cage will be going in. The builder knows my difficulty of ingress/egress. RDZ will be building me a special bracket to hold my clutch foot in place but something I can slip out of in a hurry if something happens.
Here is what I'm having done:
new wheel bearings
new master cylinders
abs will remain off as I don't want to run the risk of whats happened to the other z's
wheel studs
radiator
rebuilding of the torsen
diff cooler
braided brake lines
clutch line heat wrap
front sway bar
I will not be doing the suspension yet nor the wavetrac diff.
From what I've read and heard from other racers spec z guys and other NASA guys, I'm running competitve times with my stock set up. i want to run the car the way it is, then slowly start making changes.
I'll be at a few events next year and plan on running at the national champioships at Mid-Ohio next year.
See you at the track
OG Racing came on board to support me in my vintage racing and they have jumped on board to help me with the z build. They supplied me a sparco halo seat, full mounting hardware, fire suppresion system, and the safety netting. I'm looking into data systems to see which one I would like the best.
The car has been stripped out and a custom cage will be going in. The builder knows my difficulty of ingress/egress. RDZ will be building me a special bracket to hold my clutch foot in place but something I can slip out of in a hurry if something happens.
Here is what I'm having done:
new wheel bearings
new master cylinders
abs will remain off as I don't want to run the risk of whats happened to the other z's
wheel studs
radiator
rebuilding of the torsen
diff cooler
braided brake lines
clutch line heat wrap
front sway bar
I will not be doing the suspension yet nor the wavetrac diff.
From what I've read and heard from other racers spec z guys and other NASA guys, I'm running competitve times with my stock set up. i want to run the car the way it is, then slowly start making changes.
I'll be at a few events next year and plan on running at the national champioships at Mid-Ohio next year.
See you at the track
Figured I'd post in here and break the news. I'm officially making my jump to spec z. The car has been aat RDZ Motorsports in Danbury, CT getting prepped. I stated in a post earlier how small things started to go on the car. After being told by numerous people I need to cage the car and make it safer, I heeded their advice.
OG Racing came on board to support me in my vintage racing and they have jumped on board to help me with the z build. They supplied me a sparco halo seat, full mounting hardware, fire suppresion system, and the safety netting. I'm looking into data systems to see which one I would like the best.
The car has been stripped out and a custom cage will be going in. The builder knows my difficulty of ingress/egress. RDZ will be building me a special bracket to hold my clutch foot in place but something I can slip out of in a hurry if something happens.
Here is what I'm having done:
new wheel bearings
new master cylinders
abs will remain off as I don't want to run the risk of whats happened to the other z's
wheel studs
radiator
rebuilding of the torsen
diff cooler
braided brake lines
clutch line heat wrap
front sway bar
I will not be doing the suspension yet nor the wavetrac diff.
From what I've read and heard from other racers spec z guys and other NASA guys, I'm running competitve times with my stock set up. i want to run the car the way it is, then slowly start making changes.
I'll be at a few events next year and plan on running at the national champioships at Mid-Ohio next year.
See you at the track
OG Racing came on board to support me in my vintage racing and they have jumped on board to help me with the z build. They supplied me a sparco halo seat, full mounting hardware, fire suppresion system, and the safety netting. I'm looking into data systems to see which one I would like the best.
The car has been stripped out and a custom cage will be going in. The builder knows my difficulty of ingress/egress. RDZ will be building me a special bracket to hold my clutch foot in place but something I can slip out of in a hurry if something happens.
Here is what I'm having done:
new wheel bearings
new master cylinders
abs will remain off as I don't want to run the risk of whats happened to the other z's
wheel studs
radiator
rebuilding of the torsen
diff cooler
braided brake lines
clutch line heat wrap
front sway bar
I will not be doing the suspension yet nor the wavetrac diff.
From what I've read and heard from other racers spec z guys and other NASA guys, I'm running competitve times with my stock set up. i want to run the car the way it is, then slowly start making changes.
I'll be at a few events next year and plan on running at the national champioships at Mid-Ohio next year.
See you at the track
Your times are comparable on which tires? Remember, we have to run the BFG R1s. . .
Maybe see you at Nats next year, though I believe they are in UTAH in 2013.
Very Cool!
Let me know if I can be of any assistance!!!!
Let me know if I can be of any assistance!!!!
Figured I'd post in here and break the news. I'm officially making my jump to spec z. The car has been aat RDZ Motorsports in Danbury, CT getting prepped. I stated in a post earlier how small things started to go on the car. After being told by numerous people I need to cage the car and make it safer, I heeded their advice.
