edfc probably weighs 2lbs, how is that heavy? and the ability to adjust dampening from inside the car, how is that pointless?

personally I love my tein CS with EDFC

when the GF is riding with me I can turn it all the way up so suspension isnt so tight. which means she complains less

 

^ ya sorry i just dont think that way............

I never daily drove my Z.........so my thoughts are all track.....

Despite weight, running wires, and playing with settings while on city streets...seems moot to me......

-J

 

I appreciate the input Jason. I am torn between the KW's and the Tanabe's. I am not mechanically inclined(and I don't have a garage) and therefor dont think I could make adjustments to the coilovers themselves. Having a controller inside to adjust dampening makes more sense to me. Do you think it would be that much of a waste?

If I get the KW's I would probably get sway bars too. Is that a bad idea?

Anyone have more input as to whether the KW's or the Tanabe Pro 5's are more comfortable on the street?

 

wooh wait, just to be clear, all that does is adjust dampening/rebound, if you want to mess with ride height, or spring preload because the car is too bouncy, etc.......u will have to take it somewhere to physically get adjusted........

and at that, those electronics only adjust dampening, which is easily done with the **** on top of the suspension........please review post#15

-J

 

I know you can't adjust ride height with Edfc/teas. I thought you had to take it to a shop(I don't have The tools or garage) to adjust the dampening/rebound because you hce to take out the panels and remove the sway bar.

 

NO, adjusting the damping is just turning the ***** on top........or the extenders on the back....did you read post 15??


getting sway bars does nothing for adjusting the actual coilovers, adjustable sways do different things were not discussing now..

-J

 

Sweet! Thanks for the help....I guess I'm just kinda confused about the "layout" of coilovers. I'll do some more research

 

yes, seems like you should read the first two pages again.......print them out, and walk your car, flashlight the components and make sure it all makes sense to you....

-J

 

oh its worse for the G's, our rears are sealed up so adjusting means dropping them down for adjustments. partially why I appreciate the EDFC

 

Sweet... I understand this more now. So the front's look like they are easy as hell to adjust. The rears may be a little more difficult. So pretty much I have to get extenders(I don't think KW has them) or drill a hole so I can reach the adjustment ****? Also to reach the metal part of the rear strut bar I just pull off the cover?(I don't wanna break anything lol). Since I'm on GF210's and it lowers the rear 1.2" and the front 1" will I have problems with front camber if I go down to say 1.2"-1.4"? I'm assuming yes, but I just want to make sure.


I saw that you like the Kinetic A-Arms, would you recommend those to someone who doesn't track/do their own adjustments?
One more thing... Will the KW's need to have the stud contact issue?(Don't know if you would know)

Thanks for all the help Jason!

 

yes, but i prefer the drilled hole and allen t handle, as the extenders that come with nearly all the coilovers are weak sauce attachments and work like crap, break, etc..

yes, just pull and wiggle...

Yes, the lower you go, the more negative camber you will get.....so if you go that much lower i woul suspect you will be at -2.0 for sure or a bit more.

see how your front camber is all thats out! getting front upper arms is what you need to get your camber back given all other things stay the same...

yes, their quick adjustment feature is nice for racing, but not only for racing, heck they make it easy for the normal joe to get alignment done at any shop with them as well..........so its win win despite their actual use track or daily..

personally, i wouldnt know.........not till u purchased them and measured the front coilover stud lenght and compared..............try pm others that have them and see what you find.......or place washers under the strut bar, etc..



-J

 

can you run true coilovers with OEM spring bucket lower rear arm or do i have to replace them with those toe arms?

 

You can keep the spring bucket, but toe arms are preferable for better adjustments, and they dont "slip out of spec"

 

^ exactly..toe arms can be paired with lock out washers and no more slipping egg shaped "eccentric" washers will be used..

get it?
-J

 

haha, those toe arms look way much better than oem spring buckets but don't wanna spend another close to 300 bucks lol

 

Jason-
Ichiba or Kinetix A-Arms?
(this is directed at anyone as well)

 

Kinetix hands down!!!

Ill explain better tomorrow/next time i have time to type it out as to why.....

-J

 

ok, i have been reading a lot on these boards recently since i am thinking about getting a Z and everyone seems to quiver anytime camber and lowering is mentioned. I'm coming from the 240 world and -2.0 is really not that much camber at all for front wheels. Maybe i am reading into this all wrong, but can anyone explain to me what a standard Z drifter would run for front and rear camber? i was thinking something around:

-3.0 ~ -4.0 in the front
-1.5 ~ -2.5 in the rear

why is it on that printout that his car hasnt even hit -2.0 yet and it is screaming with a bright red color like his front suspension is dying?

im not trying to come off as a negative person here, just trying to inquire a little. i figured that the Z's would be really similar to the S-Chassis' but if they arent, im down to learn all the new info i can.

 

So I read most of the first 20 or so posts for this thread.

Just to make sure what I'm understanding is correct...

I am going with GR2 shocks and Tein H-tech springs and will use OEM spring bucket.. that means I don't need rear camber arms correct? Since the bucket acts as a rear camber arm. Do I need something different, like different bolts/eccentric washers or is my drop not going to be significant enough that the OEM bucket washers can't adjust that far?

I understand the only option to correct camber in the front are upper control arms. I'm debating on dropping the extra $320 or not...


thanks

 

Correct

I would recommend either buying new toe bolts, like these: http://splparts.com/store/product-info.php?pid115.html

Or get an eccentric lockout kit and buy these: http://splparts.com/store/product-info.php?pid27.html

If you are totally against buying true style coilovers then your best option would be number 2. Anytime you run a configuration that involves toe bolts you run the risk of them slipping and throwing your car out of alignment if you run the car hard.