New NASA Class for 2012: Spec Z
Congrats again John. It was nice meeting you and I enjoyed the beers and hanging out after the banquet. I had a great time this past weekend. I hope to make it down there again some time next year.
Not sure if I could turn out that, but I am shooting for 1:36's. I turned a 1:38.5. I am having one hell of a time getting through T2 and 3 quickly. I was all over the place through there. If I can iron that out that will put me into the mid 1:37's for sure. Then the rest of the time will have to be picked here and there.
Not sure if I could turn out that, but I am shooting for 1:36's. I turned a 1:38.5. I am having one hell of a time getting through T2 and 3 quickly. I was all over the place through there. If I can iron that out that will put me into the mid 1:37's for sure. Then the rest of the time will have to be picked here and there.
Saturday's Championship Race....I took it easy because all I had to do was FINISH the race. to be Champion...I had several opportunities to take and stay in the lead...but we had very heavy traffic of Big Bore Thunder cars blowing through...so I won the War and finished 2nd in this Battle.
So Marty...I have finally learned my lesson (until the next time I go Fk-ing crazy)
https://vimeo.com/54847875
So Marty...I have finally learned my lesson (until the next time I go Fk-ing crazy)
https://vimeo.com/54847875
Last edited by laze1; Dec 4, 2012 at 04:36 PM.
PM Wacoracer ....he should be able to help
Congrats, John! 
Does anyone know what the requirement is for the "Driver Championship" Award? http://www.nasaproracing.com/conting...%20Edition.pdf
I know you need 3 racers each day for the race day contingency from NISSAN, but I can't tell if that same requirement holds for the driver championship. Calls and emails to Nissan have gone without response of course.
Does anyone know what the requirement is for the "Driver Championship" Award? http://www.nasaproracing.com/conting...%20Edition.pdf
I know you need 3 racers each day for the race day contingency from NISSAN, but I can't tell if that same requirement holds for the driver championship. Calls and emails to Nissan have gone without response of course.
Those are some pretty good times at RA for sure.
Note
At PRI we saw the guy from Nissan Motorsports in pretty deep conversation w/ the Wave Trak guys. Pete from NE mentioned issues.
Also - we want to get involved w/ Jeremy to see if we can off at least some contingency. Hawk is already involved. We will try to get DBA involved as well.
Note
At PRI we saw the guy from Nissan Motorsports in pretty deep conversation w/ the Wave Trak guys. Pete from NE mentioned issues.
Also - we want to get involved w/ Jeremy to see if we can off at least some contingency. Hawk is already involved. We will try to get DBA involved as well.
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
From: Waco, Texas
Congrats, John!
Does anyone know what the requirement is for the "Driver Championship" Award? http://www.nasaproracing.com/conting...%20Edition.pdf
I know you need 3 racers each day for the race day contingency from NISSAN, but I can't tell if that same requirement holds for the driver championship. Calls and emails to Nissan have gone without response of course.
Does anyone know what the requirement is for the "Driver Championship" Award? http://www.nasaproracing.com/conting...%20Edition.pdf
I know you need 3 racers each day for the race day contingency from NISSAN, but I can't tell if that same requirement holds for the driver championship. Calls and emails to Nissan have gone without response of course.
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 8,623
Likes: 1,392
From: Aurora, Colorado
Does anyone know what the requirement is for the "Driver Championship" Award? http://www.nasaproracing.com/conting...%20Edition.pdf
I know you need 3 racers each day for the race day contingency from NISSAN, but I can't tell if that same requirement holds for the driver championship. Calls and emails to Nissan have gone without response of course.
I know you need 3 racers each day for the race day contingency from NISSAN, but I can't tell if that same requirement holds for the driver championship. Calls and emails to Nissan have gone without response of course.
Hey guys,
I had an idea and an update to share. I edited my earlier post to keep it in one place, but I will paste it below too
1) first, run the idiot light power to a brighter warning light.