OG Racing came on board to support me in my vintage racing and they have jumped on board to help me with the z build. They supplied me a sparco halo seat, full mounting hardware, fire suppresion system, and the safety netting. I'm looking into data systems to see which one I would like the best.
The car has been stripped out and a custom cage will be going in. The builder knows my difficulty of ingress/egress. RDZ will be building me a special bracket to hold my clutch foot in place but something I can slip out of in a hurry if something happens.
Here is what I'm having done:
new wheel bearings
new master cylinders
abs will remain off as I don't want to run the risk of whats happened to the other z's
wheel studs
radiator
rebuilding of the torsen
diff cooler
braided brake lines
clutch line heat wrap
front sway bar
I will not be doing the suspension yet nor the wavetrac diff.
From what I've read and heard from other racers spec z guys and other NASA guys, I'm running competitve times with my stock set up. i want to run the car the way it is, then slowly start making changes.
I'll be at a few events next year and plan on running at the national champioships at Mid-Ohio next year.
See you at the track
OG Racing came on board to support me in my vintage racing and they have jumped on board to help me with the z build. They supplied me a sparco halo seat, full mounting hardware, fire suppresion system, and the safety netting. I'm looking into data systems to see which one I would like the best.
The car has been stripped out and a custom cage will be going in. The builder knows my difficulty of ingress/egress. RDZ will be building me a special bracket to hold my clutch foot in place but something I can slip out of in a hurry if something happens.
Here is what I'm having done:
new wheel bearings
new master cylinders
abs will remain off as I don't want to run the risk of whats happened to the other z's
wheel studs
radiator
rebuilding of the torsen
diff cooler
braided brake lines
clutch line heat wrap
front sway bar
I will not be doing the suspension yet nor the wavetrac diff.
From what I've read and heard from other racers spec z guys and other NASA guys, I'm running competitve times with my stock set up. i want to run the car the way it is, then slowly start making changes.
I'll be at a few events next year and plan on running at the national champioships at Mid-Ohio next year.
See you at the track
Figured I'd post in here and break the news. I'm officially making my jump to spec z. The car has been aat RDZ Motorsports in Danbury, CT getting prepped. I stated in a post earlier how small things started to go on the car. After being told by numerous people I need to cage the car and make it safer, I heeded their advice.
OG Racing came on board to support me in my vintage racing and they have jumped on board to help me with the z build. They supplied me a sparco halo seat, full mounting hardware, fire suppresion system, and the safety netting. I'm looking into data systems to see which one I would like the best.
The car has been stripped out and a custom cage will be going in. The builder knows my difficulty of ingress/egress. RDZ will be building me a special bracket to hold my clutch foot in place but something I can slip out of in a hurry if something happens.
Here is what I'm having done:
new wheel bearings
new master cylinders
abs will remain off as I don't want to run the risk of whats happened to the other z's
wheel studs
radiator
rebuilding of the torsen
diff cooler
braided brake lines
clutch line heat wrap
front sway bar
I will not be doing the suspension yet nor the wavetrac diff.
From what I've read and heard from other racers spec z guys and other NASA guys, I'm running competitve times with my stock set up. i want to run the car the way it is, then slowly start making changes.
I'll be at a few events next year and plan on running at the national champioships at Mid-Ohio next year.
See you at the track
OG Racing came on board to support me in my vintage racing and they have jumped on board to help me with the z build. They supplied me a sparco halo seat, full mounting hardware, fire suppresion system, and the safety netting. I'm looking into data systems to see which one I would like the best.
The car has been stripped out and a custom cage will be going in. The builder knows my difficulty of ingress/egress. RDZ will be building me a special bracket to hold my clutch foot in place but something I can slip out of in a hurry if something happens.
Here is what I'm having done:
new wheel bearings
new master cylinders
abs will remain off as I don't want to run the risk of whats happened to the other z's
wheel studs
radiator
rebuilding of the torsen
diff cooler
braided brake lines
clutch line heat wrap
front sway bar
I will not be doing the suspension yet nor the wavetrac diff.
From what I've read and heard from other racers spec z guys and other NASA guys, I'm running competitve times with my stock set up. i want to run the car the way it is, then slowly start making changes.
I'll be at a few events next year and plan on running at the national champioships at Mid-Ohio next year.
See you at the track
That's awesome news. Can't wait to see another Spec Z out there. Yea Nats are not at Mid Ohio next year =( They are at MMP in Utah. I'm not gonna make it to that one.
I think u have to have a certain amount of regional races to be eligible for Nats too.
I think u have to have a certain amount of regional races to be eligible for Nats too.