That is scary at that speed on a downhill session. I am glad that you saved it!

ABS CEL was on. Code: Rear Left ABS sensor signal irrational, something like that. I changed out the sensor recently, inspect and clean ABS ring, replace rear brake pads to some less aggressive pads. ( Didnt have the time to test each components 1 by 1) test it for 1 event and my car seems fine. However, I wasnt doing any heavy braking at all. I will see how it goes after a few events.

Does anyone know what kind of brake failure occurred for those flipped Zs a few posts ahead?

 

That was pretty much the feedback my buddy gave them. He said the 2010 ones would fall off and come back dramatically during a race. When that would happen, he said the car would get very slippery and just slide everywhere.

 

I am not 100%, but the orange car I am pretty sure had no pedal based on his speed where he went off, so I imagine he boiled the fluid due to overheating.

I am not sure what kind of ducting he was using, but the couple that I did look at were using the Nissan Motorsports kit that mounts under the car. I personally do not like that one. I just can't imagine it giving as much air flow to the brakes as having some kind of front mounted ducting.

 

Doesn't the Nismo Z front end have places where the air is directed towards the brakes?

 

That makes sense! Those dayum ABS wheel sensors are very sensitive to installation placement. When I changed my Diff out, I reinstalled the same ABS sensors and then had a hard ABS code. I took them both out, carefully wiped them off and reinstalled them, problem fixed. I have no idea what was the root cause.

Note: I run the Carbotech XP10 or XP12 in sprint races...same pad all around. When your brakes are working correctly, you should be able to run the same pads front and rear.

 

This is from the drivers FB page:

"In the keyhole. Brake pedal wouldn't move. Zero brakes."

So I don't think they boiled as he had a HARD pedal...


Thanks to all of you for your wishes

 

Is removing the ABS system completely a possibility?

I do remember you can unplug it under the hood, I think grey connecter on side of ABS block. Now, I wonder if this will change you brake bias at all? Not sure how the whole system works yet

 

Interesting....This may be naive to say, but I've never heard of a pedal going hard before. What would cause that? Pistons seizing up?

 

A loss of vacuum or power assist will do this as well. Usually is would make a hard pedal vs a non-moving pedal though. If the pedal won't move at all that usually means a frozen master cylinder piston or a broken pivot pin.

 

Kinda weird, but I think Jeremy the Spec Z Champ had to replace his Master Cyl just before the race...whatzup with that???

 

My vote with be "NO"...unless you are gonna replace everything with real race parts and manual bias valve. ABS does so much in a model car..hard to do away with it.

However, people do it ans seem to be happy...

 

In the 350, you can bypass the ABS and the car is still driveable. The thing that you have to be careful about though, is that there are some cars that are designed to use the ABS software to balance the mechanical brake bias on the car. Removing the ABS in some cars results in a very strong mechanical rear brake bias and in heavy braking zones can lead to the rear of the car passing the front of the car, which is not a good thing. The car that I am the most familiar with that does this is the BMW Z3, but there are others as well.

 

Brake issues suck, ICE Mode, hub deflection, kick back, worn/damaged seals, bad sensors... all possibilities and the only way to fix it is to make an educated guess and buy new tires through the process of elimination. Nothing will add time to the timer faster than no confidence in your brakes.

 

As I understand it, he had the clutch master and slave cylinder replaced after the clutch went away Friday. Happens with the HR's internal slave. Clark Crawford (#16) helped his crew do the swap and it seemed to work well enough on Sunday.

 

I was Just chatting with Rick a couple of weeks back and he mentioned that that engine had something like 30+ wins on it over multiple seasons of racing. Bad news for sure, but the fact it lasted that long it is a testament to how reliable the engine is with proper cooling.

 

Interesting point: A loss of vacuum or power assist will do this

 

I've had my brake pedal go hard a couple times before. It happens during a spin when I go 2 feet in. It was a very strange feeling, and I have no doubt it was the ABS system being completely confused with the situation. Basically, ABS was engaging while I'm doing a 360, and that's something it wasn't designed to deal with.

In my opinion, an ABS failure may involve one or more sensors that are reading wheel lockup when it may in fact may not be case. Then, it actuates the ABS pump causing pulsating relief of brake pressure. If the ABS system fails in the manner that confuses the module to think you're on ice, this would result in what would be a solid pedal, but virtually little slowdown. If this is what some of you posters refer to as "ice mode", then I agree with your assessment.

Try engaging ABS on ice, slippery pavement, or a dirt road. That pedal feels extra solid while the vehicle decelerates disproportionately to applied pedal pressure.

I've tried driving with the ABS module unplugged for about 1.5 years, but I didn't like it. I was flat-spotting my tires frequently, especially when they started falling off.

 

Ice mode allows full lock of the brakes, has it happen a couple times now. Last time a month ago it happened so fast, tires flat spotted to cord and off the track. Both times for me, no indication of ABS kicking in a all, just a firm pedal as with normal braking.

 

Just unplug or pull ABS Fuse makes brake bias changes heavily to the rear. I tried this on the track and it wasnt fun.

I have seen professional Race prep Z changed out the whole ABS system to a Bosch aftermarket system, w/ custom programming, fabrication, it costs over $10k.

The cheapest way I guess is to remove the ABS system and install a adjustable brake bias valve. I think I would rather flat spot the tires than crashing into the wall.

 

May I know what kind of tires you were running with the XP10? Will it be too strong for Nt-01?