Blue_Z

iTrader: (6)

ok, i have less than 300 on the new motor and i checked my oil level for the first time today. It's been sitting in the parking lot for the last 6 hours so it was a fairly accurate reading.

The dipstick measured at 11mm!! Remember this is less than 300 miles.

One thing I don't know is how much oil was in it when they gave it to me. So i'm going to monitor it from here and see if it drops any. But wow..

Blue_Z

iTrader: (6)

nevermind, I did a search and found my answer. It is most likely similar to this experience..

https://my350z.com/forum/engine-driv...ml#post5789120

https://my350z.com/forum/5861808-post3130.html

Zidane

Had the dealer start the OC test this afternoon. He said my drain plug was a little loose and wet so that might have been the cause. We'll see in 1k miles!

usmanasif

iTrader: (4)

Wow. A lot has changed since I last posted in this thread last year. I had no idea the TSB has been revised! Kudos to ZeeForce and others for keeping this thread so perfectly updated!

I have gone through the new TSB and can't tell what the difference is compared to the original one. Any ideas?

As a side note, would someone please offer confirmation of my understanding below?

Looking at the new TSB, it appears that me changing the oil at home is sufficient for the dealer to record their initial reading. They DO NOT need to change the oil themselves before beginning the consumption period. Correct? I am basing it off of page 6 of the new TSB where it says (pertinent portion in red):

14. Check service records for the last time the engine oil was filled.
NOTE: For the purposes of this bulletin, the following documentation for oil level
checked and filled will be accepted.
⇒ Repair / work order from any Nissan dealer showing the vehicle mileage and
indicating service for “check and refill oil level”, or “oil and filter change”.

So I can change the oil and filter at home, bring in the car, have them check the level, note the mileage on the car, and leave?

Again, thanks for the wealth of information! This thread is a goldmine.

Nismo Z

iTrader: (3)

im sure this question was answered in this thread but my car is currently at the dealership getting the V2 motor installed, now the question is how do i know im getting the right motor? is their a serial number on the motor itself? or how can i tell by looking at the motor to see if i did get the v2 motor with the serial number of 10102-AC7MZ, thanks guys! i hope this motor solves all oil problems

usmanasif

iTrader: (4)

I would say ask to see the crate the motor came in to make sure the correct part# is on there. It may be too late for that now since your engine is already being put in, but I would at least ask for it.

thekinn

iTrader: (18)

I wasn't sure which thread to post this in.. Here is the oil analysis from the first 3 oil changes on my V2. A brief summary..

All oil changes were performed by me. 5 qts of Valvoline 5w30 conventional, new Mobil1 oil filter on each change (except Nissan OEM filter on first 225 miles - also obviously contained oil from dealer said to be Valvoline 5w30 conventional)

0-225 miles. Dealer said they idled the engine for enough time to determine it was solid and not leaking. 5 mile test drive by dealer. I completely babied the car to the 225 mile mark. Probably did not break 3k RPMs. NO hard acceleration - I pissed many people off by accelerating so slow. I did not exceed 50 mph. Varied RPMs at all times, no cruise control, tried to always be aware of varying speed by a few mph if traffic was flowing steady - would gently switch gears up and down if needed to also help vary the RPMs. No engine braking. Oil/filter change at 225 miles.

225-1200 miles. Continued to completely baby the car up to the 1200 mile mark. RPMs did not exceed 4k. NO hard acceleration (more pissed off people behind me, received a few middle fingers, a few honks, quite amusing). Any increase to 3.9k RPMs was done at a gentle pace. Varying speed. Still no highway driving, however I did on occasion get to around 60mph - staying under 4k RPMs. No engine braking... same method as first 225 miles. I did notice a small drop in oil level and added a little.

1200-1505 Finally able to rev over 4k rpms. I did so at a slow pace. Still no hard acceleration, but I did gradually increase RPMs past 4k during these few hundred miles. I do not recall redlining. Oil/Filter Change @ 1505 miles.

1505-2662 miles. Ahhh.. hard acceleration and 'normal' driving. All restrictions lifted (I did still vary my speed, never used cruise yet) Enough babying this *****, it's time to put you to the real test. Four 15minute open-track day sessions, and 10 runs at the 1/4 mile included during this interval (I suck.. 14.4 was my best time during a 90+ humid day). No drop in oil on the dipstick. Oil/filter changed at 2662 miles.

Here is the report -

Nismo Z

iTrader: (3)

i just got my car back and the V2 feels a lot smoother than the V1 iono if it's in my head or not but i definitely feel a difference even though im taking it easy for the first 1200 miles

Derek07

iTrader: (1)

I am currently going through the OC test (Future Nissan in Roseville), have to go back in Monday to show the loss. Tailpipes are black and thick with soot, my measurements are well into the "no good" area....shouldn't be too much trouble from here to get the new motor, just hope it holds up as well.

Thanks to everyone who struggled early on with this issue, makes it much smoother for us with the same problems now.

rickosae

380 mi on new V2 and zero oil loss

other perceived benefits
1) Smoother
2) no pinging under load in low rpms
3) no valvetrane noise at startup till oil pressure enables

Derek07

iTrader: (1)

Dealer wants another OC test run....test #2 underway now. Its eating oil, guess they just need to document it further....hope it gets done quickly.

Mkriebs

iTrader: (1)

Just checked my oil... looks to be down about 3/4 from the H line. this would qualify it... right? The oil was changed right before I bought it, about 1200 miles ago.

thekinn

iTrader: (18)

You caught me in a good mood. From the first page of this thread -

dkorr

iTrader: (3)

they did confirm it was consuming beyond 8mm of dipstick oil... so they replaced the engine... but what's the difference between the 06 VQ and the new one they replaced it with? I asked the service rep but he told me they put in a new 07' engine... but that makes no sense at all....

cheshirecat79

iTrader: (9)

The engine was indeed re-engineered in '07, so he is kind of right. However, it is not the new HR engine.

It's kind of a mystery, but most people believe that it's the same old engine but with revised rings.

dkorr

iTrader: (3)

maybe its the break-in period, but it almost feels like its sluggish... and smell of burnt oil...

Mkriebs

iTrader: (1)

Now, is that the acceptable limit? Like, if it stays above that then its good, anything below that is bad?

dkorr

iTrader: (3)

it has to go beyond 8mm (or 1/3 of the way down) within 1,500 miles... the thing is they tape the dipstick and drain plug so they know if its been tampered with... if they find that its been tampered with, they restart the OC test... they're really strict with this b/c they're don't want every 06 owner off the street claiming they have OC problems...

as for my V2 engine i'm just started breaking it in (under 4K rpm for 1,200mi)... it feels like the original, maybe a little sluggish.

MrCrispy

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for all the info posted in this thread. It's helped a lot!

As to my story - I bought a '06 revup in February with 5,000 mi on it. For the first two months it was burning oil at a rate of about 4 quarts per 500 miles of city driving! There may have been some other issues on that rate, but it was obnoxious. However, after an oil change and some highway driving, it seems to be burning a little 1 quart per 1,000 mi now. Just finished up the third OC test today, and a new V2 is on order and I should be getting it swapped in next week. I really hope this fixes the issue.

06CPV35

^ Wow...surprised they made you go through three OC tests. G/L with your swap.