Did i not say `i was reading` the part of the lock out washers?????
Let me say it again then..

I was reading the beginning of the thread where it talks about the washers!
And I`m still a bit confused. Do the arms usually come with lock out washers? Or are they purchased separate? I may have read past the part explainging it and didnt notice when i was READING threw the section.

Thank you.

 

dude, i think he was talking about: froztyy. At least that's how i read it.

For the lock out washers, you are talking about the SPL's that replace the eccentric bolts and washers? If you replace them with the SPL's then you will only have the adjustment of the camber rod instead of worrying about the washers. I don't have them yet, but i need to get my hands on a set while i have the subframe out during the coil install (i'm also installing the Whiteline solid subframe bushes and the SPL solid diff mounts).

You don't NEED them, but they make things less of a headache from what i gather. Anyone back me up on this?

Hope it helps.

 

what are the benefits of replacing them? im planning on dropping the car 2". I have stock tie rods now. will i be ok , do the stock tie rods go bad?

 

Thanks DK,

I`ll just get them when i upgrade all my bushing as well.

 

You'll be fine with stock rods, depending on the age of the car. I have a 2004 touring and the guy before me put the Eibach springs on. What got me into replacing them was that there was a clunking noise from the front passenger side of the car that ended up being the lower control arm bushing at the mount. Also went to get an alignment and that side wheel could be moved about a half inch either way when the wheel was locked.

the tein inner rods just give you the benefit of more steering angle IF you want to use the insert... but you don't have to. It is just easier to replace them with the front in the air for the coilover install.

LMK if you need pics, i'll look for mine to post in the mean time

 

SPL outer, they are correctable for bumpsteer. Basically you can change the angle of your tie rod, with the proper angle you will have less bumpsteer and it will not wear out as fast.

 

Well then read this:

https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...ml#post8293615


Your original question has been answered

 

Hey guys, Quick question here. My car is lowered but nothing extreme. Im on oem 18's.

My question is on harsh roads with sudden deep drops or bumps on the road my car seems as if its bottoming out.. idk if its my tires hitting the inner fenders plastic part or the actual bottom if the car.. how do all of the hell-flush guys etc cope with this issue? certain adjustments on the coilovers itself?
I have gr+'s true style, adjusted 9 clicks from soft..

Thanks

 

Pay to play as the saying goes. Youre going to scrape and rub every now and again. Stiffer springs may help.

 

Remember, good looks usually mean difficult personality and high maintenance. The roads are getting so bad here my next street car will have rally tarmac setup with lots of suspension travel.

 

lol yeah Dallas has a lot of concrete roads that are a bit uneven and not nice as tarmac...
the reason i asked is because I'm concerned on damaging some extremely bad.. that bottoming out sound is scary as ****..

 

I have a quick suspension question.

My 03 350z with 75K miles is lowered on Hotchkis springs and rear spring perches cut about 0.5 inch. Other than Hotchkis sways, camber arms, and toe bolts, the rest of the suspension is stock. My Z seems a lot bumpier than it used to. If I hit a rough section on the intersection it will just bounce constantly.

I'm not sure whether I should try replacing struts first or replacing bushings. Thoughts? If bushings would be worth a shot, which bushings are most likely to help the problem? Thanks.

 

How long do shocks usually last, and how long do they last with aftermarket springs?

 

I've got an 03 350z with 80k miles, I just replaced all the bushings with ES poly bushings in the front, subframe, differential and rear control arms, it made a world of difference. But based on your car bouncing, you need to replace the shocks first, they are blown. If you can do both, I would highly recommend replacing the front compression and control arms and the subframe and differential bushings. The car will feel like it's brand new.

 

Thanks for the recommendation. Tokico blues will be here Friday and I will inspect bushings when I have the car apart. Heard compression arm bushings are the first to go in the front and control arm bushings in the rear.

Did you find that your ride got any rougher, stiffer with the Energy bushings?

 

I'm running the tokico blues also. The ride with the ES bushings is a lot stiffer versus stock, but I can live with the stiffness, considering that the car is more stable. It also helps with braking and acceleration. You don't get the brake dive and the acceleration squat. If you're lowered, your compression arms are probably shot. If you replace the bushings in the front, Z1 motorsports sells a front suspension kit that will fix all of the bushings in the front.

http://www.z1motorsports.com/350_g35...oducts_id=5122

My rear control arm bushings were fine but since I had purchased the whole kit, I went ahead and replaced them as well.

 

I had been eyeballing those kits from Z1. Thanks for the info.

 

Compression arm bushing probably goes first , but the lca is very common too. No suspension bushings in the rear are known to fail but the diff mounting bushing fail all time

 

Great guide, but due to edits and time passing, i have a couple of confirmation questions....

This is all for just a lowering of the car on springs (maybe shocks) between .75 and 1.5 inches.


1) You need camber arms front and rear? correct?

2) The rear toe bolt you need (SPC) is obviously crap and slips, what alternatives do we have (keeping costs down)


Thanks.

 

1) Less than an 1.5" drop, you are probably okay without front camber arms. Less than 0.75" rear, you are probably okay also. Any more and you'll want rear camber arms. What I did was lower my Z and get an alignment. When the rear couldn't be aligned within specs, I purchased rear camber arms and installed a couple weeks later and got realigned.

2) http://www.350zhatchshocksandmore.co...%20Washers.htm