2) Another option for the ABS concern is to put a switch to the ABS ground wire and . try to choose rear pads that give decent bias with the ABS turned off. (You should do that anyway) then, run the ABS as normal. If the light turns on during a race, flip the ABS switch off for the rest of the race. I really think this is a good fix.
3) Remove the airbags but Don't remove any of the airbag sensors or controller. Word on the street is that the controller is also a crash recorder, and the sensors tell it when to record.
Cheers and good luck in 2013,
Bill
I had an idea and an update to share. I edited my earlier post to keep it in one place, but I will paste it below too
1) first, run the idiot light power to a brighter warning light.
2) Another option for the ABS concern is to put a switch to the ABS ground wire and . try to choose rear pads that give decent bias with the ABS turned off. (You should do that anyway) then, run the ABS as normal. If the light turns on during a race, flip the ABS switch off for the rest of the race. I really think this is a good fix.
3) Remove the airbags but Don't remove any of the airbag sensors or controller. Word on the street is that the controller is also a crash recorder, and the sensors tell it when to record.
Cheers and good luck in 2013,
Bill
Hey, good to have you back!!! How you feeling now days?
Hey guys,
I had an idea and an update to share. I edited my earlier post to keep it in one place, but I will paste it below too
1) first, run the idiot light power to a brighter warning light.
2) Another option for the ABS concern is to put a switch to the ABS ground wire and . try to choose rear pads that give decent bias with the ABS turned off. (You should do that anyway) then, run the ABS as normal. If the light turns on during a race, flip the ABS switch off for the rest of the race. I really think this is a good fix.
3) Remove the airbags but Don't remove any of the airbag sensors or controller. Word on the street is that the controller is also a crash recorder, and the sensors tell it when to record.
Cheers and good luck in 2013,
Bill
I had an idea and an update to share. I edited my earlier post to keep it in one place, but I will paste it below too
1) first, run the idiot light power to a brighter warning light.
2) Another option for the ABS concern is to put a switch to the ABS ground wire and . try to choose rear pads that give decent bias with the ABS turned off. (You should do that anyway) then, run the ABS as normal. If the light turns on during a race, flip the ABS switch off for the rest of the race. I really think this is a good fix.
3) Remove the airbags but Don't remove any of the airbag sensors or controller. Word on the street is that the controller is also a crash recorder, and the sensors tell it when to record.
Cheers and good luck in 2013,
Bill
Hey guys, anybody need some used 18x8.5 ET 40 RPF1 Wheels in Silver.
I have found a racer who wants to sell 3x sets of used race wheels. So they will have the usual marks but in good shape. He is asking $680 for set of 4. (plus shipping) He ran 20 MM spacers with these over Brembos on a SCCA T2/T3 SCCA car.
I am thinking of buying one set for rain tires, and need 2 more to go with the 2x 18x10 I already have...
Anybody need just 2 wheels? (he doesn't want to split up the sets)
PM me if interested...
And NO, I don't think NASA will be changing the rules to allow 18x10 all around...or I wouldn't be buying these
I have found a racer who wants to sell 3x sets of used race wheels. So they will have the usual marks but in good shape. He is asking $680 for set of 4. (plus shipping) He ran 20 MM spacers with these over Brembos on a SCCA T2/T3 SCCA car.
I am thinking of buying one set for rain tires, and need 2 more to go with the 2x 18x10 I already have...
Anybody need just 2 wheels? (he doesn't want to split up the sets)
PM me if interested...
And NO, I don't think NASA will be changing the rules to allow 18x10 all around...or I wouldn't be buying these
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
From: Florida
New SCCA changes allow spec Z in T3
Looks like SCCA changed the T3 class specs (Jan 2013 changes) to allow the NASA Spec Z without doing any mods other than adding some ballast. Do you guys think it will be competitive? They allow some negative front camber but we can't do that and stay legal in NASA. I'm considering running it in both due to my work schedule and NASA schedule conflicts and since I already have an SCCA license
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 8,623
Likes: 1,392
From: Aurora, Colorado
Looks like SCCA changed the T3 class specs (Jan 2013 changes) to allow the NASA Spec Z without doing any mods other than adding some ballast. Do you guys think it will be competitive? They allow some negative front camber but we can't do that and stay legal in NASA. I'm considering running it in both due to my work schedule and NASA schedule conflicts and since I already have an SCCA license
It's the first year for the revised SCCA Touring classes. Between the 50# weight penalty for my HR-powered SZ and the SCCA Comp Board allowing adjustable UCAs (which would help with tire wear) I'm seriously considering it.
And I have had a goal of running a couple of SCCA event at Road Atlanta for some time now...maybe I will get to do that this year...
We have a bunch of guys the "cross over" in NASA-SE / SCCA...various classes. But can;t vouch for being "competitive"
We have a bunch of guys the "cross over" in NASA-SE / SCCA...various classes. But can;t vouch for being "competitive"
Looks like SCCA changed the T3 class specs (Jan 2013 changes) to allow the NASA Spec Z without doing any mods other than adding some ballast. Do you guys think it will be competitive? They allow some negative front camber but we can't do that and stay legal in NASA. I'm considering running it in both due to my work schedule and NASA schedule conflicts and since I already have an SCCA license
HEY...DID YALL SEE THIS!!!
https://my350z.com/forum/10004036-post1.html
Hard Crashed HR race car part out
https://my350z.com/forum/10004036-post1.html
Hard Crashed HR race car part out
I've been having a hard time tracking down parts for mine. I need a core support, radiator, pulley for the power steering pump, power steering pressure sensor, front bumper stay's, a radiator fan shroud, and maybe a few other odds and ends.
Think Nissan Motorsports can help at a reasonable price?
Think Nissan Motorsports can help at a reasonable price?
talk to Danny @ Nissan Unlimited - a forum sponsor
and i doubt Nissan will help much...but try them if you are a regestered racer...
NissanUnlimited
https://my350z.com/forum/members/131...unlimited.html
and i doubt Nissan will help much...but try them if you are a regestered racer...
NissanUnlimited
https://my350z.com/forum/members/131...unlimited.html
OK Kids...here is my 2013 info...no shaite...it is real...I just completed my setup :mrgreen:
Tires between 42-44 HOT front and rear...I play with these as needed (BFG R1 like high pressure)
Alignment front; -.15 deg (tow out) rear -.+15 deg (toe in)
Camber: front -1.8/2.0 rear -2.5 , would like to have more front camber and less rear camber...but...
Ride height: front 46MM from 1st thread to bottom of adjuster, rear 30MM from lowest possible setting
ASB: front: normally full soft, rear medium or full hard
Dampers: front: bump = 5 rebound=7
rear: bump=5 rebound=10
Note: I was running my car so low it was sitting on the bump-stops. I just raised my car up 30MM to the above settings, so I may be able to firm up the rear dampers as i go forward. I was having wicked snap-oversteer due to hitting the rear bump stops...lets see if raising the car resolves that nasty problem. I am now running ~1/2" BELOW STOCK ride height...I will see if I can lower it as the season goes forward...but the rear is gonna be higher than I really want...but...
Tires between 42-44 HOT front and rear...I play with these as needed (BFG R1 like high pressure)
Alignment front; -.15 deg (tow out) rear -.+15 deg (toe in)
Camber: front -1.8/2.0 rear -2.5 , would like to have more front camber and less rear camber...but...
Ride height: front 46MM from 1st thread to bottom of adjuster, rear 30MM from lowest possible setting
ASB: front: normally full soft, rear medium or full hard
Dampers: front: bump = 5 rebound=7
rear: bump=5 rebound=10
Note: I was running my car so low it was sitting on the bump-stops. I just raised my car up 30MM to the above settings, so I may be able to firm up the rear dampers as i go forward. I was having wicked snap-oversteer due to hitting the rear bump stops...lets see if raising the car resolves that nasty problem. I am now running ~1/2" BELOW STOCK ride height...I will see if I can lower it as the season goes forward...but the rear is gonna be higher than I really want...but...